We are in the homeland of the most famous Italian prosciutto in the world, from this city comes the name of Parmigiano Reggiano, at a stone’s throw are the lands if Verdi which is the kingdom of exceptional salami. Here the local cuisine has a long and delicious tradition. But there is not only the past, that is however glorious. Now even younger formats, creative kitchens and the desire to explore modernity are being affirmed.
Ceci of Starhotels Du Parc
v.le Piacenza, 12
Elegant, but not pedantic, classicism
The Ceci family (which managed Villa Maria Luigia in Collecchio) manages an elegant and well-kept place whose offer is a mix between the territory and international that does not disappoint..
v.le A. Gramsci, 16a
A solid family affair
This is one of the most popular tables in the city, a true classic. Thanks to a welcoming environment and a solid and caring family management. But above all a typical cuisine made according to the rules, with hand-rolled pastas and space for seasonal products.
s.da Conservatorio, 1
Strictly Parma cuisine with all its peculiarities and its true and pure flavors: from ciccioli to fried polenta taragna, from ragout of strolghino to horse-ground pesto…
Ai Due Platani
The Parma countryside in a nutshell
A solid landing in the countryside around Parma. Here one sits at a “real” Parmigiana table, where the cuisine is typical even with some good reinterpretation, simple and told with passion by the owners, who minutely describe the ingredients.
via San Leonardo, 124
The local Poli family (Francesca at the helm of the dining room) shakes the traditionalism of one of the most emblematic capitals of fine Italian dining. And relies on the cuisine of Terry Giacomello, a talented chef who has worked extensively with Ferran Adrià and at Mugaritz, the top of the Iberian avant-garde. The decor is equally futuristic. But in the kitchen there are the pillars of the territory: Parmesan and salami in primis (even if in original interpretations).
Officina Alimentare Dedicata
via F. Maestri, 11°
At heart of the nightlife
In the heart of the city nightlife, here is a restaurant set up by three girls with a passion for the ancient flavors of Emilia. The young, versatile and variable menu is inspired by the traditions of regional cuisine and selected ingredients.
b.go P. Cocconi, 3e
In the popular university center of Parma, this is the prototype of the new generation osterias, informal and convivial taverns where patrons can drink a glass of wine on worn wooden tables, pushed up against one another. Michel Torrisi, the host, recites the offer, or one can choose from the chalkboard menu. Natural wines and craft beers, charcuterie platters, toasts and salami of pork and/or fish.
s.da G. Inzani, 15
A modern restaurant in which the hosts (Elena and Emilio Restori and chef Lazzaro Fattoruso) focus on contemporary preparations, seafood dishes, international inspirations, with high quality, seasonal and local ingredients, paying great attention to the ethics of producers, all aesthetics and nutritional components.
s.da Repubblica, 71
fun and top-notch cuisine
Here Marco Parizzi has caught the wind of change into a local landmark in the city: he interprets and lightens dishes of territorial inspiration, but also often plays on raw fish and vegetables, with creative instinct and classical technique. A thousand labels on the wine list.
Tra l’uss e l’asa
b.go san Biagio 6/c
Quality fast food
The food is traditional, the place is instead new generation. The heart of the offer, here, are sandwiches and the formula is quick: numbered queue to eat standing up, but the flavors are more than deserving (excellent meatballs and the inevitable cotechino). Possibility of take-out.
I Tri Siochett
s.da Farnese, 74
From tobacconist to trattoria
It was a bar-tabacchi-deli, today a restaurant seating hundreds that manages to keep the quality and tradition intact despite size. Excellent cold cuts with the inevitable fried gnocco fritto and then fresh pastas, stew of donkey or cooked shoulder of San Secondo; desserts include Italian style trifle and zabaione.
di Castelnovo, 60a
Short supply chain and imagination
Seasonal market menu in a restaurant where short supply chain rules, between tradition and fantasy. Comfortable environment and service with a smile of the two Friulian sisters.
