Tasting sessions brought great satisfaction this year in Veneto, undoubtedly influenced by excellent vintages like 2021 and 2022. Despite being diametrically opposed, these vintages produced wines with refined aromas and dynamic flavors with great tension and agility in the first case, and intensely fruity, approachable, and immediate wines in the second. In the realm of reds, the time span widens significantly, exploring Bardolino and Valpolicella for the most recent harvests before embarking on a journey back in time for the Bordeaux blends of the eastern provinces, concluding with the 2013 Amarones.
Here, a new awareness emerges, featuring authentic wines where technique enhances the connection with the territory rather than following a winning model. Appassimento, associated with Amarone, has almost disappeared from the more interesting Valpolicella Superiore wines. The territory takes center stage, even with internationally renowned grape varieties. The Bordeaux blends from Colli Euganei and Berici contrast with those from the Treviso province, the former being richer and sunnier, and the latter emphasizing elegance and tension.
Tre Bicchieri 2024: The Best Red Wines from Veneto with International Grape Varieties
Focusing on 5 outstanding red wines made from international grape varieties, all of which received Tre Bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso Guide to Italian Wines 2024
Campo Sella 2019 leads the lineup from the Stefano and Luigi Sutto winery, showcasing no weaknesses. A pure Merlot from the vineyard of the same name, it expresses scents of ripe red fruit with significant balsamic and floral notes. In the mouth, it reveals a full body, well-supported by acidity and a dense, smooth texture of tannins, providing completeness to the sip. The Sutto brothers have rapidly transformed their father Ferruccio's small winery into one of the region's most important realities. The extensive vineyard extends between the Treviso plain and the UNESCO heritage hills, including significant experience in the Collio Goriziano. The historic cellar in Via Arzeri is joined by the new and modern structure in Col San Martino, dedicated to Prosecco Superiore production.
Colli Berici Cabernet Bradisismo Bradisismo 2020 by Inama gradually reveals a solid and vibrant body. Stefano Inama has transformed his father's winery, founded in the second half of the 20th century, into one of the region's most interesting realities. Today, the property extends across an important vineyard in two denominations, and alongside Stefano, his children Matteo, Alessio, and Luca play increasingly significant roles. The winery pays maximum attention to the environmental impact of its activities and, concurrently, to the desire to enhance the potential of these wonderful territories. It's challenging to choose the most interesting wines at Inama this year, with two reds and an absolutely valuable Soave.
Colli Euganei Cabernet Borgo delle Casette Ris. 2019 by Il Filò delle Vigne is one of the winery's most convincing wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon with a balance of Franc and Carmenère, featuring deep scents and a solid palate with dense tannins and great solidity. The Giordani family's winery covers about twenty hectares in the southern part of the Colli Euganei, at just a few dozen meters above sea level, ensuring perfect ripening of the Bordeaux red grape varieties. Matteo Zanaica oversees both field and cellar activities, contributing to one of the denomination's most interesting productions, with a leading role for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Colli Euganei Rosso Gemola 2017 by Vignalta, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, presents a rich fruity bouquet after a long refinement in the cellar. The extended aging has brought harmony to the vigorous body, and the wine unfolds with grace and determination at the same time. The name Vignalta is indissolubly linked to the Colli Euganei, the volcanic area south of Padua, where viticulture merges into a landscape where wooded areas and cultivated valleys create a varied and low-impact agricultural profile. The productive heart is located between the hills of Baone and Arquà Petrarca, with over 30 hectares dedicated mostly to Bordeaux varieties, but also including Chardonnay, Manzoni Bianco, or the historical Moscato Bianco and Giallo.
Montello Colli Asolani Il Rosso dell'Abazia 2019 by Serafini & Vidotto, even with the 2019 vintage, doesn't fail to showcase the weight of its class. Scents range from wild fruit to aromatic herbs, leaving spices in the background. In the mouth, the fullness of the sip finds support in the acidic backbone characterizing the territory, stretching into a dry and refined finish. Matteo Serafini's role in the winery founded by his father Francesco and Antonello Vidotto is becoming increasingly important, representing one of Italy's most representative wineries dedicated to Bordeaux blends. The over 20 hectares of vineyards on the slopes of Montello are managed with care and utmost respect for the environment, collaborating with university institutions that approach sustainability with the strength of knowledge. In the cellar, there is a maximum focus on enhancing the fruit and gustatory depth.
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