Cagnulari is still cultivated with the ancient alberello method on the hills of limestone-clay composition south of Sassari, not far from the coast of Alghero. Of uncertain origin, it shows some resemblance to Bovale, and for this reason, it is believed to have been introduced to Sardinia during the Aragonese domination of the 1600s. It also appears to have genetic similarities with Mourvèdre, cultivated in southern France, known in Spain as Monastrell.
It is a strongly territorial wine that in the past was often used to blend with other less intense and full-bodied red wines or sold in bulk for local consumption. The grape variety was saved from extinction only thanks to the tenacity of about ten small producers. Its vinification in purity is quite recent; today, Cagnulari is recognized with the Controlled Designation of Origin within the Alghero DOC, but some of the most important producers prefer to use the Isola dei Nuraghi IGT denomination, precisely to mark the difference and uniqueness compared to the better-known wines of Alghero.
Cagnulari is a grape variety with rather abundant production, which needs to be contained to obtain quality grapes and wines with the right aromatic concentration. The wine has a bright ruby red color, intense aromas of berries, with spicy notes and balsamic accents. On the palate, it is warm, with good structure, soft tannins, and a pleasant freshness, making it very harmonious. The finish is savory and persistent. For the most fragrant and immediately consumable versions, Cagnulari is aged in steel, but wood aging is yielding excellent results for wines intended for aging.
It is a grape variety with a strong personality, typical and linked to the small production area. The best expressions reveal a still unexpressed potential, especially with long aging, which gives Cagnulari great complexity. It pairs very well with pasta dishes with meat sauce, red meats, roasts, lamb, and game.
The best Cagnulari from Sardinia
Here are the best labels of Cagnulari according to Gambero Rosso, which this year have obtained the Due Bicchieri Rossi or the Due Bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso 2024 Vini d'Italia guide.
Among the reds produced by Siddùra, the Cagnulari Bàcco 2021 (Due Bicchieri Rossi) is excellent. We are in Gallura, near Luogosanto, a territory historically linked to Vermentino, which here expresses itself in savory, mineral, and salty tones thanks to the granitic terroir and the sea breezes. Cannonau, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Moscato are also cultivated here. The success of the winery, founded by Nathan Gottesdiener (a German entrepreneur in love with the area), is based not only on the excellent work of Luca Vitaletti and Dino Dini, the company's agronomist and winemaker but also on modern and effective communication.
There are two Cagnulari from Giovanni Maria Cherchi that we would like to highlight. One is the Cagnulari 2021 (Due Bicchieri Rossi), a meaty red with a rustic but extremely charming character. The other is the Billia Rosso 2022. A historic company in the northwest of Sardinia, which has been trying since its foundation by Giovanni Maria Cherchi to tell the territory of Usini through Vermentino, the classic Sardinian white grape, masterfully interpreted also thanks to soil and climate, and Cagnulari, a much less known red grape, on which Cherchi has been focusing for a long time, and which is increasingly standing out. Cannonau has also joined the other two grape varieties among the most used.
The Cagnulari Graffiante 2021 by Rigàtteri is dense and spicy. Completing the range of wines from the winery, based on indigenous grapes and of a high overall level. The Vermentino di Sardegna Yios 2022, fresh, savory, and almond-flavored, and the Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato 2022.
The Cagnulari 2021 by Cantina Pedres is one of the wines from the company led for over twenty years by Antonella Mancini, who - as the heir to an important wine family active since the late 1800s - works to communicate Gallura and its wines to Italy and the world. The production mainly focuses on the flagship grape of these areas, Vermentino, perfect for pouring into the glass both the warmth and the granitic minerality of northeastern Sardinia, combined with the salty breezes coming from the sea. The production also includes reds and a selection of bubbles, white and rosé, dry and sweet, from Vermentino and Moscato.
The Cagnulari 2021 by Carpante has good tannic texture and excellent drinkability. Cagnulari and Vermentino, based on these two grapes, Carpante's production stands out in tastings. The Vermentino Longhera 2021 is a fresh and savory wine, with notes of almond and helichrysum.
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