Autumn, it’s time for out-of-town trips. Those who live in Rome - which, let us remember, is the largest agricultural municipality in Europe - already find, within the administrative territory of the Capital, the possibility of visiting wineries that offer excellent cuisine, as well as home wine tasting. Moving a little beyond the city limits, however, the map is enriched with multifaceted hospitality establishments for wine lovers, ideal for a day break or a bucolic weekend in the midst of nature. Here are recommendations from Gambero Rosso's Ristoranti d'Italia guide 2024.
5 vineyard where to eat close to Rome
Epos Bistrot – Monte Porzio Catone
Worth the detour on the road (from the nearby A1 exit) is the restaurant of the Poggio Le Volpi winery, a giant of Latium production, with a structure overlooking Rome that is striking for its space and attention to detail, from the tables on the outdoor terrace to the nice dining rooms inside. Charcoal-grilled meats are the core of the food proposal, in an important selection; but the menu does not lack of great ingredients and intriguing options, including seafood, such as the reginelle with fish ragout and salicornia pesto, or the caramelised onion with caciocavallo cheese fondue and cooked must reduction. Must mention the welcome and service, competent and smiling. A visit to the lower floor is recommended, with the seasoning rooms for cheese and cured meats and the precious ambience of the barrique room, often used for events.
Epos Bistrot – via Fontana Candida, 3 – Monte Porzio Catone (RM) – eposbistrot.it
Casale VerdeLuna – Piglio
Piglio, land of Cesanese: it is among the rows of this indigenous grape variety that Stefano Matturro and Gabriella Grassi have been carrying out this project for the past five years, in a beautiful farmhouse that is dedicated to wine production, agriculture and hospitality, with rooms for sleeping in a peaceful green setting and a restaurant where one can stop to appreciate all the richness of flavours of which this land at the foot of the Simbruini Mountains is rich. At the table, with ingredients coming from the organic vegetable garden on the property as well as from local craftmanship and cooperatives, come genuine, carefully prepared dishes, ranging from cold meats, cheeses and local vegetables, to go with perhaps home-made bread with mother yeast. And among the first courses, fresh pasta, hand-rolled and knife-cut, from gnocchi to lasagne, seasoned according to season and imagination. Lots of meat among the main courses, from chanterelle to black pork. Also tasting menus. To drink, of course, local wines. Friendly service.
Casale VerdeLuna – loc. Civitella, 3 – Piglio (FR) – www.casaleverdeluna.it
Pileum – Piglio
Pileum is a small rural jewel in the countryside, a farm that is just over twenty years old and that for the past two years has housed the restaurant under the guidance of chef Davide Mazza. Inside there’s an eye-catcher: the barrels on the ceiling and the large room lead back to what the chef's cuisine also wants to bring back, freedom. There are no set menus, they go towards the customer's needs. Davide Mazza starts from his roots, those of Campania of origin (try the potato and provolone pasta) and those of Frusinate adoption (see the "fini fini" ciociari, here with cacio, pepper, anchovies and tarragon). A must then is the 'tuna del Piglio' (black lepine pork, marinated tomato and Pileum giardiniera). A five-course tasting at 55 euro, 70 with three paired glasses. Small-ranging but effective wine cellar.
Pileum - c.da Casalotto – Piglio (FR) – pileum.it/ristorante-pileum
L’Orto di Alberico – Rome
An oasis of peace and good air, we are in the green of Tenuta Principe Alberico, 127 hectares in the Roman countryside of Fiorano, in the south-east of the city, 20 minutes from the centre of Rome. The restaurant, a farm, offers a set menu with simple, seasonal dishes, made with self-produced ingredients. Preparations change from week to week, and include many recipes based on fresh vegetables. It is matched by house wines. The dining room is carefully decorated and the open-air area is beautiful, with a chance of observing the estate's crops and animals.
L’Orto di Alberico - Via di Fioranello, 34 – Roma – www.ortodialberico.it
Agriturismo Seguire le Botti – Terracina
'Follow the barrels' was once the answer neighbours gave to people passing by who were looking for the winery, now Cantina Sant'Andrea, which had marked the route with barrels (signs were too expensive). Today, it’s the name of the agritourism farm with hospitality and rooms that is excellently managed by Andrea Pandolfo. He was the one who called the talented chef Pasquale Minciguerra to hold the reins of the kitchen. A refined cuisine, devoted to products from Lazio (Andrea's hand is in the search for ingredients) elaborated with wisdom and respect, according to season. On our last visit we were won over by the aubergine parmigiana, the bread and tomato ravioli with Provolone Recco fondue, and the guinea fowl in 3 services with pak choi (from Lazio) and Symposium sour cherries. Cantina wines are served, careful service. At the end of the meal, or before, let them tell you the beautiful story of migration and rebirth of the Pandolfo family, it will be worth it.
Agriturismo Seguire le Botti – via del Renibbio pod. 1720 - Borgo Vodice, Terracina (LT) – seguirelebotti.it
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