The gastronomy of the past – where to eat on the Amalfi Coast at fair prices

In Piazza Roma, in the Amalfi Coast village and stronghold of anchovy colatura, there’s a buzz. This square in Cetara, where buses stop on their way elsewhere, may soon no longer be the same – losing its role as a simple transit stop and becoming a reference point for those who want to eat something good rather than just depart. Yes, because a breath of fresh air is coming. At number 17, the family who made history with the famous restaurant Al Convento is ready to open its doors. As you’ve already guessed, the chefs Pasquale and Gaetano are behind it all: on Monday 1st September they will inaugurate their new food shop, La Fermata di Casa Torrente. A brand-new address for the area, but for some of its creators it may also represent a step back into the past.

@al.conventocetara

La Fermata di Casa Torrente

In front of the new eatery – a former delicatessen renovated over the winter – there is a constant flow of coaches stopping and leaving for Amalfi, Naples or Salerno. This setting inspired the name of the venue, just a few metres from the restaurant. The proximity to Casa Torrente will allow the owners and staff to alternate easily between the two locations. In fact, it is not unlikely that visitors might bump into Gaetano and Pasquale themselves, or their daughter-in-law Rosanna.

A venue on the main road that immediately captivated the elder brother, drawn by the idea of creating something different, unusual compared to the usual local offering: “The space inspired me. It was an opportunity to give the village and passers-by what it was missing. Throughout the coast there are no service stations, nor places where you can stop and grab something. Instead, this will be just such a format; something easy for those waiting for the bus, or for those who, not wanting to go to a restaurant every evening, come by to take food away. Whether they are at home or staying in a B&B.”

La Fermata will be a multifunctional establishment: it will operate as a food shop, wine bar, and takeaway. With four wooden barrels to lean on outside and a counter with at most three stools inside, the Torrente family’s food-and-wine pit stop is set to become the first takeaway in Cetara.

Gaetano e Pasquale Torrente @al.conventocetara

The offer at Piazza Roma 17

According to patron Pasquale, the range of choice seems endless. From aged cheeses, selected cured meats, and fish preserves such as anchovies, colatura and bluefin tuna, customers will be able to buy almost everything, from large to small local producers. Guiding the selection is always the same mantra: not so-called zero kilometre, but what they call “good kilometre”.

There will also be no shortage of fried fish, the house’s trademark, with Gaetano who for years travelled with Eataly frying far and wide using the high-oleic oil devised by his father. Tradition will undoubtedly reign supreme: not only aubergine parmigiana and ready-made pasta, but also meatballs, spit-roasted chicken, and tempting sandwiches with sausage and peppers or filled with spleen, prepared as it used to be in the Salerno area with vinegar, white wine, mint, and chilli.

In its own way, this repertoire “of substance” awakens family memories, when in the Seventies Al Convento was at once a sports club, a delicatessen, a pizzeria, and a takeaway rotisserie run by mamma Gilda and papà Gaetano. Indeed, some friends have already asked whether the legendary lasagne, the famous fried chichilotti, and the other historic dishes of their mother will also be available. Be that as it may, as told here, La Fermata seems like an almost undisguised homage to their parents and to that old venture, dusted off with a pinch of modernity thanks to Gaetano’s hand. As Pasquale himself confirms: “It’s only natural. One always starts from one’s roots.”

Bread, butter and anchovies that will be found at La Fermata di Casa Torrente
@al.conventocetara

A democratic formula

As for wine, the range extends from natural Campanian productions to French champagne houses, with some labels also shared with their Casa Torrente Ristorante Al Convento. Of particular note is the option to enjoy a glass for only €5. This is why they prefer to speak of a democratic formula whenever pressed on the eclectic nature of the offering. A concept dear to them, reaffirmed across the board: “It must support both the people and the business, but food belongs to everyone. Just as it always has at Al Convento. With us you can now eat a first course for €15 or for €30, fried fish for €18 or a lobster. And no one should have to break the bank to drink something by the glass. In Piazza Roma we’ll have good things at fair prices, like a wine bar – which doesn’t exist in the village – and not like a restaurant.”

Opening with sobriety

On the 1st of September, the new venue will be inaugurated at 7pm with some caciocavallo cheese, a glass of wine and perhaps a few pastries. Nothing more. Certainly, there will be no brass band playing, nor the classic red ribbon to cut. From Pasquale Torrente’s words, it promises to be a low-profile inauguration, respectful of those who are suffering: “At such a critical moment worldwide, with wars and conflicts, we believe it would be wrong to make merry, or to call someone in to play music. We will certainly showcase the new place, but it won’t be a traditional inauguration.”