After a year in purgatory and a last-gasp match, Claudio Ranieri's red-blues are back in the big league. It's time to jump on a plane or ferry to enjoy the city in festive mode, without forgetting the technicolour sunsets from the bastions of the Castello, the crystal-clear sea of the Poetto beach, the San Benedetto market with its redevelopment project, and them, 'sa genti arrubia', the red people: a colony of pink flamingos that have been nesting for decades in the Molentargius-Saline Natural Park, a stone's throw from the centre. Here are the places not to be missed on a tour of discovery in the capital, where gastronomy is tied to its roots but knows how to surprise the curious.
Where to eat in Cagliari
Bombas Hamburgeria Sarda
Burger joint. The bread is made in-house, the meat comes from the best of the island's farms, the other ingredients are superbly selected and the combinations give sandwiches that touch that makes it one of the best burger joints in town.
Bombas Hamburgeria Sarda – via Università, 37 – 070 753451 – facebook.com/bombashamburgeriasarda/
Restaurant. Stefano Deidda develops his path of innovation and research in the family restaurant. Past experiences mark the way, but are influenced by ingredients and recipes from the island. There are only two tasting menus: let yourself be guided. For those seeking more simplicity there is the Fork Easy Gourmet next door, this year in a revamped look.
Dal Corsaro – viale Regina Margherita, 28 – 070 664318 – stefanodeidda.it
Bistro. A speciality larder, tools and accessories shop, bookshop, but also a venue for attending courses and tastings. The menu is constructed daily according to market availability, the dishes are one more intriguing than the next. Beautiful setting, convivial atmosphere.
CUCINA.eat – piazza G. Galilei, 1 – 070 0991098 – shopcucina.it
Pizzeria. Here, in order to guarantee the highest standards, it is not possible to change the ingredients topping the pies, and this is not a problem: they are designed to have the best balance between the ingredients used. The dough made with sourdough starter and selected flours gives a crispy bite and fluffy middle. To drink there are artisanal wines and many beers.
Framento – c.so Vittorio Emanuele II, 82 – 070 6670370 – dijef.com
Pizzeria. Fresh pasta, pizza and bread, all made from a calibrated mix of flour, yeast and water. In business since 2018, it is a must for all lovers of the carbohydrate, offered in many variations. Plus craft beers and wines. Attentive service.
Impasto - via Savoia, 4 - 070 653321 - impasto.me
Restaurant. Dim lighting, vinyl music, open kitchen. This is Pierluigi Fais's restaurant (same ownership as Framento). A wine bar ambiance and a solid restaurant proposal, innovative yes but resting on solid foundations of sustainability, tradition and culture.
Josto – via Sassari, 25 – 070 3510722 – dijef.com
Trattoria. In the Marina district near the harbour, run by the Zucca family for several generations, it is a solid outpost of traditional cuisine. In a setting of rustic simplicity or in the outdoor area, guests enjoy tasty, authentic dishes according to market availability. House wine or Sardinian labels to pair the food.
Lillicu – via Sardegna, 78 – 070 652970 – trattoria.cagliari.it
Locanda dei Buoni e dei Cattivi
Trattoria. It is part of a project of the Domus de Luna non-profit organisation that aims to involve young people and mothers in employment distress. On the table come dishes that well interpret tradition and the territory with good ingredients. Rooms available.
Locanda dei Buoni e dei Cattivi – via Vittorio Veneto, 96 – 345 4419347 – buoniecattivi.it
Da Marino al St. Remy
Restaurant. Marino Cogoni is a gracious and classy host. His partner Silvana Sardu is at the helm in the kitchen, author of Italian classics - mostly seafood - with a contemporary touch and based on high quality ingredients. The wine list is very good.
Da Marino al St. Remy – via Torino, 16 – 070 657377 – stremy.it
Wine Bar. An ideal place for a raw fish aperitif. Meals start with different types of oysters, but also with scampi, giant red prawns or fish tartare. Continue with crustaceans freshly caught from the aquarium, hot dishes and something from the vegetable garden. To drink, guests are spoilt for choice, with many options also served by the glass.
Oyster – via Sardegna, 30 – 070 657987 – facebook.com/oystercagliari/
Restaurant. Luigi Pomata is an institution in the city. His restaurant reconciles large numbers with high quality, bringing together adults and young people, gourmets and customers in search of conviviality. The menu is extensive, mostly seafood. The wine list is wide and not trivial.
Luigi Pomata – v.le Regina Margherita, 18 – 070 672058 – luigipomata.com
I Sarti del Gusto
Restaurant. Attractive setting with a handful of tables and a delightful outdoor area. The proposal is multifaceted, from breakfast to a quick lunch or dinner, a fun cuisine that combines flair and technique with local ingredients. Well-stocked wine list.
I Sarti del Gusto – vico II V. Sulis, 1/a – 070 6848548 – facebook.com/isartidelgusto
Street Food. This taqueria uses quality local and seasonal ingredients. After a few entradas like guacamole and totopos, you move on to tacos: pork and pineapple, stewed octopus, tongue and salsa verde, yucateca chicken. Young and modern ambiance.
Taquito – via D. A. Azuni, 94 – 351 3881862 – taquitocagliari.it
by Clara Barra and Valentina Marino