Tre Bicchieri in Umbria
This small region in central Italy once again proves that it's small only in size. The high number of Tre Bicchieri awarded (this year 15, a record) are a perfect reflection of an industry that's in great form, demonstrating the quality of the region's reds, but its white side as well. The most prestigious appellations delivered in spades: in Montefalco 2017 Sagrantinos (and some 2016s) were in the limelight. Despite the heat, the former made for very dense wines; but now, through calibrated maceration and the skillful use of barrel aging, their tannins are in balance with the rest of the wines' texture. The 2016s once again prove superb. More good news comes from the same area, thanks to Montefalco Rosso. It's not a younger brother of Sagrantino, but a wine in which Sangiovese stands out and manages to give shape to various territorial nuances. Finally, here we also find space for whites, with Trebbiano Spoletino increasingly at the fore. Speaking of whites, we can't overlook, nor overstate, just how well Orvieto is doing. Slowly things are changing and the well-known white is regaining the prestige it deserves, by virtue of wines that aptly represent the territory while also proving highly ageworthy.
The best wines of Umbria
But in Umbria there's more, much more, starting with Todi, another area that's increasingly at the fore. Here we also think that white wine production prevails, thanks to a grape, Grechetto, that's capable of surprising for its character and brightness. Few, very few Torgiano wines were produced, but all of great class, including Sangiovese for the reds, Grechetto, Trebbiano and Vermentino for the whites. We conclude by mentioning two areas that we've been keeping a close eye on some years. One is Trasimeno, where Trasimeno Gamay is produced (nothing to do with Beaujolais, Trasimeno Gamay is part of the great Grenache family). The vineyards adjacent to the lake give rise to graceful, Mediterranean wines, superbly drinkable. The other area is Narni, where Ciliegiolo has been the undisputed king for many years, and several producers are bottling charming interpretations of the grape.
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