Where to eat in Brescia and surroundings. The 15 best trattorias chosen by Gambero Rosso

Jan 8 2024, 15:31
Together with Bergamo, Brescia was the Capital of Culture 2023. And it's also the Lombard province with the highest number of agritourism farms. Here are the best traditional cuisine venues in Brescia and surroundings.

The capital is a rich and dynamic city, and its province encompasses that slice of Lake Garda, very organised and attractive to diverse tourism, largely international. In addition to top-notch establishments like Lido 84 in Gardone Riviera, one of the world's best restaurants, traditional eateries are also highly appreciated. This area's tradition revolves around Lake Garda and Lake Iseo, offering a cuisine that blends humble dishes with both land and freshwater fish (pike, tench, eels, aloette). It ranges from rustic recipes from the valleys and inland areas: casoncelli stuffed with sausage and cheese, risottos with wild herbs, vegetable soups, rustic omelettes, horse stew, domestic poultry, quails, and pigeons, stuffed or served as accompaniments to the ubiquitous polenta, the cornerstone of the meal, presented in myriad variations.

The 15 best trattorias in Brescia

Brescia

Osteria Al Bianchi

A classic venue, with no frills in the environment but with substance worth stopping for. Focuses on typical Brescia cuisine: boards of cured meats and cheeses, casoncelli alla bresciana (stuffed pasta), malfatti with poured butter, beef with oil, snails in zimino (for enthusiasts). Desserts of satisfaction, reserve a spot for them. House wine to accompany and a laid-back atmosphere.

Osteria Al Bianchi - Brescia - via G. da Salò, 32 - 030 292328 - osteriaalbianchi.it

Imbufalita

A cheerful, modern osteria with a Mediterranean-inspired menu. They offer dishes such as mozzarella in carrozza with homemade basil mayonnaise, spaghetti with four types of tomatoes, risotto with 'nduja and buffalo stracciatella cheese, "grandma's" meatballs, fried calamari and shrimp with tzatziki and spicy mayonnaise, along with, of course, a section dedicated to buffalo, the star of the menu. They also have good wines and dishes for the little ones. The service is warm-hearted.

Imbufalita - via Cesare Beccaria, 11d - 030 300309 -imbufalita.it

Brione

La Madia

It is with a deliberate mindset that one should choose to reach Brione, book well in advance, and settle into the realm of Michele Valotti, chef, and proprietor of one of Lombardy and Italy's finest trattorias.

The establishment is perched on the slope that rises from the Franciacorta territories of Gussago to an altitude of 600 metres. At the well-spaced tables, meticulously set without the customary tablecloths, you'll first receive a list of unusual aperitifs and then the two menus, which, post-pandemic, are offered instead of the traditional menu: seven or ten courses, competitively priced for an experience that, as mentioned above, requires a predisposition.

Forget, therefore, about the grilled dishes and casoncelli abundant in restaurants in the area, as well as the early dishes that still retain products from some small suppliers, and approach with a good dose of curiosity. Here, the manifesto of "living cuisine" by a skilled chef-proprietor prevails, expressed through numerous cornerstones, including the butchering of freely raised animals, the use of fermentations, a preference for natural and biodynamic wines, never forgetting the element of surprise, which accompanies the experience from the first to the last minute.

The menu usually begins with a series of vegetarian courses, surprising in their simplicity yet intriguing in their pairings and contrasts. Then come the acclaimed risottos and stuffed pastas, and the meats, whether goat, pork, or beef, displaying precise cooking and arriving in unprecedented combinations that depart from tradition. Naturally, the desserts are anything but ordinary. The experienced and loyal staff guide you, effortlessly reeling off the names of numerous ingredients, herbs, roots, and flowers.

La Madia - via Aquilini, 5 - 030 8940937 - trattorialamadia.it

Desenzano del Garda 

Osteria Gattolardo

A refuge that shelters passing travellers from the tourist signs that abound in the area and provides comfort to the locals. A warm and informal environment, friendly yet precise service, and then a beautiful local cuisine featuring a lot of lake fish expertly prepared in non-trivial recipes. There are also excellent options for carnivores. The wine cellar knows how to offer delightful surprises.

Osteria Gattolardo - via Gen. A. Papa, 13 - 030 9120427 - Instagram 

Gavardo

Pegaso

A historic establishment that reaffirms itself as a solid and reliable destination. The dining room reflects the personality of Adriano Liloni, the owner and amiable host, who here shares his passions - cooking and art. The menu is divided between dishes of sea fish and meat, along with a selection for vegetarians. Among the most requested dishes are the stuffed squid with red radicchio, "alla bucaniera" bavette, and the mixed seafood grill. The dessert menu is simple and delightful. Wines are chosen by Simone, with special attention to small wineries in the Brescia area. The service is always friendly and accommodating.

