Timorasso is one of those wines that could be described as a "red dressed as white," an overused expression used to describe white wines with a particular and abundant structure. The area where the grape is cultivated, in Piedmont, borders Lombardy, Emilia, and Liguria: the Colli Tortonesi, in the Curone, Grue, Ossona valleys, and in Val Borbera, thanks to clear clayey soils with a good limestone component. It prefers sunny exposures sheltered from the winds, which allow for the best ripening of the grapes. The Timorasso vine has always shown poor adaptability to climatic conditions different from those of the original region, confirming its strong territoriality.
Precisely because of these characteristics, over the centuries, it has been slowly abandoned in favor of more productive and less delicate red berry grapes such as Barbera and Croatina. Timorasso would probably have disappeared from the Italian ampelographic map if Walter Massa and other courageous and tenacious winemakers from Tortona had not decided to revive it, betting on its great potential.
Timorasso gives rise to a wine of great structure, capable of developing inimitable aromas. With brilliant and golden colors, yellow scents of flowers and fruits, citrusy hints, on the palate, it is often lively and sapid in the most convincing expressions, with broad sips capable of telling a territory that the producers, around fifty, interpret and practice with very different vineyard and cellar techniques. The marked acidity gives the wine freshness and great longevity. Bottle aging favors the evolution of Timorasso towards more elegant and complex tertiary aromas, with a prevalence of mineral and hydrocarbon tones. Do not hesitate to "forget" a few bottles in the cellar for about ten years. Time plays in favor of Timorasso, which will give you great emotions.
The greatest hope is to be able to identify a more direct and clear identity on the palate, while maintaining the nuances that the origin of the grapes can tell. This unified character of intentions and paths aimed at marking a "territorial identity" without taboos could represent a solid basis on which to launch the future of a great denomination still little aware of its richness and expressive uniqueness.
The best value Timorassos
In the list we propose, we have selected the Timorassos available in wine shops and online shops for less than £20 among those awarded Two Red Glasses, having reached the final stage during the tastings for the Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia guide.
Caespes 2021 by Ezio Poggio is complex but also joyful with its scents of peach and mint, while the palate is fresh but not lacking in structure. Archetipo has even greater complexity, thanks to hints of flint and chlorophyll. A sapid palate, of great structure and long persistence, concludes a great tasting. The winery led today by brothers Ezio and Mary Poggio was founded in 2003, but the first wines are from 2008. These years have been used to plant vineyards and request the denomination for Timorasso in Val Borbera, a rather decentralized valley, located southwest of Tortonese. The first harvest with the awaited denomination - the subzone Terre di Libarna was created - is from 2011. In addition to Timorasso, also produced in the Spumante typology (Charmat method and classic method), the winery cultivates Barbera and Bonarda.
- Colli Tortonesi Terre di Libarna Timorasso Caespes 2021 - Ezio Poggio
- Colli Tortonesi Terre di Libarna Timorasso Archetipo 2020 - Ezio Poggio
Derthona 2022 from La Colombera needs a few minutes of oxygenation to express itself at its best, but then it gives an excellent intense and stimulating gustatory phase. It has a sapid layering and an original and deep drinking experience. At Casa Semino, they continue to look to the future, as is right for a family dedicated to running the company in all its components. And so, for about a year now, the new tasting room has been active where it is possible to taste the wines of their production. The structure, recently inaugurated, has been set up above the old cellar and presents itself with very large and bright windows that allow you to see a wonderful panorama while tasting. An extra touch that allows you to appreciate the wines of La Colombera in a relaxing and pleasant atmosphere.
The tasting of Aemilia Scauri 2020 by Cantina di Tortona left us in no doubt that it was at least a wine for the final stage: beautiful straw-yellow color, clear scents of yellow fruits, which with a few minutes of oxygenation turn to more complex and mineral notes. The overall picture is completed by an extremely long and savory finish. In recent years, the Cantina Cooperativa di Tortona has made giant strides, moving from a vision more linked to selling at competitive prices to a more far-sighted one dedicated to the quality of products. We cannot fail to point out that in all this, the explosion of popularity that came from Timorasso played a fundamental role, but opportunities must be seized and exploited: therefore, on our part, we congratulate the entire staff.
Derthona Quadro 2021 by Vigneti Repetto is fine and elegant and has reached our finals. Gianpaolo Repetto's race in the world of wine continues smoothly. His peasant origins have helped him in proceeding with this new adventure with pragmatism and clarity. The project has certainly taken the best turn with the commissioning of the new functional and splendid cellar overlooking one of the most beautiful slopes of the Colli Tortonesi. Recently, five rooms have also been opened for overnight stays to better accommodate wine (and non-wine) tourists who have been attracted to this corner of Piedmont for some time.
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