In the heart of the woods, a timeless osteria: the most authentic discovery between Umbria, Lazio and Tuscany

Jun 14 2025, 13:02
Nestled within the forests along the borders of Umbria, Lazio and Tuscany lies a historic osteria with accommodation, serving traditional dishes in an area untouched by mass tourism

by Anastasia Gobbi 

Hidden on the border between Umbria, Lazio and Tuscany, two rustic farmhouses perfectly integrated into the shady surrounding landscape – home to the Hosteria di Villalba – guard a strip of land stretching between the Val di Chiana and the Val di Paglia. They offer lodging and refreshment to visitors drawn to the magnificent hills and silent woodland walks.

400 years of the Hosteria

The current structure was developed as part of a restoration project of two buildings originally inhabited by sharecropping families, later abandoned following the agrarian reform of the 1950s. However, the history of the Hosteria di Villalba runs far deeper: in 1620, a territorial map of Orvieto already mentioned a locality with this name, located between today’s municipalities of Allerona (TR) and Trevinano (VT). Later, a historical text on banditry in the Viterbo area refers to it as the last customs post of the Papal States.
More recently, thanks to the cooperation of several local authorities, the buildings were acquired, renovated and made operational with the goal of transforming them into facilities that support sustainable development in the area. The initiative weaves together social and environmental purposes, aiming for the reintegration of disadvantaged individuals into the workforce, the regeneration of marginal areas, and the maximisation of collective wellbeing within the local community.

Villalba: lodging & cuisine

Acquaviva and Casanova – the names of the two farmhouses – host a total of eight apartments, accommodating up to 36 guests, and form the heart of this establishment: the osteria itself. The “official” menu is simple, offering a few local traditional dishes that are always available, often accompanied by off-menu options:
“Dishes inspired by the season, festivities, the availability of raw ingredients, and the flair and inspiration of our cooks and chefs,” which Adio – the innkeeper – communicates directly to the guests.
The philosophy is clear: “Drawing on the rich traditions of our region, we aim to revive the genuine simplicity of rural cuisine tied to the products of the land, the climate and the rhythm of the seasons. We do so by purchasing, wherever possible, ingredients directly from local producers who practise sustainable agriculture, respectful of both the environment and people.”

In the photo: Adio Provvedi.
The photos are provided via the social media accounts of @HosteriaVillalba.

From Monte Rufeno to Selva di Meana

Equally noteworthy are the countless activities the lush landscape and breathtaking scenery invite visitors to try: between the Monte Rufeno Nature Reserve and the protected area of the Selva di Meana, kilometres of trails stretch out, suitable for walking or cycling – as in the nearby Villalba Park, adjacent to the farmhouses.
Lake Trasimeno and Lake Bolsena, both just a short drive away, offer ideal opportunities for water sports enthusiasts and those who enjoy visiting historic towns and villages, some of which are among the most beautiful in Italy. A stop in the small town of San Casciano dei Bagni is also a must – a hidden gem for those who appreciate spa destinations, with free-access pools at various temperatures.

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