Pegaso - loc. Soprazocco - via Tormini, 72 - 0365 372719 - trattoriapegaso.eu 

Gussago

Antica Trattoria Piè del dos

A 17th-century house with thick walls and vaulted ceilings: two rooms and a veranda immersed in the silence of the ancient village beneath the hill of the Sanctuary of Madonna. The tavern is managed by Stefano Pazzaglia, a tireless seeker of good things and the dining room manager, where one can have fun, with his wife Resi Martinotti as the right-hand cook. A part of the menu is evergreen, such as casoncelli (a type of stuffed pasta) and "beef in oil," executed with mastery. Then there's room for seasonality: fish from Lake Iseo and the giant sheep of Lake Endine, spit-roast dishes, and mushrooms. All in the name of Franciacorta and Brescia cuisine, in generous portions and made with a sometimes ancient hand that is highly appreciated here. The selections of cured meats and cheeses are excellent, and the homemade desserts are irresistible. The wine cellar particularly pays homage to Franciacorta sparkling wines.

 Antica Trattoria Piè del dos - via Forcella, 4 - 030 2185358 - 030 2185358 - piedeldos.it

Iseo

Trattoria del Muliner 1964

The terrace overlooking the lake (or the sea) remains an added bonus for any establishment during the favourable months. However, it can be dispensed with if the experience is above average, as is the case with this trattoria. It boasts a patio and a beautiful dining room, managed by two young individuals with great passion and attention to the local area. Their cuisine surprises those unfamiliar with freshwater fish, a prominent feature on the menu, and convinces connoisseurs on the subject. It's a pleasure to indulge in the diverse lake offerings, delectable first courses, and various preparations of whitefish and perch. The Montisola sardines with polenta are a must-try, and the baked tench here becomes easily digestible. For those not fond of fish, there are mountain dairy ravioli with mushrooms and a remarkable "beef in oil" from Rovato. The service is on point, and the wine cellar encourages uncorking excellent selections at competitive prices.

Trattoria del Muliner 1964 - fraz. Clusane Sul Lago - via San Rocco, 16 - 030 9829206 - trattoriadelmuliner.it

Osteria ai Nidrì

The sign refers to the dialect term used for the ducklings that populate Lake Iseo. Here, Daniel Gallizioli offers eccentric recipes crafted with excellent technique, leveraging seasonal products from the region. As a result, the menu is modified approximately every three months. From the menu: lake fish tempura with lime and ginger mayonnaise, snails with American potato cream, borage chlorophyll, and crispy spring onion leaves, risotto with borage, nettle, and edible flowers, dried Montisola sardines with cheesy polenta, dandelion green sauce, and crispy polenta. The wine cellar and the adjacent wine shop showcase the local wine production. The service is punctual and accommodating.

Osteria ai Nidrì - via Colombera, 2 - 030 9177054 - osterianidri.it

Manerba del Garda

Dalie e Fagioli

Fabio Mazzolini and Antonella Varese are a successful couple, well-known around the lake: their establishment, facing the road connecting Salò to Desenzano, is always lively and crowded. It's also thanks to competitively priced menus and dishes that cover all culinary fronts: the vegetable realm with produce from the adjacent garden, the lake-focused with trout tartare and char, the land-based with roasted quails, and even the salty water one with seared octopus with pak choi. It's impossible to remove some signature dishes from the menu like the "bubba" (shrimp in filo pastry) and succulent ribs. The meal concludes with delights such as crispy cappuccino. Bread and breadsticks are freshly baked daily. The service is polished and youthful. A 17th-century house with thick walls and vaulted ceilings: two rooms and a veranda immersed in the silence of the ancient village beneath the hill of the Sanctuary of the Madonna. In the cellar, there are two hundred labels: local, national, and international wines.

Dalie e Fagioli - via Campagnola, 45 - 0365 1903311 - dalieefagioli.it

Marone

Trattoria Glisenti

If the lake takes centre stage in this comfortable setting of tradition - where there is also a more casual bistro offering - there are no shortages of meat specialties like the "beef in oil" with polenta. Nor is there a lack of a structured proposal dedicated to those who do not consume animal proteins, with unconventional dishes such as ravioli filled with Normandy seaweed. However, it's in the elaboration of the Lake Iseo basket that stands out in this charming family-run establishment. Thus, the standout features include a pie of salmon trout, small char patties, spaghetti with river prawns in saffron sauce, available in two tasting menus for 45 and 55 euros (the vegetarian option also comes as a first course, and desserts are available in a vegetarian version). A delightful local gem with affectionate service and a fitting wine cellar, worth visiting especially for the panoramic terrace.

