The hidden bakery at the foot of Vesuvius famous for its pizze nel ruoto and unforgettable parigine

by Valentina Curcio

We are in Cercola, on the edge of the Vesuvius National Park, down a side street surrounded by cultivated fields and farmland. Here lies a small workshop, still unknown to most, which has been baking top-quality products for many years. We are talking about Panificio Michelangelo Bobb, a bakery founded in 1954, which over the years has evolved and reinvented itself several times, thanks also to the new generations who have managed to give the place a fresh identity.

Four generations of bakers

Initially, in its first location in San Sebastiano al Vesuvio, the focus was on the traditional pane cafone di San Sebastiano, with production mainly based on that bread and the wholesale distribution of loaves to shops and supermarkets throughout Campania. Later, in the 1990s, when the bakery moved to Cercola, where it is still located today, they began experimenting with pizze a rutiello (deep-pan pizzas).

Today, the bakery is run by Michele, Pietro and Ida Ottaiano — the fourth generation of the family — who, since taking over in 2006, have introduced new technologies, improved communication through social media, and, above all, focused on what they wanted to become the bakery’s real strong point: pizza.

Cooking on pizza

Whether baked in a rectangular tray or in a ruoto (round tin), stuffed, classic or elaborate, every pizza here becomes an experience you should try at least once in your life. The secret, as Michele tells us, “is all in the ingredients we use — fresh, never tinned.”

Their hallmark is “cooking on pizza”: lasagna, boscaiola, nerano or gateau are just some of their specialities that combine pizza with classic cooked dishes from Neapolitan tradition. The dough must have three non-negotiable features: baking in a wood-fired oven, long fermentation (at least 24/28 hours), and preparation with sourdough starter. Theirs is a centuries-old strain which needs great care and attention to preserve. Family holidays all together are out of the question for the Ottaiano family, because there always has to be someone in town to “look after” the starter, which must be tended to daily.

The must-try: the parigina

Special mention must go to the parigina, without a doubt one of the best (perhaps the best?) in all of Campania. The secret lies in its soft, buttery dough with edges that are perfectly crisp. The filling melts in your mouth, blending seamlessly with the dough while still allowing each ingredient to be distinctly tasted. A word of warning: eat it fresh from the oven. Waiting to bite into it is pure agony, but beware — a burn hazard is lurking.

In addition to pizzas, which are baked daily and also available to order, there is a wide selection of savoury pies, rustic pizzas, traditional Neapolitan sweets, taralli, biscuits and homemade bread.

A large outdoor area with parking and picnic-style tables allows customers to enjoy their freshly baked goods right on site. Patience is key: especially at weekends, you might have to wait in line for a while.