The restaurant founded by a former seminarian that conquered Sorrento with its cannelloni

by Michele Armano

On the main street of Sorrento’s historic centre, immersed in an atmosphere suspended between tradition and legend, stands one of the most famous and fascinating restaurants in Campania: O’ Parrucchiano La Favorita, a Historic Venue of Italy. Founded in 1868, this restaurant is not merely a place to enjoy Sorrentine cuisine, but a true identity symbol of the city, an institution that tells the story of more than a century and a half of gastronomic and cultural history, not only for its food but also for the symbolic value it holds in the collective memory of the city.

The former seminarian who changed his life

The very name, curious and unmistakable, contains an anecdote that makes the experience even more memorable. “O’ Parrucchiano” in fact means “the parish priest”: the founder, Antonino Ercolano, was a young seminarian who, having left the cassock, decided to dedicate himself to catering, transforming a modest trattoria into a landmark for travellers and locals as early as the second half of the 19th century. The choice to add “La Favorita” is linked to the era of romantic tourism and the desire to evoke a favoured, elegant and welcoming place.

Today, stepping through the doors of the restaurant means entering a world that combines the memory of the past with the pleasure of the table. The view is extraordinary: not a simple dining room, but a true citrus garden filled with flowers. Tables are set among rows of lemon and orange trees, beneath lush pergolas that provide shade and Mediterranean scents. A green oasis in the heart of Sorrento, where every meal becomes a multi-sensory experience, made up of colours, aromas and sounds that intertwine with the taste of the dishes.

The ritual of the cannelloni

From a gastronomic perspective, O’ Parrucchiano La Favorita has a special merit: being the place where the famous Cannelloni alla Sorrentina were born. It is no exaggeration to say that O’ Parrucchiano was a sort of ante litteram gastronomic laboratory: it was here, at the end of the 19th century, that this recipe was codified, a symbol of Mediterranean cuisine that combines fresh stuffed pasta with the richness of tomato sauce, the softness of ricotta and the fragrance of basil. Initially called Strascinati, they remain to this day a ritual for customers, a way of tasting a piece of history.

The menu, however, does not stop at this iconic dish. The offering embraces the very best of Campanian tradition: the house antipasto, then linguine ai due nemici (octopus and sea urchin), fresh grilled fish, plaits of fior di latte mozzarella served with local tomatoes, the classic Sorrento limoncello alongside delizia al limone, not forgetting gnocchi alla sorrentina. Every recipe is crafted with care, respecting the territory’s ingredients and seasonality, in a balance that keeps alive the bond with the local gastronomic culture.

O’ Parrucchiano is also a meeting place. Throughout its long history it has welcomed illustrious travellers, artists, writers and political figures, becoming a silent witness to conversations and stories that have intertwined at the tables of its garden. Its vocation as a gathering place explains why it continues to be chosen for receptions and special events: the scenographic setting of the pergolas and the timeless atmosphere make every occasion unforgettable.

In an age in which catering is subject to fleeting fashions and rapid transformations, often tending towards uniformity, O’ Parrucchiano La Favorita remains faithful to its essence: a cornerstone of urban history, a restaurant that has been able to innovate without betraying tradition, preserving the magic of a unique place while welcoming tourists from all over the world. Anyone passing through Sorrento cannot fail to stop at least once, to cross that pergola and be enchanted by the refined simplicity of its dishes. And, if you are lucky, a chat with the octogenarian owner Vincenzo Manniello will make the whole experience etched in your heart even before in the memory of fond recollections – just like the scent of lemons that envelops summer evenings among the tables of its garden.