Everyone's crazy about Meunier. From an unlucky grape to Champagne star, the leap was short. In recent years, what was once considered the poor cousin of Pinot Noir has carved out a significant space within a growing niche of enthusiasts. In terms of numbers, Meunier covers 31% of the vineyard surface area in the entire Champagne region (34,300 hectares), with peaks in the Marne Valley where it surpasses 60%. A vigorous and frost-resistant variety, it has often been planted in valley bottoms or plains, hence the lack of a royal title akin to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, alongside which it forms the traditional production blend. Market demands dictate production; numerous Meunier varietals have been introduced in the last 36 months, enriching an increasingly diverse offering. These often showcase structured Champagnes, with a common thread of bright red fruit and typical notes of bergamot. At times, the challenge lies in the evolution in the bottle or the lack of complete palate acidity relaxation. In our tastings, we found some excellent Champagnes and rather ostentatious and monotonous cuvées, but we'll focus on the former. Here are 10 Champagnes that have captivated us.
The top 10 Meunier Champagnes
Champagne Meunier by Jean Philippe Trousset
So much character. The grapes come from the village of Les Mesneux, on the Montagne de Reims. 20% is from the 2018 vintage, combined with 80% reserve wines aged in 2280-litre barrels, with a dosage of 2 grams. It presents typical notes of bergamot and licorice, offering a substantial and juicy cuvée. The palate is dry, with zesty notes of apple and grapefruit that elevate a finish of great power and an extremely long-lasting taste. What a wonderful discovery. Priced at 70 euros.
Champagne La Pucelle Brut Zero 2016 by Thomas Perseval
From a single plot in Chamery, on the Montagne de Reims. Indigenous yeasts, vinification in oak barrels. An intensely toasted and ripe initial attack that surprises quite a bit, along with hints of wild herbs. The palate is wine-like but at the same time incredibly forceful and energetic, providing a top-notch vertical progression. An extremely long finish, well-supported by the carbonic elements. After a few minutes in the glass, the aromas also find new vitality and harmony. Priced at 100 euros.
Champagne Les Béguines Extra Brut La Closerie
Jerom Prévost was among the first to elevate Meunier to the Olympus of great Champagnes. We're in Gueux, at the foot of the Petit Montagne de Reims, on sandy and chalky soils. Unfortunately, in recent years, this cuvée has faced strong speculation. Olfactory profile in tones of whiteness and purity: citrus, chalk, oyster. The modulation on the palate is very distinctive, rhythmic, with a lovely citrine charge, driven by a salinity that grows like a solo. It culminates in notes of red apple and ginger. Still a bit closed, excellent ageing potential. Disgorged in September 2021. Priced at 270 euros (if you can find it).
Champagne Mont Martin 2016 by Nicola Maillart
The Les Monts Martin parcel is located in the village of Villers Allerand, Montagne de Reims, with Meunier vines dating back to 1972. No malolactic fermentation. In this case, vinification is also done in wood, which isn't noticeable in aromas but contributes to a rare, creamy, and infiltrating texture. Beautiful coppery colour, the effervescence is like embroidery, and the balance between tones of raspberries, anise, and licorice is exceptional. A subdued and saline finish. Priced at 80 euros (it used to cost half of this 5 years ago).
Champagne Extra Brut Branc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Pinot-Chevauchet
Pierrotte, Marie-Moulotte, and Neuville beam from the label, the owners of the three plots that give life to this Meunier. We're in Moussy, in the Marne Valley, and the base harvest is the formidable 2017. The aroma is all about raspberry skin and apple pie, undeniably wine-like, rich, concentrated, yet far from being passive and soft on the palate. Well-contrasted finish. A Champagne with the character of a Barbera. Approximately 2500 bottles are available. Priced at 55 euros.
Champagne Des Grillons aux Clos by Eric Taillet
Sharp and decidedly saline, this cuvée presented by Eric Taillet, one of the greatest interpreters of Meunier. Les Grillons and Les Clos are the two starting vineyards; we're in the Marne Valley, between Motigny and Baslieux-sous-Châtillon. The reference vintage is the fresh 2018, with a small percentage of perpetual reserve to provide maturity. It presents notes of white flowers, lime zest, and rhubarb. The palate is dense, stony, with a whip of salt and grapefruit. Best to wait at least a year in the bottle. Priced at 52 euros.
Champagne L’Arbre 2019 by Vincent Cuillier
The Meunier grapes come from Pouillon, a village in the Montagne de Reims. This is a truly artisanal cuvée, entirely matured in wood. It presents softly with sensations of apple and peach, boasting a velvety palate—light in development yet flavourful—with a typical note of bergamot on the finish. It has ample pulp and a more multifaceted than long finish. There are 1240 bottles available, with no added sulfites. Priced at 60 euros.
Champagne La Fontinette by Domaine Nowack
Flavien Nowack has broadened our horizons on Meunier. We're in the Marne Valley, in Vandières. La Fontinette is the name of the small vineyard, with vines approximately 50 years old. We appreciate the complete and expressive character of this cuvée (2018 on the label), remarkably fresh and dynamic, yet at the same time rich in flesh and substance. The finish is dry, with hints of pepper and strawberries. Priced at 70 euros.
Champagne Rosé de Saignée Nature by Christophe Mignon
The grapes come from plots over 40 years old located between Festigny and Le Breuil, in the Marne Valley. Right from the intensity of its aromas, it doesn't go unnoticed, with hints of almond, crunchy raspberries, and rhubarb. The palate plays with pomegranate, it's juicy and powerful, the cleanliness and freshness of the fruit provide an overwhelming drinkability. It unfolds beautifully on the palate, slightly spicy and then a long and invigorating red fruit finish. Full salmon colour, the base vintage is 2018. Priced at 70 euros.
Champagne Terre de Rosé Extra Brut by Regis Poissinet
Love at first sight. In this case, we're facing a rare blend of Meunier (75%) and Chardonnay (25%), cultivated in different plots of the Marne Valley. Maturation in wood and a beautifully intense colour. It begins with notes of coffee, hazelnut, and white pepper, with a touch of remarkably fascinating oxidation. And what an inviting yet not overtly bold red fruit! The palate is delightful, the minerality is extraordinary, the gracefully spiced accompaniment, and the gentle effervescence. Only 957 bottles were produced. Priced at 70 euros.
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