Alfione & Bruno
v.le Piacenza, 7
Bottega 3.0 well defines the soul of this ancient deli founded in 1941 and also transformed into a dining room (Alfione, complete with silver cutlery) with a menu that draws its strength from the deli counter selection.
b.go Sant’Ambrogio, 2c
Vintage vibes in this historic (and precursory) sandwich shop. Among the unmissable tastings there are above all the menu’s great classics: from Carciofa to a timeless toast with cooked ham, Fontina and pickles.
Humus Bio Bistrot
De’ Capelluti, 6a
A new concept place that follows the natural, organic and local trend in its products and dishes, including vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, lactose-free and least number of allergens.
p.le Cervi, 5
0521286098 – ohibo.it
Elastic cuisine and wines of artisans, recites the claim of this new generation eatery: very selected and seasonal products in a new offering: from shabu shabu of Prussian beef to variations of the tongue, from ravioli filled with stracotto beef stew, to the many shades of cuttlefish…
PianoA Drink & Kitchen
b.go S. Lorenzo, 1
This is the kingdom of Mimmo Albano, ideal place for aperitivo, this is a favourite of chef Marco Parizzi. But it lends itself well for an informal dinner (even with mini-portions).
J. Roger Speakeasy
s.da agli Ospizi
After dinner lounge with a quiet and elegant atmosphere, well made cocktails signed by Luca Tesser, forerunner of the city’s speakeasy scene.
della Duchessa Prati
s.da Duomo, 7
0521386429 – palazzodallarosaprati.it
Lounge bar and literary café for aperitivo in a historic building transformed into luxury residences on the medieval square and with a strong modern design imprint.
s.da L. C. Farini, 5b
0521200223 – tabarro.net
In the heart of the city, an elegant place with a nice selection of labels and craft beers; as well as local products. Away from the tourist formulas in the area.
b.go Del Carbone, 3
Non è proprio di terroir, ma è un locale moderno in cui pesce fa rima con bollicine, ottimo dopo aver fatto il pieno di culatello e crudo e cotechino! Ottima la lista dei vini, spumanti e Champagne in primis.
s.da G. Garibaldi, 11
Place for a sweet break in what is considered one of the best gelaterie in Italy with branches in other cities (and with another opening in Via Mentana 91a). Stefano Guzzetti’s goal is to make the purest gelato around. And by subtraction it reaches the top of quality, both in the classic flavours and in the newer ones.ù
Antica Corte Pallavicina
Polesine Zibello (PR)
s.da del Palazzo
delle Due Torri, 3
A dream and then some. A memory (of the famed Cantarelli). A great story (from Giuseppe Verdi to Giovannini Guareschi). The splendid relais of the Spigaroli brothers is a unique place where it’s difficult to resist the triumph of the different home-made culatello (aged 18 to 36 months). The kitchen is a triumph of what is produced locally, proposed with refinement and balance. Impressive wine cellar.
Hosteria del Maiale
Polesine Zibello (PR)
fraz. Polesine Parmense
s.da del Palazzo delle Due Torri, 3
To rediscover the flavors and culture of the dinner table characteristic of the Bassa Parmense, this is definitely the place that – within the Spigaroli relais – offers the most authentic experience (otherwise, in the name of elegance and refinement, there’s Antica Corte Pallavicina, see above).
Polesine Zibello (PR)
via Sbrisi, 3
Part of the Spigaroli galaxy, this warm place where meals are served near the warmth of the fireplace. Also the Pallavicina cookers (see above), starting with exceptional charcuterie and their own wines.
Bistrot del Labirinto
s.da Masone, 121
05211855372 – ristorazione
In the suggestive Labirinto della Masone (with different works of art and bamboo plants characterizing it) here is another very territorial version of the two Spigaroli brothers who propose the creations of their Antica Corte
via Roncole Verdi, 136
A five minute drive from the birthplace of the “swan” Giuseppe Verdi, here is the local owned by the Campanini family, stronghold of the area’s best flavours: here they produce, select and season their own culatello, cooked shoulder and hams.
