Tre Bicchieri in Campania
Among the 20 Tre Bicchieri awarded to Campania’s wines, 19 are whites. It’s a number that speaks volumes about the natural disposition of a region that doesn’t accept filters or half measures, a region endowed with precious and original peaks of flavor, both in terms of gastronomy and oenology. Of late the union between food and wine, which go hand in hand throughout Italy and the world, has grown even stronger in Campania thanks to the increased popularity of Neapolitan pizza, which has brought with it increasingly careful production and brilliant regional wines. This year we appreciated a favorable vintage for whites—on average 2020 gave rise to wines that nicely balance freshness and maturity, with a supporting acidity and structure that will allow them to age nicely in the bottle, a precious gift not yet fully exploited. Both Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino are truly enjoyable at least three or four years after vintage. At that point you can see a clear change, but the same could be said of Falanghina del Sannio, a white often considered to be drunk a few months after harvest, when in reality, two years after, it begins to reveal a completely different taste profile.
The best wines of Campania
The question of longevity leads us to Taurasi, an appellation that has always made age a key featyre, and that today is redefining its stylistic approach. From time to space, Campania is above all a region to visit glass in hand. We go from Caserta to magnificent Cilento, with its vineyards that feel the presence of the sea; patches of land along the Amalfi Coast, glimpses of Ischia or ungrafted vines on the slopes of Vesuvius. Before closing, we are happy to welcome two wineries into the Tre Bicchieri club. The first is Passo delle Tortore, an Irpinia producer (a partnership of four young entrepreneurs); the second is the historic Masseria Frattasi, which has been highlighting the attributes of Falanghina del Taburno since the 1950s.