In the heart of Salento, Mediterranean cuisine is served in an olive mill dating back to 1350

by Serena Curto

They call it “Grecia Salentina”, the linguistic island in the province of Lecce that marks the boundaries of the nine villages where Griko – the neo-Greek dialect – is still spoken. One of these is Corigliano d’Otranto, and in its light-coloured stone lanes there is a former underground olive mill from 1350 where lively, fashionable dishes are served.

Mediterranean soul, clandestine dishes

“Summer. Friends, good wine and the magic of our little lane” – this is what Samuele Toma, young chef and owner of his Sinódia, loves to repeat. In the lanes of the ancient heart of Corigliano d’Otranto, beneath the vaulted ceilings of a 14th-century underground mill, his restaurant comes to life. From Salento it has inherited the typically warm and festive welcome, but it is above all the rest that sparks curiosity. Samuele, born in 1997, is Salentine by birth but a citizen of the world by vocation.

After experiences in Europe, between Amsterdam and London, he decided to return to his homeland to tell its story through his own eyes and taste. From the grandmothers’ ancient recipes to international incursions, here you find simple, indulgent dishes that truly make you want to linger at the table and enjoy yourself.

Each season, a menu-shaped theme

Perhaps it no longer makes headlines (though it is certainly always appreciated) when a chef is committed to using only zero-kilometre ingredients, carefully selected from the best local producers. And this is undoubtedly the case here. What does catch the eye, however, is when in a little town swept up in the vortex of the Basso Salento – where trends sometimes struggle to take root and tradition remains the most comforting norm – a restaurant appears where you can eat well and fashionably.

Samuele is indeed the proof that an idea is worth little without the charisma of the person who shapes it. And in this, he is truly skilled. He creates and recreates, changes, furnishes, plays and has fun with colourful tablecloths, menus with curious graphics, cover-worthy corners and beautiful handmade ceramic plates. There is the indoor dining room, with lamps hanging from the vaulted ceilings; the little terrace, delightful in summer, swaying between white curtains and candlelight. The tiny lane that radiates with scattered tables beneath a cascade of cloths and lace, all strung from side to side.

At Sinódia, enjoyment starts with the dishes on the menu and its signature plate: Spaghetto Benedetto. A true homage to Salentine wheat with anchovy colatura, clarified butter, chilli, fresh scampi tartare and pimentón. Everything is there: his travels, his love of aesthetics, his ability to treat raw materials with a gentle touch. You can eat barbecued peaches with burrata, minunceddha, chimichurri and salted almonds, or a fiery “assassina” version of fried rice.

But also crispy baby octopus with alioli sauce, and indulgent desserts such as “Memory of a Kiss in Capri” or pasticciotto cake with artisanal coffee ice cream. Alongside, a wine list that embraces the best of the Apulian territory, paired with some refined international labels.

A young chef, passionate and contemporary in his ideas, which however never cease to draw from the deepest tradition. More than a restaurant, a lifestyle of a glamorous Salento at the table.