We tried Locatelli’s new restaurant in London: here’s what it’s like

On one side: Monet, Caravaggio, Renoir. On the other: maritozzi and tagliatelle with ragù. On paper, Giorgio Locatelli’s move might have seemed like a kind of egotistical boldness: closing his Locanda to open inside one of the world’s most prestigious museums. Almost as if to say that Italian cuisine belongs only among its peers – artists among artists.
And yet, what Locatelli has done is a decision that is undoubtedly both successful and thoughtful, one that feels more like a popular dialogue between the city of London and a dining experience that is indeed elegant and refined, but ultimately simple and at times humble—true to his usual style.

Royal Pappardelle

We visited one month after the opening, in the Sainsbury Wing of the National Gallery, at the restaurant that bears his name. Outside, Trafalgar Square pulses with energy and speed. Inside, the composed and majestic austerity of the exhibited collections.
At the entrance, several signs: “For reservations at Locatelli, enter here”: initially, it feels a bit off-putting—you think you have to queue, speak to a security guard. But no, you walk in like any other museum visitor, climb the grand staircase to the first floor, and there it is—the most talked-about restaurant of recent months, which even caught the attention of the British Royals, who were among the first guests to try the pappardelle with broad beans, pecorino and rocket, and the hunter’s chicken with polenta.

Subtle elegance, neutral tones, wooden floors, marble details: everything evokes a minimal yet refined simplicity, where the play of light comes from the vast windows, and the open layout creates a seamless flow between the artwork and the museum setting itself.
This simplicity is reflected in every dish on the menu—perhaps the real winning card of a chef who has chosen not to betray his essence or his idea of hospitality, but rather to play his hand at exactly the right time.
Italian dishes that are understandable to everyone, and decidedly accessible prices for a city where even window-shopping can be costly: Locatelli’s new era puts Italian cuisine on the high street—simple and straightforward—while giving it the right stage to be appreciated and understood.

Italian-style breakfast

Even if we take a purely business perspective, we immediately see how, in a time of crisis for the restaurant industry—particularly for fine dining—opening a venue in a location visited daily by people from all over the world, with a constant and bustling flow, is an undeniably smart move.
Especially when you consider the very structural soul of the place—so open in its design that it feels inclusive and welcoming.
And then there’s the bar on the lower floor, right next to the museum’s information desks, which Locatelli also opened—another spot-on idea, even more pop and playful. The chef decided to bring a touch of Roman flair into an exclusive British atmosphere with Bar Giorgio, offering Italian breakfasts and afternoon treats.

Its star? The maritozzo, available in both sweet and savoury versions, which has undoubtedly won the title of “yeast-raised pastry of the year” in the hearts of Italians—and abroad too.
Here as well, prices remain very accessible—around ten euros for a generously sized maritozzo. Of course, compared to prices in Rome, some might raise an eyebrow, but it’s not every day you bite into a whipped cream maritozzo while still gazing at Van Gogh’s Sunflowers in your mind’s eye.

Spot-on cooking

We could go on listing dish after dish, recipe after recipe, among those on the menu at both Locatelli’s restaurant and bar: calamarata with gurnard, aubergine with soy mayonnaise, or veal tortelloni. But what struck us most was something else entirely.
There’s no doubt about the chef’s cooking—he even earned Due Forchette at the latest Gambero Rosso International awards for Italian restaurants abroad.
Spending a day at one of his tables, it becomes clear what Locatelli’s mission is: to be a standard-bearer for Italian cuisine around the world, without unnecessary frills, but with a focus on quality, tradition, and cultural respect.
And perhaps with that touch of humility needed to stand tall in a location of such stature and personality.

Locatelli remains humble—even when he agrees to meet a young Italian fan. “The chef will be here in half an hour, wait at the restaurant desk,” says one of the women at the entrance.
This too is hospitality—especially when your name is Locatelli.