Tre Bicchieri and Due Bicchieri Rossi are the flagships of Vini d'Italia. A review that embraces small productions along with prestigious best sellers, involving the finest labels tasted by our experts: in this new monthly column we will take you on the journey of our tasting notes.
Vinicola Arno is the brainchild of Micheal and Maria, he originally from Emilia Romagna, she from Portugal's Douro Valley. In 2017 they decided to acquire a vineyard and make their own winery in Mombercelli, a small town between Asti and Nizza Monferrato. Among the vineyards located in Castelnuovo Calcea and Asti, there are also 75-year-old vines that give rise to grape varieties such as Nascetta, Sauvignon and, of course, Barbera.
The fascinating Nizza Lorella '18 shows intense aromas of sweet spices and black berries, with a pulpy, fresh and long palate.
It's with great affection that we say goodbye to Marcello Monzio Compagnoni, who passed away at the age of 54 last December. In 1995, Compagnoni had moved from his native Valcalepio to Franciacorta, where he founded a modern, well-equipped winery, following through on a passion for the world of Metodo Classico bubbly. The 17-hectare vineyard surface gives rise to the wines that bear his name.
This year we especially appreciated the Franciacorta Brut Cuvée alla Moda, a blend of Chardonnay (80%) and Pinot Nero (20%). It opens intense on notes of yeast, almond and toasted hazelnut. The palate is rich and pulpy, with creamy, measured prickle, and an expansive, harmonious finish.
Cesarini Sforza, now part of Cavit, is looking to bolster the already strong image of the brand while developing the character of their sparkling wines. The only goals it shares with the parent company concern the commercial side of things, as the winery wants to be a distinct and autonomous producer. The cellar, situated in southern Trento (in what's considered the hub of regional sparkling wine production), has now entrusted oenological management to Andrea Buccella and reduced its range of lively Trento DOCs, focusing on the most prestigious selections.
The Nature Noir '15 is intriguing and absolutely precise in the texture of its bubbles, as well as in its forthright gustatory complexity.
When it comes to Bolzano's wine, this large Caldaro cooperative is a leader. Over 600 families are involved in the cultivation of small patches of land under the wise direction of staff led by Andrea Moser, making for a mosaic of viticulture and cultivars, mainly in the Oltradige area. Further parcels can be found in the Bolzano basin, the Eisack valley and areas further south.
The vineyard that gives life to this wine is located in Pianizza di Sopra, at an altitude of 500 meters (1,640 feet) with eastern exposure. You can breathe elegance in the fragrant aromatic profile that caresses yellow peach, herbs and white flowers. The palate is soft and juicy, thanks to the sapidity that enhances the taste.
The Adami brothers' winery is among those producers that have contributed to establishing Prosecco as a quality wine throughout the world. As often happens in the area, the winery doesn't cover a particularly large area, but its properties do occupy some of the best positions in the appellation, including Rive di Colbertaldo (with the historic Giardino vineyard) and Torri di Credazzo (Rive di Farra di Soligo). Theirs are wines marked by harmony and aromatic breadth.
The Giardino '20 proves exemplary. It's a wine that conveys all the playfulness of Prosecco, wrought of fresh, enticing aromas, lightness of flavor, sapidity and balanced sugars.
Even after 60 years, Monte del Frà is showing no signs of slowing down. Having one of the province's largest wine-growing estates doesn't hurt, nor does the fact that it reaches into Verona's main appellations. The producer's heart still beats in Custoza, but more and more attention is being paid to Valpolicella, interpreted here with the light and sensitive hand long associated with Monte del Frà. The ship is in the capable hands of Marica, Silvia and Massimo, with fathers Eligio and Claudio (respectively) still making their presence felt as well.
Custoza Ca 'del Magro '19 is a wine that reminisces on ripe yellow fruit, with floral notes and a burst of saffron. In the mouth, the balanced richness of its acidity and its characteristic sapidity are striking.
Castello di Querceto has been owned by the François family since the late 19th century. Today Alessandro and Maria Antonietta are at the helm. They're supported by their children Lia and Simone, who embody the future of a winery known for having left its mark on the appellation. The estate is situated in the Greve in Chianti subzone, overlooking the Aretino, an area characterized by an almost continental climate. It's a privileged position, considering the current situation - one that allows the producer to craft wines that are increasingly characterful, fragrant and light.
The Chianti Classico Ris. '18 performed well, offering up balanced aromas amidst fruity hints and toasty nuances, as well as a nice note of flint to top things off. In the mouth it's long and reactive, with spirited tannins underlining its character.
The medieval village of Artimino hosts the striking Medici residence of Villa La Ferdinanda, an integral part of the estate. The property, which has been in the hands of the Olmo family (famous for the bicycle brand that bears their name) for about 40 years, spans two appellations: Carmignano and Chianti Montalbano. Traditional Tuscan grapes are cultivated, but there's also Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. This last is now considered traditional in Carmignano, as it was introduced by Caterina de 'Medici as early as the 16th century.
