Great age-worthy whites: the case of Angelo Gaja’s Chardonnay that has won over collectors

by Cesare Pillon

There are few Italian white wines that appear at auctions and achieve high-level recognition. Among these stands out Gaja & Rey, born from the first estate where Chardonnay was cultivated in the Langhe. Over time, that vineyard—originally created in defiance of convention and amid great controversy — has become an old vine, a symbol of tradition.

Angelo Gaja’s challenge

Angelo Gaja dedicated this wine on the label to his daughter Gaia and his grandmother Clotilde Rey, and perfected the ageing process in barriques—a technique he was among the first to practise in Italy. Investors and collectors have shown appreciation for this care: the figures paid for the ten vintages of Gaja & Rey listed in the table have increased this year by a significant 23 per cent, from €1,900.29 to €2,336.21.

Cervaro della Sala

A completely different story applies to another white evaluated at auctions: Cervaro della Sala. Created in 1985 by Riccardo Cotarella, oenologist for the Antinori marquises at the Castello della Sala, it was inspired by the SuperTuscan formula and combined the native Grechetto grape with the international Chardonnay variety. It was welcomed at its debut as the first Italian white of a new generation. However, that enthusiasm has never translated into the commercial phase: the sale prices of these bottles are a third of those of Gaja & Rey. A rise in value may occur soon, but for now Cervaro della Sala’s prices are on a downward trend. This year, at auction, the total valuation of the four vintages listed in the table has fallen from €325 to €243.