Corsican Vermentino in eight (excellent) labels to discover

As we have already had occasion to point out, the precise origins of Vermentino remain controversial, even if they probably lie in the Ligurian–Provençal basin. In Italy it is cultivated with excellent results above all in Sardinia, Liguria and Tuscany, but outside Italy? Well, Corsica excels with its Vermentinu, genetically a little different both from the Sardinian version and from the peninsular clones.

Corsican Vermentino in the main denominations

Corsica boasts about 5,700 hectares of vineyards, mainly along the coastal areas, but also further inland, where vines are grown at altitudes of over 600 metres. Vermentino undoubtedly occupies a prominent place in production, with 1,400 hectares planted. This important white grape, found throughout the Mediterranean, is often called Malvoisie de Corse here, but it has nothing to do with our Malvasias.

foto di https://www.facebook.com/p/Domaine-Gentile

Moreover, thanks to the French denomination system, the variety is often not indicated in the wine’s name, which instead highlights the different Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée. The main one is the Patrimonio denomination, where Vermentino is the only white grape and can be considered the most prestigious area for the variety, characterised by clay–limestone soils; it is followed by the AOC Calvi in the North-West, with granite soils, and Sartène in the South-West, known for granite and sandy soils. But Vermentino is also cultivated in the AOC Figari, Porto Vecchio and Cap Corse, testifying to the widespread diffusion of this “maritime” variety.

Gambero Rosso tastings

Here are eight great Corsican Vermentinos produced by some of the island’s finest wineries in the main denominations.
The following tasting notes are by Giuseppe Carrus. The score is expressed in hundredths.

95/100
Corse Calvi Blanc 2024 – Clos Culombu
Lumio

A prestigious estate producing whites and reds with a strong territorial identity. We present the Calvi Blanc, from the denomination of the same name and made exclusively from Vermentino grapes. The nose is very varietal, revealing the main characteristics offered by the grape, starting with a touch of exotic fruit, accompanied by slightly tart but fascinating notes such as daisy and chamomile flowers. The palate is fresh and highly drinkable, with acidity ensuring smoothness, while the finish is all about savouriness.

94/100
Patrimonio Grande Expression Blanc 2022 – Domaine Gentile
Saint-Florent

This is the most representative white from Domaine Gentile, made solely from Vermentino grown in Patrimonio, at over 500 metres of altitude. The 2022 we present, two years after harvest, shows no signs of decline; on the contrary, it is intact and vibrant, with aromas of yellow fruit, wild herbs, sweet spices and candied lemon. The palate is dense and enveloping, yet never flabby or tired: acidity and sapidity join forces, driving the sip to a very flavourful finish.

94/100
Patrimonio Cru des Agriate Blanc 2024 – Domaine Giacometti
Santo Pietro di Tenda

A family-run winery operating since 1987 within the Casta and Patrimonio denominations. In the latter, there are fewer than 5 hectares of Vermentino from which the Cru des Agriate is produced, a wine of great savouriness and depth. Despite its youth, it offers complex aromas of white flowers, lemon leaf and a light spicy touch. The palate is smooth, highly savoury, even giving a pseudo-tannic sensation. Freshness is key, marked by masterful acidity directly derived from the limestone soils of this area.

93/100
Bonifacio Blanc Tarra di Sognu 2024 – Clos Canarelli
Figari

Clos Canarelli is one of the most convincing wineries in the south of the island, and it proves it with this Bonifacio Blanc from the Tarra di Sognu line. The 2024 vintage already promises excellent ageing potential, but its drinkability is guaranteed right now. Aromas range from white-fleshed fruit to citrus touches and aromatic herbs; the palate is savoury, with a fruit sweetness (but not excess sugars), and the sip delivers a fine balance of acidity and sapidity.

92/100
Patrimonio Menhir Blanc 2022 – Domaine Montemagni
Patrimonio

Patrimonio is one of the most important denominations when it comes to Vermentino. Menhir Blanc is a great wine which, three years after harvest, still delivers primary notes and incredible youthfulness. A wine of great substance, where the material is supported beautifully by refreshing, well-integrated acidity. On top of that, there is no shortage of savouriness, which emerges particularly in the finish, where the aromas noted on the nose reappear, starting with lemon zest.

92/100
Corse Sartène Blanc 2023 – Castellu di Baricci
Sartène

A small artisanal estate producing wines within the Sartène appellation. The Blanc is 100% Vermentino, and the 2023 vintage seems to offer textbook complexity. The nose is multifaceted, playing on spicy tones and wild herbs, with fruit notes highlighted by loquat and a beautiful hint of everlasting flower (elicriso). The palate is solid, with sapidity shaping the sip, accompanied by an enveloping sensation provided by perfectly integrated alcohol. The finish is fresh and very clean.

90/100
Sartène Cuvée Saparale Blanc 2024 – Domaine Saparale
Sartène

Another 100% Vermentino from the Sartène denomination, this is a fresh, fragrant white characterised by notes of white flowers, as well as peach, pear and exotic fruit. The palate is certainly pleasing, enveloping the mouth; the alcohol adds warmth but is well integrated, harmonised by a lovely savouriness that emerges above all in the final part of the sip.

89/100
Ajaccio Blanc Tradition 2023 – Clos Capitoro
Cauro

The Blanc Tradition is made only from Vermentino grapes grown within the AOC Ajaccio, on granite soils that undoubtedly lend the wine great character. Beautiful aromas of candied lemon and aromatic herbs mark the nose, which anticipates a slender, graceful yet persistent palate. The acidity brings freshness, and the sip gains depth thanks to excellent flavour.