The excellent Carmignano Riserva Grumarello 2016 proves rich in aromas of plum, undergrowth and pepper. On the palate it's velvety, with a fine, silky tannic weave and a nice, sapid and mineral finish on whiffs of pencil lead.
Stefano Antonucci isn't used to being satisfied, it's not really in his character to settle for just 'making a living'. This doesn't, however, mean that he overdoes things, but rather takes them one step at a time. This time it's the cellar's turn: the construction of a new, ultra-modern facility with a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside. Streamlining works were also carried out so as to better manage production. The range is, as always, quite broad, with some selections now considered great classics of regional enology.
The Verdicchio Stefano Antonucci hits the mark in the 2022 Vini d'Italia guide with the 2019 vintage: polished, dynamic, juicy and deep are some of the best adjectives to describe it.
Three brothers, Giovanni, Domenico and Vincenzo Barba, own vineyards in Colle Morino, Casal Thaulero and Vignafranca. They inherited the winery set up by Cavaliere Luigi in the 1950s, when a new phase of direct management began after a past in sharecropping. Their grapes are vinified at the operating base in Scerne di Pineto: Montepulciano, Trebbiano and Pecorino are transformed into wines with a modern style that still manage to retain their varietal nature.
A good example is the Colline Teramane Yang '19. Medicinal herbs, balsamic nuances, pepper, earth, black olive, blueberries and pencil lead make up this red's multifaceted aromatic suite, while the palate showcases creamy tannins supported by a pleasant, sapid sensation.
Often abused or used inappropriately, in this case the term 'heroic viticulture' is obligatory if we are to describe the work done by Marisa Cuomo and Andrea Ferraioli at Furore. Now supported on a permanent basis by their children Dora and Raffaele, theirs is a continuous struggle with space and rocks: terraced ridges of pergola vineyards overlooking the Amalfi Coast. A dozen micro-plots are needed to obtain just a few thousand bottles, but the sacrifice is worth the global success of wines such as the Fiorduva, a mythic blend of Ripoli, Fenile and Ginestra.
And the Fiorduva once again earns Furore a Tre Bicchieri. The usual multifaceted nose (straw and hay, spicy nuances, candied ginger, citron peel) anticipates a mouth that's creamy, yes, but more confident and graceful than with certain past versions; a balanced acid tension carries Mediterranean flavor and warmth into a long finish.
The winery, founded by Giuseppe Montanaro in a 15th-century masseria, is situated in the heart of the Terra delle Gravine Park at over 200 meters elevation. The surrounding vineyard, designed by landscape architect Fernando Caruncho and cultivated organically, sees the presence of a rather large variety of grapes, from traditional varietes, such as Primitivo and Malvasia, to Merlot and Chardonnay. Their wines, which are marked by good quality and character, pursue a style focused on varietal expression and pleasantness.
The Aglianico '17 exhibits nice texture and freshness, with floral and black fruit notes followed by nuances of Mediterranean scrub and a long, juicy finish.
In just over 30 years, Cantine Due Palme has become one of the most important producers in the whole Puglia. Today they winery avails itself of about 1,200 contributing members who operate on 2,500 hectares of vineyards in the provinces of Brindisi, Taranto and Lecce. The result is about 17 million bottles per year, divided into a range of about 40 wines, mainly reds from native grapes. Theirs are wines characterized by good technical craftsmanship, reliability and a classic Mediterranean profile.
Another nice performance for the 1943 Del Presidente, a blend of Primitivo and Aglianico. The 2019 features nuances of black berries adorned by balsamic nuances on the nose, while the palate exhibits notable structure, but also juice and length.
Officially established in 2011, the Insalata family's winery draws on a tradition dating back to 1939. The estate vineyards are situated in the Gioia del Colle appellation and the Itria Valley, though the family also draws on the support of trusted growers with whom they collaborate throughout the year, monitoring the vineyards. The result is a range of over 20 wines, technically well made, modern, plucky and characterized by nice freshness.
The well-made Gioia del Colle Primitivo Fanova '19 impresses with its aromas of cherry jam and mulberry on the nose, while the palate is clear and focused, consistent, with nice freshness and length.
The winery was founded by architect Giuseppe Muzzillo with his sons Eugenio and Francesca, professors at the University of Naples, respectively of Philosophy and Landscape Architecture. Its production has always been among the most interesting ones in a territory with viticulture potential such as Donnici. Among the recent novelties, longer macerations, and the old barriques replaced by new and larger barrels. Wines have benefited from it since the onset.
L'Estremo is a pure Magliocco, already thick in its aromatic profile which plays between nuances of ripe black berries, sweet spices and toasted sensations. On the palate the tannin makes itself felt, forming the framework for a fragrant taste.
