In Treviso, there’s one of Italy’s longest-standing restaurants serving the best bigoli in Veneto

by Paolo Manfredi

Known to every Treviso local, just behind the famous Piazza dei Signori – where a film that remains a monument to provincial Italian life (Pietro Germi’s Signore & Signori, 1965) was set – Toni del Spin is a trattoria that opened in 1880 and has managed to extend its lifespan without betraying its spirit. The name has deep roots: in 1932, a certain Toni left his old tavern just outside the city, called “Al Spin” due to the large thorny acacia tree out front, and took over a place in the centre. His nickname followed him – “quelo del spin,” the customers said. And so it became, “let’s go to Toni del Spin.”

The battle against overtourism in Treviso is being fought by the locals

But let’s take a step back – or rather forward – to better understand the context. Treviso is a beautiful city: part mainland Venice, part countryside, wealthy and well cared for, dotted with industrial sheds and artisan workshops, where people work hard and enjoy the rewards of their efforts. This corner of Veneto is proverbially pleasure-loving: there’s a strong sense of community – contrary to the stereotype of the reserved northerner – and above all, a healthy passion for food and drink that seems to have vanished elsewhere.

Treviso was never a tourist city – at least not until recently. But now, thanks to the airport, the Prosecco boom, and newly opened cycle routes, it’s become a destination to explore. Yet the tourists who do visit must share it with the locals, who live the city fully and crowd into its bars and restaurants. The only real antidote to overtourism is local life.

When I go to Treviso, I’m happy – because I know I’ll enter a happy provincial world of architecture and gastronomy. And that’s exactly what, as a middle-aged man who’s travelled a bit, I’m mainly looking for these days. I now have my favourite spots – and the list keeps growing thanks to tips from my local friends. I love having lunch at Canova with tramezzini, meatballs, and a glass of Prosecco; grabbing a coffee at Taste, on a little bridge that instantly recalls Venice; or stopping to work at Bloom. But top of my list is, naturally, that concentrated essence of Treviso-ness we mentioned above: Toni del Spin.

The phenomenal wine cellar of one of Italy’s most historic restaurants

Back to its more recent history: in the 1980s the restaurant was run by Dorino Sartor, who passed the baton in 1992 to his nephew Alfredo Sturlese. Today, Alfredo is joined front of house by his daughter Emily, while his son Nicholas continues to manage the wine orders and selection – even though he’s now pursuing new professional ventures. And it’s no small task: the wine cellar built in 2019 houses 15,000 bottles.

At the stove for the past twenty-seven years (because flags – whether in football or in kitchens – are best left in place) is Guido Severin.

The venue itself is large, with a double soul: on one side, the historic space – one of the oldest restaurants in Italy to have been in continuous operation – with yellow walls and a floor of the deepest wood, a patina that only tradition can offer; on the other side, the modern wing, also opened in 2019, where the cellar and more tables are located – all glass, design pieces and soft lighting. A perfectly executed mix of old and new.

What to eat at Toni del Spin

The menu is a hymn to local gastronomic culture, with frequent and delightful digressions. I stuck to the classics: soppressa from Treviso with polenta; hands down the best bigoli with anchovy and onion sauce I’ve ever tasted; and baccalà alla vicentina with polenta – ending with tiramisù, which was invented in this area (not here, but very nearby).

Since we eat with our eyes too – always hungrier than our stomachs – I eyed with great interest dishes on neighbouring tables: sopa coada with pigeon, and all the asparagus dishes, which are unmissable in season.

We’ve already mentioned the encyclopaedic wine list. The service, for such a large and always busy place, is prompt and friendly, and the prices are absolutely fair.

And so I stepped out into the warm Treviso summer evening deeply satisfied, happy, and just a little envious of this simple but top-quality way of “being well” – something that’s been somewhat lost in the big cities, where traditions have faded, prices have gone mad, and baristas have turned into artists who think they need to teach you how to drink coffee. No thanks – I’ll take Toni any day.

Toni del Spin – Treviso – via Inferiore, 7 – 0422 543829 – ristorantetonidelspin.com