In Milan, an Ecuadorian and a Cuban open Enoteca Shiua

May 5 2024, 13:37
Opening in via Solari in Milan, a new wine bar that will offer only natural wines and for those who do not like wine, organic juices. Daniel and Yelines, on their first venture in hospitality, will try to change the minds of those who think that natural wine is less good than the classic one

by Simona Sirianni

It is without a doubt one of the symbols of Italian culture. A tradition with ancient origins that over time has become a real heritage of our culture. So much so that some vineyards have been considered so valuable as to become UNESCO heritage sites. There are many people who love wine, a great protagonist of both popular and gourmet cuisine. It must be said, however, that while most people appreciate the classic bottle of Amarone or Prosecco, there are also those who prefer artisanal products. What makes the difference is above all the production method: natural wine is born in opposition to large industry, with the ambition to produce wine with fewer interventions in the vineyard and cellar.

Shiua Milano, the new natural wine bar

Among those who have chosen this kind of proposal for their customers are Daniel and Yelines, he Ecuadorian and she Cuban, who on Friday, May 3, open their little dream: its name is Shiua Milano, a venue in via Savona 43 in Milan, where for the aperitif they will offer what they have always wanted.

"It will be a natural wine dispensing bar - Daniel tells us - to which we will add a small gastronomy. The idea is to mix Italian flavors and tastes with those of my homeland and that of my wife. I would like to be able to explain and make people understand what natural really means, because often they think it's something very different from what it actually is. Often you hear that natural wine stinks, but this is not true, if it is done well."

No chemicals in natural wines

As mentioned earlier, it is the process that changes: "There is no chemistry here, neither in the field nor in the cellar. The only intervention that man makes is to accompany the winemaking: so harvesting, putting it in the cellar, pressing. He follows it, in short, in its becoming wine, but only to prevent it from becoming vinegar, in a few words. Unfortunately, some people pass off strong odor as a typical characteristic of natural wines when it's not. But the natural world isn't extreme, it shouldn't be unpleasant, but quite the opposite: it should be enjoyable, pleasant, clean. That's my philosophy."
Daniel takes care of the wine list, but in the venue there will also be his wife and two partners who take care of the kitchen, who are none other than Daniel's parents: "I have been working in this field for several years, I am a sommelier and therefore I look for various distributors, but I also really like to try small producers. The choice is then made by balancing quality and price, the crisis is felt, even though we are in Milan. In the future, however, I would like to choose only completely unknown wineries, small rarities."

The union between Italian flavors and Latin American tastes

Alongside the wines, there will also be a special selection of juices, a rather curious pairing: "But not even so much, I thought that not everyone wants or can drink wine so I try to offer them an alternative. That said, however, to give a non-alcoholic choice, I went for juices, obviously super natural, fresh, vegan. They are all from South Tyrol and all based on apple juice, to which the producer adds, depending on the case, blackcurrant, peach, hops."
To accompany the drinks, there will also be platters of cold cuts and cheeses and bruschetta, "what we will put on top, however, will be a bit special, because we will use, in part, products from my land. Products all selected and niche."

So let's go, today it opens

It opens, therefore, in via Solari, in one of the coolest areas of the city: "I'm nervous, excited. It's the first time. I'm not doing an inauguration at the moment, today we open to the public, we see what they think of my idea, then we'll see. Tomorrow, after seeing if the venue takes off, I would like to make it a small restaurant too. Now, however, we focus on what we have."

One curiosity, however, must be removed: why the name Shiua? "Shuar is an indigenous people of the Amazon, it is part of my culture: it means people of nature or defender of nature. It has ancient origins, even before the Incas, and they have an incredible philosophy: they fight for their territory and their beliefs against Westernization and the expansion of multinational corporations. They never touch nature, except when they believe it is nature opening up to them. And I refer precisely to this concept."

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