'Old vines are a fundamental part of the identity of this wine'

The Podere Castorani Casauria Riserva Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC 2021 was one of an elite group of wines to win the top rating of Tre Bicchieri in our Vini d'Italia 2026 guide.

Located in the province of Pescara, Castorani was co-founded by ex-F1 driver Jarno Trulli, though, ironically, one of the key qualities behind this wine is just how long it has taken, being made from a single cru of vineyards which are more than 50 years old.

"Old vines are a fundamental part of the identity of this wine," says commercial coordinator Mattia Lauterio. "Vines that are over 50 years old naturally produce lower yields, but the fruit is much more concentrated and expressive. Their deep root systems allow them to explore different layers of the soil, bringing greater complexity and a stronger sense of place. In our wines, these old vines contribute intensity, structure and depth, but also a particular energy and character that younger vineyards simply cannot replicate."

An ideal season

Another asset that has contributed to this wine's critical success was a favourable vintage in Abruzzo.

"The 2021 growing season was very balanced," says Lauterio. "Spring was relatively cool, which helped preserve natural acidity and slowed the early vegetative cycle. Summer was warm but without extreme heat, and the day–night temperature differences during the ripening period allowed the grapes to develop slowly and evenly."

"These conditions helped us achieve full phenolic ripeness while maintaining freshness and precision. For us, 2021 expresses great balance and clarity, allowing the character of our vineyards and old vines to come through very clearly," he adds.

Fermentation and maturation

Great fruit is certainly a requirement for great wines, but careful handling in the cellar is also vital.

In the case of the Casauria Riserva Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, a long fermentation in concrete enables micro-oxygenation without losing the characteristic primary profile of the variety.

"Concrete offers great thermal stability during fermentation and allows a gentle and natural evolution of the wine without adding any external flavour. This approach helps us preserve the purity of the fruit and the authenticity of our Montepulciano, which is something that is central to the identity of our wines," says Lauterio. "For us, fermentation in concrete is not about following a trend. It is simply the method that we believe best expresses our grapes and our vineyards. In fact, very few producers in our area work in this way today."

After the fermentation in concrete, the liquid then spends a year in oak.

"Fermentation in concrete allows us to keep the fruit very pure and precise," Lauterio notes. "The following ageing in 500-litre oak barrels helps the wine gain structure, depth and complexity over time."

Although some secondary character is desirable, the purpose of the oak is not to obscure the primary profile, but rather to aid in the development of its signature structure, rounding out tannins.

"We prefer larger barrels because they have a much more subtle impact than small barriques. The goal is not to mark the wine with oak, but to allow it to evolve slowly and harmoniously, maintaining the balance between fruit, texture and tertiary complexity."

The work is still not done though, as the wine must then be bottled and allowed to further develop within its glass confines. This is why the 2021 vintage is only just arriving on the market. If any wine proves the old adage that "good things come to those who wait", it is this.