Halfway through the tasting, we see perplexed faces. Partly it's the heat of Vinitaly, with its tight and frenetic rhythms, but there's something else. And it has nothing to do with the quality of the wines we're discussing: a vertical tasting of Marche's Pecorino from 2023 to 2008, 15 vintages from 15 wineries of Piceno. Some producers are thinking about how many bottles are left in the cellar of that vintage, very few, others openly admit to having made interpretation mistakes in the course of this variety. In the second group, we journalists also insert ourselves, who have clearly underestimated the resilience over time and the evolution of Marche's or Abruzzo's Pecorino. One clarification, if today we are here to indulge in Pecorino, we owe it to one person: Guido Cocci Grifoni. In 1983 he discovered vines planted in an absurd place for viticulture, at 1000 meters altitude near Arquata del Tronto, a semi-abandoned village in the last foothills of Marche towards Lazio. He studies the variety, plants it, and enhances it, effectively saving it from extinction. Today it is a precious source of wealth for the Piceno and Abruzzo territories (Cataldi Madonna played a crucial role in its communication), where it seriously challenges the historic Trebbiano-Montepulciano competition.
Mature is better: a new life for Pecorino
Back to the glass, the difference between the youngest wines and those in their early maturity (at least 5 years of aging) is enormous. And the first consideration is not about aromas but about texture. Marche's Pecorino manages to combine juice, power, and freshness in often very original registers and difficult to schematize. In the same sip, it manages to be rich and opulent, and at the same time, lively and gritty. A characteristic that emerges strongly over time, with wines that sometimes seem very voluminous at the beginning. And then with evolution, you find them incredibly leaner and more agile.
In short, it becomes really difficult to get bored. It is also where wood and flesh seem overwhelming, it still manages to find speed and movement on the palate. We are talking about a distinctive style, with progressions that are more focused on flavor than on acidity, with notes of dried fruit and spices that relaunch in very surprising evolutions. From the tasting, it emerges that many producers have changed interpretation several times over these years, precisely because of this changing character that is difficult to focus on. And yet, in terms of value for money, some of the most interesting things on a national level are found. And we are convinced, also in this case, that the aging potential is superior to many red wines. And still too little explored.
Highlights from the Pecorino vertical
Offida Pecorino Irata 2020 - Clara Marcelli
A very personal style, with an open and ripe fruit that anticipates an engaging gustatory naturalness. Juicy notes of apple and almond vibrate thanks to a perfectly integrated sapidity. Tempting.
Falerio Pecorino Onirocep 2016 - Pantaleone
What momentum! The vintage exalts a profile played on significant acidity tension on which it builds a register of spices and flowers. It has citrusy grit and a tense and savory palate, it is not even halfway through its evolutionary journey. Impressive.
Offida Pecorino 2013 - De Angelis
Rich, full, muscular. Notes of dried fruit, peach, and toasted almond anticipate a creamy and well-stretched palate, fat and satisfying. It manages to find an unexpected liveliness, with a very inviting soft fruit. Perfect with well-spiced white meats.
Offida Pecorino Io sono Gaia non sono Lucrezia 2012 - Le Caniette
Gaia loves spices: white pepper, camphor, even ginger. Then come the medicinal herbs, the menthol note, and a mouth that changes abruptly. It leaves behind linearity, ignites and restarts, with a complex and deep articulation.
Offida Pecorino Reve 2010 - Velenosi
A fruity and toasty start, with a hint of salted caramel and licorice. The palate confirms itself voluminous, with tones of peach and papaya and a very well-integrated wood. It has an unusual balance point, the finish is lively, harmonious, and spicy.
Offida Pecorino Ciprea 2009 - Capecci
Sensations of walnuts and almonds, timid attack. The palate is another story: sharp, with inviting notes of lemon zest and sesame, but also an unusual and tasty spiciness. The finish is balanced, savory, and decidedly persistent. What character!
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