In recent years, the Lazio vineyard has expanded, and from the hills of the region, many of which are of volcanic origin, the vineyards have also spread near coastal areas. In Lazio, it is not always easy to navigate through more or less known denominations, grape varieties, and territories; however, it is rather likely to come across wines of excellent quality, although wine lists and wine shops do not always devote much space to regional wine production.
Here we focus on the native black grape variety that has taken the spotlight in recent years. Obviously, we are talking about Cesanese. The origins are rather uncertain, although it seems to be native to the hills around the city of Rome: currently, two different biotypes are distinguished, common Cesanese and Affile Cesanese, which differ from each other by some morphological traits.
The grape variety gives rise, in particular, to three important denominations: the DOCG Cesanese del Piglio (in the province of Frosinone) and the DOC Cesanese di Olevano Romano and Cesanese di Affile, in the province of Rome. Cesanese, like other red grape varieties from central Italy, if not kept in check, risks giving wines unbalanced on the hard parts, not only tannin but also acidity. However, in recent years, virtuous winemakers are not lacking, and we increasingly find ourselves tasting versions of these wines with great character and identity, which retain the typical traits of the grape variety while at the same time appealing to a sip that is always material but well-proportioned.
The Cesanese with the best quality-price ratio
The following list is taken from the Berebene 2024 by Gambero Rosso, the Guide that awards wines with the best quality-price ratio: they are Cesanese wines available in wine shops or online shops for less than 20 euros.
The Cesanese del Piglio Colle Ticchio 2022 presents aromas of blackcurrant and cherry, accompanied by tones of roots, licorice, and oriental spices, and a juicy, fresh palate, with well-managed and gritty tannins. Founded in 2000, the Corte dei Papi relies on 25 hectares of vineyards for almost 200 hectares in the territory of the Cesanese del Piglio denomination and located on three hills: Tonno, Richezza, and Ticchio.
The Hernicus expresses itself on the nose with notes of laurel, wild plum, and Mediterranean scrub, while the palate, gritty and dynamic, has tones of cardamom and quinine, mineral notes, and crispy fruit. Antonello Coletti Conti is the descendant of a noble family whose origins date back to 1200. Today, the company's vineyards are mainly located in the Caetanella estate, named after the Caetani family. We are on the hills of Anagni, in the province of Frosinone, on volcanic soils where Cesanese has found its home, a grape variety that Antonello has managed to decline in various types, making it express itself in all its facets, accompanied by a few rows of international red grapes and, for white grapes, mainly Manzoni cross.
The Silene 2021 offers scents of Mediterranean scrub, juniper berries, and sour cherry, with a juicy, lively, fresh sip, with good grip and a peppery finish that gives further grit to the palate. A winemaker in search of the perfection of Cesanese from Olevano Romano. This is how Damiano Ciolli defines himself, the fourth generation of a family wine tradition who, for twenty years, has pursued a very specific choice: to enhance the personality of Cesanese, through the care of the biodiversity of the territory and the grape variety, and to make it known to the world. The result is three labels (two reds and a white) of great value that best express the peculiarities of the land at the foot of Monte Celeste.
The Cesanese di Olevano Romano Superiore Tenuta al Campo 2021 is convincing and fascinating, complex on the nose with notes of blackberry, plum, violet, and humus, which return to the palate well supported by a balsamic and savory vein that gives depth to the sip. A family-run company for three generations, which over time has jealously preserved and passed on from father to son the secrets of wine production, but leaving the door open to the use of modern technologies. We are in Olevano Romano, on the hills near the Simbruini mountains, 50 km southeast of Rome. Le Scrime, Pretore, and San Marco are the vineyards, exposed to the south and trained with spur pruning, which see the presence of Cesanese, Ottonese, Moscato, and Malvasia Puntinata, for a production aimed at enhancing wines intended as authentic expressions of the territory.
The Martino V Cesanese 2022 is of excellent quality, on the nose it offers scents of red fruits, accompanied by spicy and quinine notes, while the palate is fresh, rich in fruit, gritty, with well-integrated tannins, good grip, and length. Founded in 1956, Martino V has recently developed a project aimed at recovering and enhancing the local vine varieties, such as Ottonese, Passerina, Cesanese, or Bellone.
Martino V Cesanese 2022 - Nuova Cantina di Genazzano Martino V
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