by Nadia Taglialatela
A historic sign, yet alive and vibrant, that shows how quality can be achieved while remaining faithful to tradition and, at the same time, at the “fair” prices of the pizza world in Naples. On this professional creed, Carmine Esposito has built a solid and lasting project: Carmnella, his pizzeria, which for years has been rewarded by a loyal and numerous clientele. A reliable landmark, open for both lunch and dinner, with the sole exception of Sunday, a sacred day for Neapolitans, to be spent with the family in front of a ragù that simmers for hours.
The menu is a small journey: from the most classic pizzas, treated with care and expressed in versions that explore the different tomatoes of Campania – almost a regional tale within the tale of the Marinara or the Margherita – to the contemporary proposals, measured with precision, without ever falling into the temptation of showmanship for its own sake. The dough follows the new Neapolitan school: light and digestible, with technical improvements introduced at just the right moment, without ever betraying the standards of the regulations.
A stone’s throw from the station
Carmnella is not only a pizzeria: it is also a trattoria, a place of memory and family. The very name, a diminutive of Carmela, recalls the great-grandmother of Vincenzo Esposito, today the guardian of tradition. A story handed down from generation to generation, adding depth to the pleasure of the table.
The atmosphere is welcoming, strategic for those arriving by train or for those exploring the city, as it is located close to Naples station, and it preserves that homely feeling so often found in the shadow of Vesuvius. This, perhaps, is the key to its success: a balance between controlled innovation and very solid roots, which makes Carmnella an address not to be missed for those seeking the most authentic Naples, served on a steaming plate.