Where to eat the typical "tortelli di erbette" in Parma: the 10 best restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso

Jan 20 2024, 15:32
Parma, just over an hour from Milan, is the heart of the Food Valley, the gastronomic hub of all of Italy. The richness and quality of its products are impressive, and among them, fresh pasta plays a leading role, especially the traditional "tortelli di erbette alla parmigiana."

Parma, along with its province, is also the homeland of excellent cured meats, such as culatello, prosciutto crudo, the prized Spalla di San Secondo, Felino salami, and others. Parmigiano, then, is the king of the table and, together with butter, is the preferred seasoning for egg pasta dishes, including the famous "tortelli di erbette," small rectangles of thin pastry filled with spinach (or Swiss chard or other greens) and ricotta. On the wine front, the Colli di Parma Dop wines triumph. Here are the 10 best restaurants chosen by Gambero Rosso.

Where to eat the typical "tortelli di erbette" in Parma

Angiol d’Or

Restaurant. A reliable address with the added bonus of a beautiful view of the Cathedral and the Baptistery, especially in the warm season from the outdoor tables. The gastronomic journey begins with a celebration of cold cuts and cured meats, optionally accompanied by "torta fritta" and pickled vegetables. Followed by "tortelli di erbette" with butter and Parmigiano, beef and capon broth "anolini," oven-roasted stuffed veal, and braised pork cheeks with polenta. Fish dishes and creative proposals are also available. A delightful finale with homemade spoon desserts. Accommodation available in the property's bed and breakfast.

Angiol d’Or – vicolo Scutellari, 1 – 0521 282632 – www.angioldor.it

Antica Hostaria Tre Ville

Trattoria. Under the careful management of the Dall'Argine family for many years, this venue offers a serene setting to enjoy good regional cuisine despite its numerous covers. Notable items include "torta fritta" and cured meats, as well as freshly made pasta every day, including beef and capon broth "anolini," "tortelli di erbette," or potato ravioli. Then, horse pesto with confit cherry tomatoes and mustard mayonnaise or oven-roasted veal shank with Barolo and spices. A real treat is the profiterole assembled at the table. An interesting and fairly priced wine list. Owned hotel.

Antica Hostaria Tre Ville – via Benedetta, 99/A – 0521 272524 – www.hostariatreville.com

Cocchi

Restaurant. Open since 1925, Cocchi is the preferred address for the Parma bourgeoisie and a faithful guardian of the gastronomic orthodoxy of the Food Valley. In its classically elegant halls, you can order a wide variety of delicious cold cuts served with "torta fritta." "Anolini in brodo," the typical "tortelli di erbette," and rice savarin are well-prepared. In winter, the spotlight is on boiled meats, and the oven-roasted stuffed veal shank with Parmigiana is worth trying. A sweet ending with a slice of Duchessa cake. A fine wine list that celebrates the territory and the most renowned areas of Italy.

Cocchi – viale A. Gramsci, 16/A – 0521 981990 – www.ristorantecocchi.it

La Cucina del Maestro

Trattoria: The "Maestro" in the sign, overlooking one of the busiest streets in the city, is none other than Giuseppe Verdi, the celebrated composer born in Busseto. The cozy rooms are adorned with many photos and mementos to pay homage to him, with a menu featuring many traditional dishes dedicated to the passionate gourmet. Selected cured meats, an interesting "vertical" of Parmigiano Reggiano, beef and capon broth "anolini," "tortelli di erbette" with butter and Parmigiano, oven-roasted veal shank, and organic guinea fowl roulade. Delivery and take-away services are available.

La Cucina del Maestro – strada L.C. Farini, 19 – 0521 1855977 – www.lacucinadelmaestro.com

Due Platani

Trattoria. Only 8 kilometers separate the center from Coloreto, a fraction southeast of Parma towards Reggio Emilia. Here is one of the best trattorias in Italy, awarded Tre Gamberi in the Ristoranti d'Italia 2024 Guide. Tasteful furnishings, classic checkered tablecloths dressing the tables, a convivial atmosphere, and a proposal based on essential cornerstones, starting from the meticulous and continuous search for quality products. Spectacular cold cuts, fresh pasta dishes (including "tortelli di erbette" and beef and capon broth "anolini" are always on the menu), almost perfect cooking for pigeon. It's advisable to leave some space for desserts, especially the amazing cream ice cream with vanilla whipped espresso and English soup. Well-considered wine list. Advance booking recommended.

