Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Montepulciano is a small Tuscan town that doesn’t need much of an introduction: straddling the Val di Chiana and the Val d’Orcia, it has a very long history that dates back to the 4th century B.C., when these areas were inhabited by the Etruscan populations. From the town, located on the top of a hill at 605 meters above sea level, and that is certainly worth a visit, moving east for a few kilometers we arrive in the locality of Acquaviva. This is where Fattoria del Cerro is located. The Montepulciano reality certainly represents the symbol of an articulated wine mosaic created over the years by the Unipol Insurance Group, which can also boast La Poderina in Montalcino, Monterufoli in Monteverdi Marittimo in the Pisa area and Còlpetrone, in Umbria. With its 600 hectares of property, of which 181 are vineyards (and 93 included in the Register of Vino Nobile), Fattoria del Cerro is the largest private producer of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The breadth and variety of exposure of its vineyards guarantee the possibility of selecting, depending on the vintage, the best grapes and from here, for over forty years now, hail some of the most important labels, which have contributed to the growth and to the success of the name in years that were crucial to say the least from a marketing point of view.
“When we took possession of the company in 1978,” General Manager Antonio Donato affirms, “the DOCG Vino Nobile had not yet entered into force and was only effective starting from the 1980 harvest. A particular period and in a certain sense pioneering, at least for this territory. A historical moment in which, Fattoria del Cerro however entered with proactive force and enthusiasm, aware of the considerable potential of the nascent DOCG and the desire to become one of the main protagonists of the quality rebirth of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.” Since the construction of the new production and aging cellar in 1985, Fattoria del Cerro has constantly invested both in the cellar and in the vineyards, a path that has never been interrupted and continues to this day: “the shared goal in our estate is to make a important contribution to the new sustainability paradigm, where all operational processes can be consistent with these basic values, which are the present for us but will represent even more the future of doing business.” In addition to the strictly productive aspect, the other fundamental aspect of the farm estate, which unites all the Group’s realities, is hospitality: “We have always considered wine tourism to be the main key to the story of our company. In particular, at Fattoria del Cerro we have recently completely renovated our relais Villa Grazianella, both for the welcome part and for the gastronomic proposal. Our hospitality wishes to convey not only our estate products but also the philosophy underlying their production, which is mainly focused on respect for the territory.” And despite the many difficulties linked to the pandemic, the company’s turnover in 2020 recorded an increase of 10% compared to the previous year, thanks also to exports: “We export 50% of our production to over 30 countries around the world; the main markets are the United States, the Netherlands, Germany and Russia: undoubtedly pulling the most weight is our Vino Nobile.”
At the base of the production of Vin Nobile di Montepulciano there is a grape variety called prugnolo gentile. Years ago it was thought to be a variety in itself, but studies on the plant’s DNA proved what was suspected, namely that the grape was simply a local biotype of Sangiovese. Over the centuries this grape has adapted to the climate and characteristics of the area, returning, in the best versions, elegant, refined wines, but at the same time with excellent structure: that were in one word, “noble.”
The result of a hot vintage, the Nobile di Montepulciano ’17 by Fattoria del Cerro presents itself with openly fruity, sweet and concentrated aromatic tones, with the suggestions of oak to finish off a generous nose. On the palate it triggers a tight and continuous gustatory progression until the wide finish, still on sweet fruit. The olfactory tones of the Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva ’16 are darker and more spicy, which in the mouth is full and with an articulated and enveloping structure.