The Conclave begins on 7 May. Here’s where the cardinals eat before choosing the new Pope

Rome prepares for the Conclave, amidst solemn rites and small episodes of daily life. As reported today by the Corriere della Sera, retired Archbishop Anselmo Guido Pecorari, 79, from Mantua, stopped by the Caffè dei Papi on Via Vespasiano, between the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Square, "for a sandwich and a small beer" after the Mass of the second day of the novemdiales. "Today I’m keeping it light," he says modestly, but recalls that "last night, with my friend Cardinal Mario Zenari, from Verona, Apostolic Nuncio to Syria, we went to the restaurant La Taverna, at the corner of Via Candia and Via Tunisi, and we devoured some excellent Roman-style artichokes."

Discreet dinners, carbonara and ice cream at Borgo Pio

Pre-Conclave Rome also moves between laid tables and crowded ice cream parlours. The cardinals gather at La Rustichella, at the corner of Via Emo, or at Marcantonio in Borgo Pio, famous for its "mythical carbonara", much loved by the Italian birettas. "However, I recommended, especially to my English and American friends, to leave their red robes back at the college and just slip the cardinal's ring into their pocket, because otherwise the hosts take advantage and really sting them, especially on the wine," says Pecorari. And sometimes the scene turns almost surreal, like the other day at the historic Latteria Giuliani in Borgo Pio, when two cardinals, having entered for an ice cream, found themselves surrounded by kneeling customers seeking a blessing. Amidst embarrassment and smiles, the custard cream and pistachio flavours risked melting before they could be enjoyed.

Little liqueurs and bitter bills at Santa Marta

Even at Santa Marta, the residence where the cardinal electors will stay, curious incidents are not lacking. "It’s like a hotel, and for that reason you have to be careful," warns Pecorari. "I can't tell you his name because he’s a dear friend, but a foreign cardinal, thinking everything was free, invited some colleagues to his room for a chat after dinner, and soon they had finished all the miniatures from the minibar. Only later did he realise they had been charged to his bill, and he wasn’t very pleased." This too, after all, is part of the eve of the Conclave: between artichokes, carbonara, and small gastronomic mishaps, the path towards the Sistine Chapel also passes through the tables of Rome.