In the province of Trapani there is a restaurant where you eat (almost) with your feet in the water

It was the summer of 2016 when Gaspare Randazzo, an experienced fish merchant just like his father, decided to put to good use his deep knowledge of fishing and fish and to open a restaurant of his own, La Tonnara. The chosen location was the tourist marina of Castellammare del Golfo – a fishing town with endless sandy beaches – a sort of elegant basin which, filled with yachts, sleek catamarans and leisure boats, seduces tourists and visitors in search of cool air, good food, beauty and relaxing atmospheres (more than a few consider it the Saint-Tropez of Sicily). Complementing the comfortable dining room is, right opposite, a delightful terrace nestled on the water, which in no time has become a must among the (few, in truth) places with “feet in the water”.

At exuberant Gaspare’s side, an empathetic and lively character, is his very young daughter Gloria, at first only involved in administration (having a classical high school diploma and a degree in business economics). Over time, however, Gloria realised that the particular response from customers (and from critics in the sector) – in some respects beyond expectations – required her father to be properly supported on the “front line” (management of the dining room, coordination of the different “stations” in the kitchen, wine service) and that this had to happen through dedicated training that would expand her skills and specific experience.

Busy years followed: the young woman completed the AIS (Italian Sommelier Association) courses on wine, improved her languages, and spent two whole seasons working and studying under Accursio Craparo, one of Sicily’s greatest chefs, in his two restaurants, Radici (the trattoria) and Accursio (then Michelin 1 star). Between kitchen, dining room and cellar, she explored in depth all the multiple organisational challenges.

Father and daughter at the helm of La Tonnara

Since 2021 Gloria has been back home, and this time not just to be “the bookkeeper”, as some mischievous friends had ironically dubbed her. On the “front line” it is now only her: Gaspare Randazzo still takes care, as always, of the crucial aspect of raw materials (but with two long-established family fishmongers in Alcamo and Castellammare del Golfo, he is on safe ground), while his daughter looks after everything else.

And “everything else” means a mighty cellar (1,200 high-level labels) with many wines also available by the glass (but almost everything can be poured, just ask), and many bottles even at €20, Champagne, Austria, Germany and all the most renowned wine regions of the world at “sweet”, inviting prices; and also an extraordinary kitchen organisation, which ensures a smooth connection with the dining room work, optimising times without blocking the flow. Above all, she tirelessly oversees everything, smiling, elegant in posture and charming in speech, impeccable, with her dedicated team, in managing hospitality.

What you eat at La Tonnara

One might ask, strictly in terms of food, what has changed in these almost 10 years, and the answer is “almost nothing”: the historic dishes remain, enriched with some novelties. As far as the catch is concerned, quality continues to be at the highest level, with a cooking style that has always been light and respectful, aiming to enhance it. You choose the fish from the rich counter and proceed swiftly (depending on the seasons and the market’s arrivals there is a whole world to discover: from oysters to crabs, from prawns to langoustines, from cuttlefish to sea bass, from lobsters to crayfish).

Gloria has wisely planned to be able to meet the thousand and one needs of the clientele: tuna tartare and raw fish, white fish (even authentic caviar – butter and caviar – for those who really want to go over the top), cooked starters, fried paranza fish, succulent pasta with swordfish, couscous, linguine with bottarga, with sea urchins… spaghetti with lobster and main courses depending on the day’s catch, all at fair prices.

And if you want to meet a happy man, take note (in the evening) of an extroverted “seasoned boy” doing public relations in front of La Tonnara, smiling as he welcomes his many friends-customers (with a big, calm dog that always stays strictly outside): it is Gaspare Randazzo, and that dog is Gloria’s faithful companion. Dad has worked hard between night and morning to procure the fish, and then relaxes, cheerful and playful, proudly doting on his daughter.