Trattoria Glisenti - loc. Vello - via Provinciale, 34 - 030 987222 - trattoriaglisenti.it

Palazzolo sull'Oglio

Osteria della Villetta dal 1900

March 7, 2020, two days before the announcement of the first pandemic lockdown, the central large table at Osteria della Villetta was moved to the cellar. We saw it again on June 4, 2023, coincidentally the day it returned to dominating the room in front of the counter. There are significant dates in the history of a place, and these are, beyond the fact that the Rossi family never stood still during the most challenging period in recent decades. But seeing it return to its former state felt like the definitive return to normality: it's where those who haven't booked or want to hear the thousand stories of "Mauri" – the host who would rightfully fit among those narrated by Manzoni in The Betrothed – sit and invariably end up exchanging wine.

La Villetta, impeccably managed by the Rossi family along with collaborators who are truly part of the family, remains one of those places to mark on your car's navigator: some come (from all over Italy, seriously) because they've heard about it, while others have been sitting here for decades once a week. This ensures that the quality cannot diminish, starting from the products: the vegetables from the home garden, their own olive oil, and the local delights such as cured meats and lake fish.

The menu is orally presented and triggers the taste buds. Alongside some daily specials, there are classics like the mythical house trio or the beef in oil, but equally delicious are the tongue with pickled vegetables, veal with tuna sauce, vegetable lasagna, butter and sage gnocchi, Brescia-style tripe, fruit tarts, and an outstanding chocolate pudding. The cellar is well-stocked: there's the house's Pas Dosè Franciacorta, but they can uncork the best available, from Piedmont to France. Fun is guaranteed, but behind the informality and the feeling of being at home, there's a precise mechanism like clockwork, to which Gualtiero Marchesi, the first important regular customer, gave valuable advice. Now there are plenty of them.

Osteria della Villetta dal 1900 - Palazzolo sull'Oglio - via G. Marconi, 104 - 030 7401899 - osteriadellavilletta.it

Salò

Osteria dell'Orologio

Via Butturini is the refined Salò's alleyway: at number 26, the two shop windows and the Liberty-style sign indicate the most celebrated tavern in Lake Garda Bresciano, Orologio. It has an incredibly loyal audience, even beyond the Alps, especially in Bavaria, who sit in the three rooms not only to enjoy the cuisine but also the atmosphere created by the habitual aperitif-goers. Above the beautiful counter, a small blackboard dominates with many labels by the glass from a lady-owned winery that the passionate owner skillfully manages.

The menu has remained faithful over the centuries, with many references to the local area: pike with polenta, maccheroncini al Bagoss, beef in oil, excellent spit-roast, and seasonal kid. Always inquire if there's any lake fish available because it's prepared superbly. And leave room for dessert. The service is typical of a true tavern, overseen by the passionate owners, Alberto Giacomini and Sara Marini.

Osteria dell'Orologio - via Butturini, 26 - 0365 290158 - osteriadellorologiosalo.eatbu.com

Serle

L’Aquila Solitaria

On the hills of Serle, Fausto and Eva have revitalised the family agriturismo. Shedding their roles as hairdressers, after learning from Vittorio Fusari and Michele Valotti (La Madia di Brione, see below), the chef has crafted a bold proposal aimed at highlighting ingredients from small organic producers and those from their own garden, cooked using modern techniques and a good dose of creativity.

The eggs from the farm's hens are paired with a syphoned pea cream, toasted hazelnuts, and spit-roast garlic sauce, while dandelion from the meadows takes the spotlight in the excellent risotto with smoked butter and local red currants. Don't miss out on the hay-flavoured ice cream. The service is familial and cheerful. They have a few bottles of organic wine. Make a reservation and venture up here to treat yourself to a revitalising experience.

L’Aquila Solitaria - loc. Cariadeghe - via Casinetto, 12 - 030 6910695 - agriturismoaquilasolitaria.com

Tignale 

Osteria La Miniera

The exception for those (rightly) accrediting the lack of good simple eateries against many gourmet ones at Lake Garda Bresciano. Up above the lake, there's an old-style tavern run by a passionate couple, delightful in summer for its extensive outdoor seating and charming in winter with its cosy rustic rooms. The cuisine is simple, focusing on dishes from the water and mountains: a selection of appetisers, "bigoi" pasta with cod and crispy potatoes, excellent soups, even when it's warm. Among the main courses, fish dominates, varying with the season, featuring sardines, whitefish, perch, and eel prepared in various recipes. The "luccio in concia" (marinated pike) and spit-roast (only available for Sunday lunch) are always on offer.

Osteria La Miniera - fraz. Gradola - via Chiesa, 9a - 0365 760225 - gardaminiera.it

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