Schiava is by far the most widespread red grape in Alto Adige (but it is also found in Trentino, Lombardy, and Veneto), whose name suggests a Slavic origin or even refers to an ancient cultivation system in which it was tied to a "tutor" tree and therefore "enslaved". Since in the countries of the German-speaking area it is known as trollinger, which could be a corruption of "tirolinger", it is not to be excluded that it is an autochthonous variety of South Tyrol. There are several clones of Schiava (vernatsch in Alto Adige), among which the large Schiava (grossvernatsch) is the most widespread. The great popularity of this grape variety is due to its resistance and high productivity. It enters the composition of almost all red wines blended in the region, and it is vinified almost in purity in the Doc Santa Maddalena, Lake Caldaro, Alto Adige Schiava, with the former focusing more on richness and maturity and the latter on finesse and agility.
In a world like that of wine, where nothing repeats itself in the same way year after year, the productive fabric of the province of Bolzano stands out for the awareness with which producers are facing new challenges. Challenges that do not only concern climate change or the sudden volatility of markets, but above all the management of the territory, the development of its potential, and the transition from a production that satisfies customer demands to one that enhances the connection between the many cultivated grape varieties and the exposures that best suit them.
This renewed awareness has led smaller companies to specialize in the vocation of their vineyards, as perfectly highlighted by urban companies or by the more distant realities of the Valle Isarco, and similarly, cooperative structures to reserve the best selections only for the grape varieties that best adapt to their territory.
The best Lake Caldaro wines
Here we focus on the best expressions of Lake Caldaro evaluated this year with Tre Bicchieri or Due Bicchieri Rossi or Due Bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso 2024 Wine Guide.
An emblematic tasting is that of Lake Caldaro Quintessenz 2022, Tre Bicchieri 2024, the result of the oldest and best-exposed vines in the St. Josef area, a wine that is light and bewitching in aromatic freshness, with wild fruit supported by spices and floral notes. On the palate, it is agile, savory, and endlessly drinkable. The large Caldaro cooperative is one of the most important realities in the region. Today, Thomas Scarizuola heads the technical group that manages production in line with the cellar's vocation, producing wines that tell the production territory with an elegant style that places tension at the center of the objective. The wide range of labels is divided between wines that enhance varietal expression and wines that instead express the close connection with the originating vineyard.
From the vineyards surrounding Lake Caldaro in the Olleiten area, at about 330 meters above sea level, here are the grapes for Vernacius Solemnis '21, a Lake Caldaro wine that, after immediate scents of red fruit and flowers, delivers a palate of great pleasantness that interprets the historic denomination at its best. Few realities can rely on a viticultural platform that explores all the most important viticultural areas of Alto Adige. The Laimburg Institute has this great fortune and responsibility, dedicating itself to a production contained in numbers but of great quality and above all to the study of viticulture in very different climatic and soil conditions. In the cellar, the range produced ranges from traditional Schiava to the most innovative wines, by choice of grape variety, production, or vineyard location.
The Plantaditsch 2021 is one of the wines presented this year by Klosterhof Oskar Andergassen. Oskar Andergassen manages only a few hectares together with his son Hannes, all in prestigious positions in the Caldaro area. They are named Trifall, Plataditsch, Barleit, and Vial, all areas always dedicated to viticulture and which allow the company to cultivate the most suitable grape variety in each plot. In the small cellar in Klavenz, a production contained in numbers but of excellent qualitative level is born, with Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc playing the role of protagonists.
The Lake Caldaro Cl. 2022 is one of the wines presented this year by Christian Bellutti, who runs the family business on the outskirts of Termeno. Among the varieties cultivated, Gewürztraminer also stands out. The Plon '22 has an intense aroma of exotic fruit and spices, while on the palate, it impresses with fullness and density, resulting in a long and fascinating finish.
The Bischofsleiten 2022 is one of the wines presented this year by Castel Sallegg, the historic cellar of Count von Kuenburg, an absolute reference point for lovers of Oltradige wines. The property extends from the shores of the lake to the highest vineyard areas of the municipality and provides grapes for a production of great finesse.
The Klaser Hecht 2022 is one of the wines presented this year by Niklaserhof Dieter Sölva. The Sölva family's company extends over 7 hectares along the hills surrounding Lake Caldaro on different plots. If for varieties that require more warmth, such as Bordeaux or Lagrein, grapes are sourced from the Prutznai and Lavason areas, Schiava reigns supreme at Barleit, and white berry varieties are found in the highest vineyards of Vial and Kardatsch. A real viticultural puzzle that, within a few kilometers, offers insights and possibilities for reliable and high-quality production.
The Lake Caldaro Scheinheilig '22 is very good, a classic interpretation of the typology, characterized by an intense note of small red fruits and an agile taste profile that entrusts pleasantness to its savory presence. Arthur Rainer, together with his wife Ingrid, runs the small family business on the shores of Lake Caldaro, two hectares cultivated with varieties that best adapt to these sunny and warm slopes. The cellar is located inside the family-owned hotel, and production is scattered across a wide range of labels of excellent craftsmanship.
The Lake Caldaro Cl. V. Windegg 2022 is one of the wines presented this year by Josef Brigl. There have been more than 30 generations of Brigls who have succeeded in leading the historic Appiano company, an adventure that began in 1309 and that after 700 years can rely on a very extensive viticultural platform, 50 hectares of property to which precious collaborations with winemakers, especially from the Renon and Termeno areas, must be added.
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