The Syracuse restaurant that has become one of Sicily’s most coveted gourmet destinations

The unexpected arrival in Syracuse — for the very first time ever — of a Michelin “macaron” at the end of 2023 surprised only those, and there are quite a few, who are not deeply familiar with the culinary world and the milieu of chefs. The astonishment, along with a dash (inevitable) of barely disguised envy for the prestigious recognition awarded to young Giuseppe Torrisi, at the helm of the refined Cortile Spirito Santo in Ortigia, rewarded a chef with an exceptional background and extensive experience (not just a few months or weeks!) in internationally renowned fine dining establishments — experience well worth knowing.

Giuseppe Torrisi

Let’s go in order: Palazzo Salomone (13 rooms), the luxury hotel housing the restaurant, opened in 2020 just a stone’s throw from the magnificent Castello Maniace, the imposing fortress linked to the memory of Frederick II, king, emperor, and a radiant, eternal myth of Sicily. It was born from the vision, initiative, and passion of two couples (Francesco Boscarino and Elisa Di Giorgio, Luigi Latino and Simona Castelluccio) — whose professional lives lie outside the world of hospitality and gastronomy — passionate about travel and high-quality food, and eager to endow their city, Syracuse, with an establishment catering to high-end tourism, which is abundant all year round in this splendid Greek city that once dared to rival Athens itself. During recruitment, the four founders (now the women alone manage the whole enterprise) were deeply impressed by Torrisi’s CV, as well as by his polite and mature manner, clearly committed to teamwork and shared goals, free of arrogance or presumption — qualities rightly unwelcome to those who truly understand the world.

Who is Giuseppe Torrisi

The talented young man — trained at the Culinary Institute of Catania — began a lengthy apprenticeship right after his studies, as is customary in the training of many young chefs. This took him to top restaurants between Taormina and Catania, followed by twelve impressive years abroad: nine in French- and German-speaking Switzerland, and three in France. Two pivotal experiences stand out — the first between Saint Moritz and Verbier in Switzerland, the second in Saulier, in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region of France, where Torrisi honed his craft. Most notably, his time in France at La Côte d’Or, under Bernard Loiseau, left an indelible mark over three fruitful years, for several significant reasons. We are talking about a Michelin three-star institution at the top of the global scene, hailed by critics and public alike. Loiseau, one of the most revered and sensitive chefs on the planet — indeed a genius — tragically entered the annals of culinary history due to his devastating and painful suicide, driven by malicious rumours of a potential loss of a Michelin star at his famed establishment. He later became a central figure in literature too, thanks to the memorable book The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine, written by his close friend Rudolph Chelminski, a distinguished gourmet and prose stylist.

What’s on the menu at Cortile Spirito Santo

Returning to the present, our most recent visits revealed a cuisine of both sea and land (and vegetarian options), deeply rooted in local terroir, including the Iblean Mountains and Mount Etna. The cooking continues to evolve, marked by both excellence in flavour and high technical precision, often enriched by innovative flourishes. Torrisi delights and moves with dishes that are strikingly beautiful and colourful but, above all, flavourful and original. He constantly tries to raise the bar of complexity, at times infusing it with playfulness, allusions, and subtle “provocations”, succeeding — with elegance — in crafting haute cuisine dishes that are simultaneously authentically Sicilian and accessible to every diner, even those not necessarily gourmets or food obsessives.

From four tasting menus priced at €110, €120, €140, and €160, or from the extensive à la carte selection, here are a few highlights to provide a sense of the offering: one might begin with a tantalising cipollata di seppia with guanciale, broccoli, and sea urchin, followed by the flavourful and intense ricordo di una “scacciata” catanese — ravioli with cauliflower, sausage, PDO Pecorino cheese, and sumac. Choosing a main course presents a delightful dilemma, with memorable dishes like the local lamb with zabaglione, salsify, and tarragon, or rana pescatrice alla mugnaia with fennel fronds and asparagus. Dessert is another battleground of temptation — we sampled two: Omaggio al Bosca with chocolate, tobacco, and rum, and Made in Sicily, an unusual and wonderfully successful harmony of almond textures, Mothia salt, and extra virgin olive oil.

The wine list features world-renowned names, niche labels, and precious local discoveries, many available by the glass, complemented by passionate and empathetic service. The youthful front-of-house team stands out for their poise, dedication, and expertise. It is only right to mention the key figures: Raffaele Condò, restaurant manager; maître Rosario Campailla; and Antonino Amato, a nationally renowned sommelier.