Filming location for productions like LadyHawke and The Name of the Rose; National Geographic has listed it as one of the most beautiful castles in the world, it is certainly among the highest in Europe and the most evocative in Abruzzo: the only hamlet of Calascio, Rocca Calascio gathers tourists from all over the world thanks to its unique panorama. The castle's fame, however, must not overshadow another village in the area, an enchanted village immersed in a fairytale setting, Santo Stefano di Sessanio. Historical workshops and ancient traditions ensure a journey back in time, even at the table.
Santo Stefano di Sessanio, the kingdom of workshops
These are villages founded on sheep farming, agriculture and transhumance. Santo Stefano di Sessanio was once famous for the production of carfagna wool, a particular material used to make military uniforms. Passing through what at a first, distracted glance might seem a ghost town, one realises that the community today is more alive than ever. Getting lost in the limestone alleyways, it is easy to come across old workshops, guardians of ancient trades and knowledge.
La Bottega di Antonella is a perfect example, a fairy-tale place where you can find handmade soaps, candles, cushions and handcrafted objects of all kinds, as well as La Bottega delle Arti e dei Mestieri. Then there is Nonna Peppina, with local gastronomic specialities that tell the story of Abruzzo cuisine at its best, including preserves, pasta and desserts, and I Sapori del Borgo, a paradise for biscuit lovers.
Where to eat in Santo Stefano di Sessanio
La Bettola di Geppetto
Restaurant. In a renovated old stone house with rustic-style dining rooms, this is an address to keep in mind for simple, tasty food without burdening your stomach and wallet. Meals can start with crostini, cured meats and cheeses, then lentil soup (exquisite, typical of this area), ravioli with sheep's ricotta dressed in browned butter and saffron, arrosticini, and grilled lamb. Sweet endings can include homemade desserts and accompany everything with a good bottle of local wine from the small list available.
La Bettola di Geppetto – via Principe Umberto - facebook.com/LaBidiGi/
Locanda Sotto gli Archi
Restaurant. Sextantio is one of the jewels in the town's crown. A widespread “diffuso” hotel that offers hospitality to those who come to experience the suggestive Abruzzo scenery, which also provides a fine table at the Locanda. A recommendable landing place for the beautiful atmosphere provided by the stone arches and the old fireplace that dominates the interior. The cuisine is typically peasant, the wine list not predictable and in line with the proposal.
Locanda sotto gli archi – via degli Archi - facebook.com/sextantiolocandasottogliarchi
L’Elisir del Poeta
Restaurant. In the afternoon it is the ideal place for a good cup of tea with some pastries, in the evening the kitchen offers hearty, local dishes in a warm and cosy atmosphere. Homemade pasta, artisanal cheeses and simple recipes are the stars of the menu, and the friendly service and well-kept ambience do the rest.
L’Elisir del Poeta – Piazza Cristoforo Colombo - facebook.com/lelisirdelpoeta/
Il Ristoro degli Elfi
Restaurant. In the village of fairytales, the restaurant “of the elves” could not be missing. A family run cosy place, where you can stop for a warm meal in perfect homemade style: the arrosticini are never lacking, but the cream of lentils and, when in season, the spaghetti alla chitarra with mushrooms and truffle are also worth tasting. Local cured meats and cheeses are ideal to open the dances.
Il Ristoro degli Elfi – via delle Aie, 18
La Locanda sul Lago
Restaurant. The ideal place to relax after a day of hiking. The service is fast and friendly, the cuisine simple and straightforward, made from carefully selected ingredients. The meat is good, but there are also nice vegetarian dishes, such as goat’s and sheep’s milk ricotta ravioli with fresh tomatoes, or crepes with porcini mushrooms. The homemade biscuits to munch on at the end of the meal are excellent.
La Locanda sul Lago – via del Lago - lalocandasullago.it/
Ovino
Wine bar. A shop with a kitchen that is perfect for a quick stop: in addition to buying local products, here you can stop for a tasty snack with a good glass of wine and a platter of traditional cured meats and cheeses, a tasty bruschetta and a few other appetisers, either homemade or sourced at local shops.
Ovino – Piazza Medicea - facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057473979281&locale=it_IT
Rocca Calascio, where to eat near the Castle
Santo Stefano di Sessanio is an excellent starting point to visit the castle of Rocca Calascio, which can also be reached on foot - with a walk of about half an hour uphill - or by shuttle bus to the nearest drop-off point. From the top there is a breathtaking view over the Tirino Valley, and next to the ruins there is also the ancient Church of Santa Maria della Pietà, a sacred place surrounded by nature that deserves a moment. Here, too, there is no shortage of shops, starting with the gastronomic ones, where it is possible to stop for a bite to eat.
Pane e Vino
Food shop. Opened in 2022 at the foot of the castle, it has already become a safe haven for gourmets who can choose from local cheeses and salumi, seasoned bread crostini and stuffed focaccia, to be enjoyed with a good glass of wine. Those who do not want to stop to eat can still visit the shop to buy jams, honey, pasta and artisanal liqueurs.
Pane e Vino - facebook.com/profile.php?id=100083413454767
La Taberna di Rocca Calascio
Restaurant. After visiting the castle, a stop at the taberna is a must, to rest in front of a good home-made plate of food. The lamb arrosticini are among the house specialities, but the legume soups are no less impressive, especially the one with Santo Stefano di Sessanio lentils. A lean, simple and effective menu built on quality products.
La Taberna di Rocca Calascio – via della Torre - facebook.com/latabernadiroccacalascio/?locale=it_IT
Pane Amaro
Sandwich shop. A stone room with a timeless atmosphere, with cast-iron pots hanging on the walls and wooden tables: the proposal is what you would expect from such a place, rustic and tasty. Sandwiches generously filled with local produce, to be eaten with a good glass of wine.
Pane Amaro – Vico Notar Fulgenzio, 5 - facebook.com/paneamaro/?locale=it_IT
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