Abruzzo is a region deeply connected to viticulture, and wine production is an integral part of the regional economy. Eric Asimov, the wine and food critic for The New York Times, wrote that to find wines of great value, one must look to Abruzzo. This is thanks to winemakers who have skillfully brought out the best in their land and native grape varieties. While Montepulciano d'Abruzzo undoubtedly takes the spotlight among red wines, when it comes to white wines, the dominance of Pecorino over Trebbiano is well-established in Abruzzo. During tastings for the Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia 2024 guide, we sampled over 100 samples of the former and just over 60 of the latter. However, Trebbiano is not ready to abdicate. It seems that producers are trying to restore the quintessential Abruzzo white with versions that are released at least after a year or even more: we found complex, nuanced, and very interesting wines as we went back in time.
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo with the best value for money
Here is a selection of five Trebbiano wines (four belonging to the DOC Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, and one an IGT) that, in our 2024 wine guides, Vini d'Italia and Berebene by Gambero Rosso, have achieved the Tre Bicchieri milestone or have reached the finals with Due Bicchieri Rossi. These are available in wine shops or online stores for less than 20 euros.
Trebbiano Lupaia 2022 by Castorani. Resulting from spontaneous fermentation, it features fresh wheat, straw, lemon, and yellow flowers leading to a very pleasant sip. Nestled in the Pescaresi Hills, between Majella and the Adriatic Coast, the winery was built in 1793 by the renowned surgeon Raffaele Castorani. The base of the company, owned by a group of partners, including the famous Formula 1 champion Jarno Trulli, is now located here. The philosophy is guided by a judiciously modern vision, where indigenous grape varieties, grown organically, shape an excellent range of wines.
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo La Collina Biologica 2022 by Cirelli. Straw and cereals, iodine nuances, medicinal herbs, a lively and tense palate with beautiful underlying energy. Francesco Cirelli is an agricultural entrepreneur capable of developing many clear and precise ideas. The latest, from last year, is "glamping," a kind of luxury camping among the vineyards. However, this is just another aspect of a 360-degree agricultural company that includes vineyards, horticulture, livestock, and olive groves. In the cellar, artisanal wines are born with spontaneous fermentations, amphorae, sensitivity, and a touch of personality.
Trebbiano Notàri 2021 by Fattoria Nicodemi. Lemon, citron, and lime make up the citrusy component of a nose that also tells its story through aromatic herbs, especially basil. The great olfactory cleanliness anticipates an equally clear gustatory sharpness, an elegant sip that revisits herbaceous sensations and citrus peel. Elena and Alessandro have followed in the footsteps of their father Bruno, continuing wine production started in the late '90s. The company's vineyard is located on the hills of Contrada Veniglio, in Notaresco, enjoying the best the Teramo territory has to offer: clay-limestone soil and evening breezes from the Adriatic. In the cellar, there is a desire to experiment without forgetting the roots of tradition, characteristics found in a range of wines dedicated to the region's indigenous varieties.
Trebbiano Spelt 2020 by La Valentina. It smells of chamomile and cedar, merging with a beautiful sensation of sweet white fruit; then aromatic herbs come in, paving the way for a relaxed, laid-back, and very flavorful sip. Respect for the territory and sustainability: on these two principles, the Di Properzio brothers advance their winemaking project founded in the '90s. The vineyards span different territories, benefiting from the sun and sea and mountain breezes. The production of Sabatino, Andrea, and Roberto's company benefits from the precious help of Luca D'Attoma, who transforms grapes into a range of expressive and territorially distinctive labels.
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Zione 2021 by Spinelli.Very good, with a broad aromatic palette featuring mature peach, pine needles, cedar, and yellow flowers. Complex on the palate, sunny and rich, yet endowed with great drinkability. Founded in 1973 by Vincenzo Spinelli, the company can be counted among those that have made Abruzzo wines known worldwide. Today, it is led by his sons, Carlo and Adriano, who, in the '90s, gave a strong boost to the family business, especially in exports, which now account for about 60% of total production. It had been a while since the company found space in our guide's pages, but the wines from the Zione line, which we had never tasted before, convinced us fully this year.
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