Previews TreBicchieri. The best wines of Puglia

Sep 21 2022, 10:55 | by Gambero Rosso

On the website all the official previews of wines awarded with Tre Bicchieri. Here below, Puglia

Wine in Puglia. The primacy of primitivo and the confirmation of negroamaro

Over the past decade, Puglia has become one of Italy's most important regions for quality wine production, and it continues to grow, as confirmed by the number of Tre Bicchieri earned this year by the region's producers (some 25). It was also the decade of primitivo and the appellations that represent the grape: Gioia del Colle Primitivo and Primitivo di Manduria, which this year won seven Tre Bicchieri each; two other wines made from primitivo also crossed the finish line, confirming the leading role that the variety plays in the region. Puglia's other main cultivar is negroamaro—in addition to two Salice Salentinos, it features in ranges that have been key to the region's growth, like Vallone, Cosimo Taurino and Leone de Castris. On the other hand, the picture concerning certain grapes and areas that seemed destined to rapid and constant growth was a bit less clear, like Castel del Monte, with nero di troia, and Brindisi, with susumaniello—at least for now, their success seems dependent on the “usual suspects”, like Torrevento or Rubino.

Puglia: the land of great cooperative wineries

In this light, the decisive role played by cooperation must be emphasized, both in terms of maintaining the territory and the quality of the wines produced, with the most important cooperatives leading the way. Testifying to the fact is our Cooperative of the Year award, which thanks to Due Palme goes to Puglia for the second straight year.

International taste and sustainability

Two final comments. In our tastings we are seeing an ever-increasing number of wines, in particular based on primitivo, with a sweetness that's far beyond the traditional plushness that distinguishes the type, so much so that it's become a kind of stylistic signature—and all mainly because of its appeal for Asian consumers. But such a profile also make these wines less and less appealing to Italians. This year's global socio-political crisis is there to remind us that focusing only on certain markets can turn a great opportunity into a serious problem, especially if you think you have a ready-made formula. The other observation concerns what we've been reporting for several years now: the ultra-heavy bottles that seem to have also become a sort of “stylistic practice” among Apulian wineries. It's a choice that we have long defined as unacceptable in the modern world, openly contradicting the principles of sustainability that many producers profess to follow. Putting your wine in a bottle that weighs more than a kilo is not only not a guarantee of success but also drives away many consumers. Think people. Think.

Special Award Italian Wines 2023. Cooperative Winery of the Year

The winery guided by Angelo Maci is a leading player in Salento winemaking, both in terms of numbers and quality. A reality in which cooperation plays a decisive role in ensuring a constant level of production. For 25 years of great work in the area, Due Palme is our Cooperative of the Year.

> Discover the Tre Bicchieri 2023 wines region by region

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