G. Mazzini, 8
Historic restaurant of rare elegance in a village famous for its culatello. Marco Dallabona is a chef with extensive experience, with great precedents also in Parma. Try the homage menu to Peppino and Mirella Cantarelli, but there are incursions from the classic to modernity. Very nice wine cellar with 2,000 labels.
loc. Vedole, 68
The Bergonzi family manages this pleasant local restaurant and the adjoining Podere Cadassa, a historic quality artisan salami factory. From the kitchen come the flavours of the territory, but not only, in a menu that juggles with agility both land and sea, classicism and creativity. Interesting tasting menus that speak of the past, but relying on the best homegrown ingredients. Salami in primis, then meat (rabbit) and freshwater fish. Cellar in tune with the offer.
Hostaria da Ivan
In atmospheres that recall the levity of Guareschi’s characters (to whom a menu is also dedicated), Ivan proposes strictly local cuisine. Ingredients are truly km0 and super selected, starting from wild greens (as stuffing for tortelli) and eggs for the zabaione (“old school”: with artisan biscuits).
Osteria di Fornio
Local dating back to the ’20s (and the atmosphere proves it) offering a cuisine that’s firmly anchored to the territory, starting from the fresh pasta. Good wine list.
Antica Trattoria al Duomo
Antini, 26 – 052485130
Here the spirit is really of old scholl trattoria, starting from the kitchen: from fried cake (and cold cuts) to anolini in broth, from Duchesse di Parma (rolls and fried meatballs) to desserts, first of all the Italian style trifle.
via Emilia, 129
This is the first Italian culatelleria: a format dedicated to culaccia, culatello & co., The typical Parma pork cuts. Here you can eat, taste and buy. Obviously, a valid place for a territorial aperitif.
s.da Sabbiata, 20
A small self-sufficient cheese producer that on average makes 9 wheels of Parmigiano a day and agest them 12 months to 5 years.
Fragnolo, 29 – 052552102
This is one of the best trattorias in Italy: the cuisine is exceptionally solid and elaborated with ingredients selected with rare rigor by Mariella and Guido. But it’s the winery that takes full command: chock with Italian and foreign labels, especially French, with many natural wines elsewhere unavailable and often little known.
via O. Grassi, 21
This is the new restaurant of Roberto Pongolini, former owner of Cantinetta di Felino, former owner of Borgo 20 in Parma (see listing) and “inventor” of a particular focaccia called Pandirò. The cuisine is modern, market-forward and offers both meat and fish.
Nuova Pasticceria Lady
via G. Garibaldi, 37
Experimentation is the word of this bakery ranked at the top of Italian confectionery, owing success to the vision of Paola Ziliani and the passion of Angelo Pezzarossa. Wide selection of brioche and leavened products, homemade jams and special, intriguing reinterpretation of the classics.
Al Battistero d’Oro
s.da Sant’Anna, 22
doppia 80-120 euro
Charming B&B in the heart of the historic centre. Patrizia Valenti, the friendly and talkative owner, serves a perfect breakfast every morning.
Park Hotel Pacchiosi
s.da del Quartiere, 4
doppia 200-280 euro
Nestled in a beautiful park of 10,000 square meters in the oldest district of Parma, the place is housed in the nineteenth century “Royal Surgical Clinic”.
Les Suites di Parma
s.da G. Garibaldi, 6
Saliceto Azienda Agricola
Lesignano de’ Bagni (PR)
via A. Toscanini, 3
Farm with over half a century of experience, with its own supply chain and with free-range pasture-raised cows. The wheels range from 13 to 36 months. Also interesting is the breeding of pigs for beautiful Felino salami and culatte meats.
Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati
s.da al Duomo, 7
0521386429 – palazzo
doppia 240-280 euro
Historic dwelling with designer furnishings, and elegant luxury resort-like surroundings.
Grand Hotel de La Ville
l.go P. Calamandrei, 11
doppia 155-350 euro
Elegant and modern hotel near the Duomo, inside the Barilla shopping center.
Villino di Porporano
s.da Bodrio, 26
doppia 130-190 euro
B&B with five rooms in country style, with antique furniture, in an old rural building next to the manor house. Protected winter portico and possibility of joining cooking classes.
written by Maurizio Bertera, Mara Nocilla, Michele Turelli