Only a few hours and a half by car separate Milan from Madesimo, which may not offer worldliness but more than makes up for it with natural scenery of incomparable beauty, including forests, lakes and waterfalls. The gastronomy is made up of simple products and strong flavours, ideal for these altitudes. As for wines, this is the kingdom of Nebbiolo, here called Chiavennasca, which vinified in purity or together with local grapes gives Valtellina Superiore Docg, with its historic sub-zones Maroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Vagella.
Where to eat in Madesimo (in Valchiavenna)
Albergo della Posta
Restaurant. Under the passionate management of the Sala family, at this address about 6 kilometres from Madesimo you will find hospitality in comfortable rooms, a well-stocked wine cellar with hundreds of Valtellina and national references, plus - dulcis in fundo - cuisine made properly in the wake of the most authentic tradition. Take a seat in classically furnished rooms to enjoy dishes with personality and flavour that never disappoint, from white pizzoccheri with butter and Casera cheese to venison steak with baked potatoes.
Albergo della Posta – frazione Montespluga via Dogana, 8 – 0343 5423 – albergopostaspluga.it
dallAle Bistrot
Panineria. The right place for a quick break, an aperitif or dinner, in an informal and lively atmosphere that invites you to socialise. The absolute protagonists are the sandwiches, not just any sandwiches, but carefully prepared in every component, starting with the various types of bread to go with the cured meats and cheese, the latter always in season. The options are many and all tasty, so it won't be difficult to find the one that suits your taste, and there is also some dish of the day. Paired mostly with beer, but also classic and non-classic cocktails.
dallAle Bistrot – via A. De Giacomi, 5 – 335 5727958 – Facebook
La Bicocca
Trattoria. One feels at home in this family-run establishment, where one happily spends a couple of hours in a convivial and relaxed atmosphere. The menu, recited verbally, consists of a few options, all of which are worthy and served in generous portions. Like the local cured meats and cheeses (special mention for the goat's ricotta), polenta taragna, patüsh (tagliolini made with chestnut flour), pizzoccheri, venison stew, braised beef, and mixed grill. Simple and delicious maison desserts. House wine, light bill.
La Bicocca – frazione Pianazzo via Calzaferri, 1 – 0343 53148 – Facebook
Il Cantinone
Restaurant. Open a few months a year, it is one of the best addresses in the region (and beyond). Just a few seats (to be booked well in advance) in rooms of refined elegance to enjoy the cuisine of Stefano Masanti, whose starting point is the territory, but he flies high with three tasting courses that are surprising for their creativity, cleanliness of flavour and balance. Seasonality and attention to waste are two other fundamental elements. The wine list, supervised by Raffaella Mazzina (Stefano's wife), is rich and deep.
Il Cantinone – via A. De Giacomi, 39 – 0343 56120 – ristorantecantinone.com
Chalet Capriolo
Trattoria. In the immediate vicinity of the pistes, a pretty chalet in typical style houses both a cosy 3-star restaurant and an interesting table open to outside guests. The cuisine, simple and robust, offers dishes from the traditional repertoire that make the most of local ingredients. It starts with the ever-present bresaola, followed by pizzoccheri, goulash, venison stew, braised venison, baked shin, and bratwürst with rösti and onions. Gourmand ending with walnut cake and strudel.
Chalet Capriolo – via G. Carducci, 33 – 0343 54332
Ristoro I Larici
Trattoria. Easily reached from the centre of town by the Larici cable car, it has spacious indoor and outdoor areas and a children's playground. It opens in the morning and runs until 5 p.m., unless you decide to have dinner, which is possible by reservation. Cafeteria, aperitifs with cocktails and wines, sandwiches, pizzeria with wood-fired oven and a cuisine that focuses on authenticity and flavours. The typical polenta taragna is always there, and in different variations. Another fixed presence is pizzoccheri, sciatt, taroz, goulash and game.
Ristoro I Larici – località Pian dei Larici – 339 5291120 – ristorolarici.com
Osteria Vegia
Trattoria. Right in the town centre, just a few steps from the church, an establishment with a centuries-old tradition that is still a solid bulwark in defence of Valtellina and Valchiavenna gastronomic traditions. Many illustrious people have taken a seat in its charming rustic and cosy rooms, starting with Giosuè Carducci, to whom a table has been dedicated. The pizzoccheri, the mixed meat with polenta, and the homemade desserts are among the highlights. There is no shortage of good labels to accompany everything.
Osteria Vegia - via Cascata, 7 - 0343 53335 - osteriavegia.it
Fermentation named Ferrari. Here are 8 sparkling wines that tell the changing icon of the Metodo Classico
"I didn't know how to do anything, now I drive the tractor to save my father-in-law's oil." The incredible story of Alba Guarini and her farm
Masserie, lavish appetizers, and panzerotti. That's why everyone wants to get married in Puglia
How Super Tuscans are changing. Here are 8 wines to try according to Gambero Rosso
The oldest barista in Italy is located in Piedmont: she opened her bar on May 1st, 1958
