Sicily has been showing extraordinary dynamism for quite some time, leading it to occupy prominent positions in both the Italian and international markets. While the previous "Sicilian renaissance" success of Sicilian wines a few years ago was driven by reds, particularly Nero d'Avola, in recent years we have witnessed a strong comeback of whites. More than half of the awards this year go to high-class whites made from indigenous grapes—complex, profound, capable of evolving over time, yet irresistibly drinkable.
Among these, Grillo is one of the most interesting. Born in the second half of the 19th century as a cross between the two native grape varieties, Catarratto and Zibibbo (or Moscato d'Alessandria), initiated by Baron Antonio Mendola, an agronomist and ampelographer, it was long the protagonist of fortified wines (and today still plays a prominent role in the DOC Marsala). Later, it was discovered that excellent dry versions could also be produced, highlighting both acidity and rich fruit sweetness simultaneously. Grillo is a versatile grape that lends itself to being shaped by climate, soils, vineyard management, and winemaking practices. Perhaps it is these complex and somewhat elusive characteristics that form the basis of its growing success, making it the most interesting white in the current Sicilian wine landscape.
Tre Bicchieri 2024: The best Grillo wines from Sicily
In the Gambero Rosso Vini d'Italia 2024 guide, two Grillo wines received the Tre Bicchieri. The Family and Friends Firraru 2021 from Feudo Maccari offers a broad and pleasant bouquet that evokes lemon blossom, lavender, yellow fruit, and almond; driven by acidity, the palate is fresh and sapid, with a satisfying finish. The arrival of Alberto and Amedeo Moretti Cuseri has given new impetus to this renowned Sicilian winery in the Val di Noto, not so much in terms of quality, which has always remained exceptionally high but in terms of new projects and their communication. The estate, already certified organic, has further invested in sustainability and, of course, continues to focus on indigenous grape varieties from the area, cultivated as bush vines, such as Nero d'Avola and Grillo.
The Kheirè 2022 from Tenuta Gorghi Tondi is a pure Grillo with pronounced freshness, rich, elegant, and well-defined, deserving of the Tre Bicchieri. The extensive estate is nestled in a beautiful environmental and landscape context, just steps from the sea, with two charming lakes, also a WWF Nature Reserve, acquired by the Sala family at the end of the 19th century. Father Michele developed its characters of sun, nature, and beauty, leaving the task to the industrious daughters Annamaria and Clara, assisted by mother Doretta, to continue the work in the sign of the goodness of the wines, their drinkability, and their clear elegant character.
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