In 8 labels, the new life of Caldaro’s Schiava: our tastings

by Raffaele Mosca

It was an almost forgotten grape variety, rarely found on shelves. Now, it is experiencing a revival. We are talking about Schiava, a traditional wine and symbol of Alto Adige's viticulture. A "renaissance" also linked to the tourist appeal of the wine's cult location. If wine once sparked the tourism boom, today the influx of visitors is shaping Schiava production in the municipality of Caldaro and its surroundings, creating a buzz among tiny winemakers—sometimes almost garage-based—that is rare in many other areas of this region.

Schiava from Lake Caldaro

Not that there aren't also wine giants here: after the 2016 merger with Erste + Neue, Cantina Kaltern (the Caldaro cooperative) became the largest in Alto Adige, managing more than half of the over 700 hectares of vineyards in the municipality, amounting to about 14% of the regional surface area. Alongside this entity, small and very small winemakers have multiplied, starting to make their wines again, on a small scale. But also delivering pleasant surprises… here are some we present to you.

94
Kalterersee Classico Plantaditsch 2022

Klosterhof
From vines between 25 and 85 years old, vinified with a small percentage of whole clusters, it offers enchanting aromas of wild strawberry, rose water, and a hint of oriental spices. The stem and carbonic maceration sculpt a sip of rare allure and freshness, with a very juicy fruit core and a vibrant finish that invites a second sip. To be tried blind in a flight of Pinot Noir to be pleasantly surprised.

93
Kalterersee Classico Arthur Rainer 2023

Seeperle
Currant, peony, anise, and some wild brushstrokes define a surprisingly complex nose. The sip has more body than others, but also good freshness and a slight hint of tannin that helps in pairing with classic South Tyrolean recipes, polenta first and foremost. The '22 tasted tête-à-tête shows that it also evolves very well.

92
Kalterersee Classico Superiore Leitn 2023

Thomas Unterhofer
Very few bottles for an original wine, initially sanguine and then balsamic and peppery, perfectly evocative of the high position—450-500 meters—of the vineyards it comes from. Light, slender, with very refreshing acidity and a saline vein that lengthen the sip and make it easy to pair with rich, fatty dishes.

92
Kalterersee Classico Superiore Quintessenz 2023

Kaltern
From vines aged between 40 and 100 years, the selection from the region's largest cooperative winery relies on elegance, with floral, balsamic, and freshly picked bramble fruit aromas. Soft and relatively light, it pairs excellently with both freshwater and sea fish.

91
Kalterersee Der Keil 2024

Manincor
Just released, it undergoes a brief aging in large barrels and has a classic nose of liquorice, herbs, and geranium. Pushed on acidity and almost herbaceous freshness at this stage, the 2019 tasted immediately after shows that in a few years it will settle and gain a bit more volume, becoming a gastronomic all-rounder.

90
Kalterersee Classico Peterleiten 2023

Peter Sölva
A dark profile of chinotto, blackberries, and spices is followed by a palate above average in incisiveness and structure, with a slight tannic perception that gives depth and peppery returns that enliven the precise finish. Roast chicken or tagliatelle with speck and cheese.

90
Kalterersee Classico Superiore Vigna Bischofslaiten 2024

Castel Sallegg
Set to be released in autumn 2025, the preview version of this wine from one of the area's most historic private companies has a simple and captivating nose of strawberry and red flowers, followed by a soft and composed sip, with a precise and smooth finish. Soups and tomato-based pastas.

90
Kalterersee Classico Prey 2024

Oberpreyhof
Wild currant, pepper, and herbs compose a simple but particularly fine nose. It is light, immediate, highly enjoyable in its simplicity, with a citrusy and saline finish that reflects the image of the vineyards above 400 meters altitude. It passed the pairing test with Kalterersee salami with flying colours.