Montefalco remains the region’s star appellation but it's not the only one. Here are the best wines from Umbria, Italy's greenest heart.
A record number of Tre Bicchieri for this small region is a strong signal that something’s afoot. It’s important to underline, however, everything that goes on outside the scores. There are more than a few wine producing territories on the rise in Umbria, with the most well-known affirming their importance and some lesser-known showing why they are so well-suited (thanks to a number of noteworthy offerings). Montefalco remains the region’s star appellation. It’s an area that we can’t only reduce to Sagrantino, considering that Montefalco Rosso is, by now, a great mealtime wine, highly drinkable and supple, not to mention Montefalco Bianco (Grechetto, Trebbiano Toscano and other authorized grapes) and Montefalco Grechetto. This last cultivar is also having excellent results elsewhere, especially in Colli Martani and Todi, where the recently discovered Trebbiano Spoletino is also making its presence felt. Umbria’s whites are, by now, a consolidated fact, especially if we consider Orvieto, which is taking huge steps towards reaffirming its status as one of the region’s (and peninsula’s) most important white winemaking districts. But returning to the reds, it’s impossible to not cite Trasimeno’s success, especially those offerings made with Gamay Perugino (a variety that belongs to the Grenache family) and Narni’s Ciliegiolo. Thanks to the painstaking work of a group of vine growers, recent years have given rise to wines of extreme finesse, freshness and typicity in their various varietal expressions. We conclude with an obligatory mention for Torgiano and its Sangioveses, which once again spawned an outstanding Vigna Monticchio, their 2013, the wine’s 14th Tre Bicchieri. In Montefalco four wineries took home a gold: Bellafonte, Caprai, Pardi (with their Sagrantino) and Tenuta Castelbuono (with their Rosso). Todi saw two wines in the limelight, and both Grechettos. One is Roccafiore’s FiorFiore, the other is Rovi di Peppucci, the winery’s first Tre Bicchieri. In Orvieto, three wines already known to our readers obtained our highest score: Decugnano dei Bari’s 2017 Bianco, Castello della Sala’s classically-styled 2016 Cervaro della Sala and Barberani’s delicious 2015 Calcaia, testifying to how well the territory’s botrytis sweet wines can do.
Adarmando ’16 – Giampaolo Tabarrini
Cervaro della Sala ’16 – Castello della Sala
Fiorfiore ’16 – Roccafiore
Montefalco Rosso Ziggurat ’16 – Tenute Lunelli
Montefalco Sagrantino 25 Anni ’14 – Arnaldo Caprai
Montefalco Sagrantino Collenottolo ’14 – Tenuta Bellafonte
Montefalco Sagrantino Sacrantino ’14 – F.lli Pardi
Orvieto Cl. Sup. Il Bianco ’17 – Decugnano dei Barbi
Orvieto Muffa Nobile Calcaia ’15 – Barberani
Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino Anteprima Tonda ’16 – Antonelli – San Marco
Todi Grechetto I Rovi ’16 – Cantina Peppucci
Torgiano Rosso Rubesco V. Monticchio Ris. ’13 – Lungarotti