They had their own language, dress code, magazines, films, and well-defined musical preferences. A subculture to all intents and purposes, made in Italy without fearing counterfeits: the paninari sandwich eaters marked the 1980s in many Italian cities, but it was in Milan that it all started and ended. In Piazza Liberty there was Al Panino, the venue symbol of an era: dozens, hundreds of young people would gather here and officiate the social ritual of the “comitiva”, the posse of friends, sandwiches and fast food as the symbol of a carefree, flamboyant and vain lifestyle. There was also the Burghy in San Babila, a real innovation at the time, an American-style fast food (however very Italian) that brought together many young people, but the paninari soul dwelled above all in the bars and in the squares opposite it. At the end of the decade the fashion faded, but in Milan the “sandwich bars” certainly did not disappear, on the contrary: alongside them, new addresses arrived that brought more modern and international versions of the street food par excellence. Here are the best spots in the city.
The best sandwiches in Milan
Bar Quadronno
From the outside it looks like any other bar, but once you cross the threshold your mouth is guaranteed to water. The sandwiches here are a guarantee. Perhaps more expensive than large, they will not fail to win you over with their thousands of varieties. Very tasty are the ones with cured meats, refined and of excellent quality such as wild boar ham or coppa, but the options are endless and to suit all tastes.
Bar Quadronno – via Quadronno, 34 – barquadronno.it
De Santis
Of the various locations that have been opened in recent years (and not only in the city), the historic Corso Magenta location retains a timeless charm: small, long and narrow, it looks almost like a mountain hut, all furnished with dark wood furniture. As soon as you enter, on the left, you will find dozens of bowls full of sauces, pickles, cheeses and, a little further on, ham, salmon and culatello. Special ingredients that end up inside De Santis' express sandwich, prepared with crispy, super-stuffed bread. Don't be afraid to dare and even order extravagant versions because quality is guaranteed.
De Santis – corso Magenta, 9 – paninidesantis.it
Porcobrado
What makes the Porcobrado sandwich so special? A design studied down to the tiniest detail and ingredients made in Tuscany, starting with the Cinta Senese meat, bred in-house, which is first smoked and then marinated and finished cooking with oak wood from Cortona - where the restaurant's headquarters are located - in a special barbecue designed for the brand. Rustic and tasty is also the bread, made with a mixture of flours from ancient grains, also Tuscan. And again in honour of the region, there is also a bbq version with schiacciata.
Porcobrado – via Jacopo del Verme, 17 – porcobrado.com
Katsusanderia
Yoji Tokuyoshi is one of the most esteemed chefs on the Italian gastronomic scene and his Bentoteca is a must-visit address in the city: outside those walls, Tokuyoshi's cuisine can be sampled at Sidewalk Kitchens. in a pop and democratic version, facing directly onto the street. Katsusanderia offers tasty, authentic street food, starting with katsusando, a Japanese sandwich in four versions: the Classic with pork loin, the Tamago with eggs topped with Japanese mayonnaise, the Chicken teriyaki and the Ebi Fry Sando with shrimp in tempura, all with homemade shokupan (Japanese milk bread) every day.
Katsusanderia – via Bonvesin de la Riva, 3 – katsusanderia.com
Fud Bottega Sicula
Abundance is the hallmark of this restaurant that has its origins in Sicilian soil. And how could it be otherwise? It is well known that Sicilian generosity is best understood at the table. This does not mean, however, that the quality has to be compromised. On the contrary, Andrea Graziano's Catania format works thanks to the ingredients - island and otherwise - and the direct relationships with suppliers, both for food and drinks. Among the sandwiches to try are the classic bread and panelle, and the hamburger with buffalo meat from Ragusa, but the hot dogs with Black Ibleo pork sausages are also worth trying.
Fud Bottega Sicula – via Casale, 8 – fud.it
Macelleria Popolare
Giuseppe Zen, even with a queue of customers waiting, has an explanation for everyone on the type of cut, cooking times, and the right combination with wine. Only red meat, important maturations, delicacies for gourmands. A sign for shopping, but also for lunch breaks: there is no shortage of sandwiches of all kinds, from the lampredotto sandwich (a must try) to the classic hamburger. Many options for lovers of offal.
Macelleria Popolare – Piazza Ventiquattro Maggio, 4
Pavé Birra di Quartiere
War brewery pints plus a variety of bottled beers and a small menu of hot dogs, pulled pork sandwiches and savoury snacks: this is the winning formula of Pavé Birra di Quartiere, the perfect place to stop for a refreshing break after work. The flagship of the menu are the artisan hot dogs, with prime meats and never banal combinations, the perfect accompaniment to a good mug of beer. Another location in Via Giambellino, 42.
Pavé Birra di Quartiere – via F. Casati, 24 – birradiquartiere.it
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