Between droughts and violent late hailstorms, 2023 will be remembered by Lazio winemakers for the extreme difficulty in achieving positive results or at least results in line with previous years. This challenge applies not only to producers working with organic or biodynamic methods but generally to all grape vine growers in the region. The hope is that those who worked best in the vineyard, with all possible attention and passion, can offer wines, albeit in small quantities, of fine quality.
Regarding our tastings, Lazio confirms its character, both good and bad. On one hand, we cannot help but confirm the ability to achieve excellent results throughout the region: 4 out of 5 provinces have produced at least one Tre Bicchieri. The only exception, Rieti, is historically the least involved area in wine production, using a significant number of both native (bellone, biancolella, cesanese, grechetto) and international (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, grenache, syrah, viognier) grape varieties.
Tre Bicchieri 2024: the best Cesanese wines
This year, we welcome back three wineries to our highest recognition in the Gambero Rosso Vini d'Italia 2024 guide and the entry of a new one. Two of them receive the award with their "cadet" wine, not the most important and challenging, but we liked them especially for their freshness and drinkability: Coletti Conti with its Cesanese del Piglio Superiore Hernicus and Ciolli with the Cesanese di Olevano Romano Superiore Silene.
Antonello Coletti Conti's vineyards are mainly located in the Caetanella estate on the hills of Anagni in Frusinate, on volcanic soils where Cesanese plays a leading role. The Cesanese del Piglio Superiore Hernicus '21 reveals notes of laurel, wild blackthorn, and Mediterranean scrub on the nose, while the palate, with mineral tones and rich fruit, is highly enjoyable, lively, and dynamic.
For twenty years, Damiano Ciolli has sought to enhance the personality of Cesanese through the care of biodiversity in the territory and the grape variety, producing wines that express the peculiarities of the land at the foot of Monte Celeste. The Cesanese di Olevano Romano Superiore Silene '21 highlights aromas of Mediterranean scrub, juniper berries, and sour cherry, while the palate is juicy, fresh, with good structure and a lively peppery finish.
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