Due Platani – frazione Coloreto strada Budellungo, 104/A – 0521 645626 – www.aidueplatani.com   

La Greppia

Restaurant. It is undoubtedly advisable to book to dine in this historic venue, always very popular. The highlight of the offer is the Parmesan tradition, with the inevitable cured meats, "torta fritta," horse pesto with caramelized onions, followed by fresh pasta dishes with "tortelli di erbette" leading the way, culatello tagliolini, "Rosa di Parma" with Marsala sauce, and braised beef stew. Fish dishes, options for vegetarians and celiacs are also available. To complete the circle, a substantial selection of wines that, starting from the region, embraces the entire peninsula and beyond.

La Greppia – strada G. Garibaldi, 39/A – 0521 233686 – www.ristorantelagreppia.axeleroweb.it

Osteria dei Servi

Trattoria. Rustic-style environments with terracotta floors, stone walls, wooden tables, and chairs, essential table settings provide the suitable backdrop to savor typical cuisine based on recipes prepared by expert hands. Examples? Artichoke pudding with San Secondo cooked shoulder, "tortelli di erbette" with clarified butter and Parmigiano, tripe Parmesan-style, braised wild boar with balsamic caramelized onion cream. A pleasant surprise is the cellar, focusing on local companies and breweries, a valid choice by the glass, and interesting references from Italy and beyond.

Osteria dei Servi – piazza Ghiaia, 1 – 0521 1856156 – www.osteriadeiservi.com

Sorelle Picchi

Trattoria. One of the symbolic places of Parma's gastronomy, where everything has remained "as it used to be." The venue, very nice, is attached to the homonymous delicatessen, where you can find the best local products, especially cured meats. The dishes are those of tradition, made with love, with genuine flavors: excellent cold cuts, "tortelli d'erbette," pumpkin or potato, beef and capon broth "anolini," "Rosa di Parma" raw ham and Parmigiano, ossobuco in gremolada of vegetables. Local wines that perfectly complement the type of cuisine are available. During the summer, charming outdoor tables are available.

Sorelle Picchi – strada L.C. Farini, 27/A – 0521 1855966 – www.trattoriasorellepicchi.com

I Tri Siochètt

Trattoria. In the serene countryside, just a few minutes from the center, a sign devoted to the Parmesan culinary tradition for over thirty years. Sumptuous cured meats are accompanied by sweet and sour pickled onions, pickled vegetables, artichokes in oil, and "torta fritta," here fragrant and light. The culinary journey continues with "tortelli di erbette" and homemade tagliatelle, the "vecchia" Parmesan-style dish, and horse pesto with caper pesto. The finale is entrusted to English trifle or cherries from Vignola in spirits. The regional wine cellar boasts labels with an excellent quality-to-price ratio. During the beautiful season, dining is available in the garden.

I Tri Siochett – strada comunale Farnese, 74/A – 0521 968870 – www.itrisiochett.it

Le Viole

Trattoria. It takes more or less a quarter of an hour to reach this venue, located where the city ends and the countryside begins. The environment is cozy, and during the summer, you can take advantage of the large blooming garden. The cuisine is genuine and authentic, with some creative touches, and a basic menu enriched by daily specialties listed verbally. Among the flagship dishes are Parmesan-style rice and "tortelli di erbette." The homemade desserts, needless to say, deserve attention (and a bit of space!). The wine list, far from ordinary, lists many Italian labels and various appreciated foreign references.

Le Viole – località Castelnovo frazione Baganzola strada nuova di Castelnuovo, 60/A – 0521 601000 – www.trattorialevioleparma.com

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