by Vittorio Ferla
Etna Doc increasingly leans towards white wines: it's now neck and neck between Carricante and Nerello. A fairly recent shift considering that as late as 2018, Etna Rosso was worth twice as much as white (2 million bottles versus 1 million), with production growing by 59% compared to whites' 28%. The 2023 balance sheet shows a radically changed scenario: red bottles amount to 2.7 million compared to 2.4 million whites, including Etna Bianco Superiore from Milo. The latter, which still has modest numbers, has nevertheless tripled, also because the producers, who were just three pioneers at the beginning, have now grown to more than twenty.
"Previously, the focus was on red wines, but now the greater growth is seen in Etna Bianco made from Carricante grapes," reveals Consortium President Francesco Cambria (lawyer and owner of Cottanera winery). "Freshness, salinity, the sensations of the mountains are the basis of their appeal."
The Rise of Bubbles
Another type deserving attention is sparkling wines. "There's also a percentage growth for sparkling wines (bottles more than doubled compared to 2018)," highlights Cambria, "but it's still a small numeric base." Seby Costanzo, an architect, owner of Cantine di Nessuno, and vice president of the Consortium, explains the phenomenon: "Up until 10 years ago, there were only 3-4 producers of sparkling wine, today there are 20-25 for a total of just over 200,000 DOC bottles."
Sparkling wine is one of the novelties in the specification that will mark the transition from DOC to DOCG, decided in one of the consortium's recent assemblies, with the extension of sparkling wine production to Carricante (previously limited to Nerello Mascalese). In addition, a maximum limit of 70 quintals is set for the production of contrada wines and Bianco Superiore.
Etna Days Aims to Become a Major Preview
The next step will be to increase communication, including through a major consortium event, following the model of the previews of Italy's major denominations. After all, in terms of production, Mount Etna now competes with the giants of Italian wine - from Barolo to Brunello to Amarone - so the time is ripe for a preview worthy of the brand. The bet is on Etna Days, the event organized by the Consortium in September. "For a couple of years now, we've been organizing Etna Days, the consortium event born thanks to the PSRs and OCMS (which aim for internationalization) and aimed primarily at the US press and, since 2023, also at the Swiss and British press. The event will expand over time to include European and national media," assures Francesco Cambria.
However, Contrade dell'Etna is currently beyond the Consortium's control. The territorial event is a pioneering invention of Andrea Franchetti, the founder of Passopisciaro winery who recently passed away, and is now managed by a private agency. "It's an effective event, especially for small producers, but despite our efforts, we couldn't manage to share it with the Consortium," reveals Costanzo.
Catania Nominated for City of Wine 2025
In the meantime, the immediate future involves Vinitaly: "This year, we'll present ourselves in a single area dedicated to Mount Etna with 50 producers united by a coordinated image: a single producer of 6 million bottles," says the vice president, who then announces a new project: to include Catania, where the 10 municipalities of Etna Doc are located, among the cities of wine and then nominate it for City of Wine 2025. Another opportunity for promotion for one of the most promising denominations in the Italian wine landscape.
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