Etna and Langhe on the conquest of France. Where does this odd alliance come from that will bring the two consortia to Paris

The alliance with the producers of the Langhe, on the conquest of France. The evolution of Etna winemaking between the risks of rushing ahead and the growth of entrepreneurial culture. The tumultuous growth of the volcano’s white wines. The new edition of the Etna Days. The entry of Catania among the wine cities. We talked about it, on the sidelines of the 45th edition of ViniMilo, with Seby Costanzo, owner of Cantine di Nessuno, long-time member of the Etna consortium board and today delegate for the promotion of the territory.

On 4 November next, 30 wineries from Etna and Langhe will be on a joint mission to Paris, at the Pavillon Wagram. What is the meaning and origin of this unprecedented “alliance sacrée”?

It comes from an agreement made at Vinitaly in 2024. With the Strada del Barolo and the Consorzio Vini del Piemonte we discussed things to do together: a relationship full of stimulating input was born. We organised a first visit to Barolo in November and then hosted them on Etna in February, during the days of the feast of Saint Agatha: I personally accompanied them through the celebrating crowds during the passage of the candelore and the exit of the senate carriage from the town hall. We have long said they are cousin territories.

The Wagram Pavillon in Paris

But Barolo has 100 years more of history…

Commercially speaking, that’s true: they have been on the fine wine market for a long time, moreover the same niche we are looking at. However, I wouldn’t say the same about winemaking history. We have been producing grapes for centuries: it’s just that until 30–40 years ago these wines went elsewhere. Today we are now considered an established territory that has become a point of reference. Together we are representative of the country. It makes sense that two territories with such strong personalities talk to each other. After all, we are cousin territories and alone you don’t get far. That is why we imagined making a sortie abroad: the French market is opening up given the current difficulties, a novelty to seize considering that the French are very protective of their territory.

So you do perceive an unprecedented interest from the French?

I would say yes. Of course, the tariffs issue makes everyone think differently and look carefully elsewhere. During Wine Paris, some representatives of local wine shops complained that for the French the prices of Burgundy wines had risen too much. They greatly appreciated our products, which are very reminiscent of the French ones and suit the taste of their customers. Many French come personally to Etna to buy wine from me and other local producers and then resell it back home.

Wine Paris 2024

What strategies have you agreed upon with the group of Barolo producers?

We have never talked about common commercial strategies. The Paris event is aimed at the horeca world and journalists with walk-around tastings and masterclasses. We are going to their home with 15 Etna producers and 15 Barolo producers, all with great personality, and then we’ll see the reactions of the audience confronting us. Together we can offer top-level prestigious Italian representation. By history and diversity, our wines are not in competition. Etna offers things that others do not: the reds are already well positioned, but now we are discovering that the whites are a very strong expression of the territory.

In a recent interview for Gambero Rosso, Salvo Foti expressed some concern about the evolution of the Etna territory. He says: one thing is making wines “on Etna”, another is making wines “of Etna”…

The slogan is spot on, there is a substantial difference. Even I, if I were to make wine elsewhere, would probably first have to learn the local language. Some big names came here and produced wines to be discarded. Many outside oenologists with a very respectable reputation have passed through here but today attention to the territory is increasingly important. Etna wines must be an expression of the territory, you have to learn over the years from the farmers who hand down a winemaking history, you can’t make here wines that you could make anywhere. Etna offers great diversity: slopes, exposures, soil, altitudes. You need to translate the territory and bring it to the highest possible expression. Some producers consult with the oenologist only over the phone, but even Cotarella would tell you that the territory must be known. The positive aspect is that more and more a producer style is being built: Foti says it too.

Vineyards in Milo, Etna

Foti also criticises the excess of improvisation and the arrival of speculators…

If the style is improvised we only have an evolution of the concept of homemade wine. It is a risk, but it does not seem to me the biggest. I see more another: some producers are pushing very hard on the accelerator and this clashes with sustainability. If the goal is to increase the product there is the risk of reducing quality. We must be careful. With a board resolution the consortium tried to strongly limit the development of the territory: maximum one hectare per year per producer. On that occasion there were tensions, then unanimously overcome. But 3–4 producers were pushing towards other ideas. Today everyone tells us: “Don’t go overboard”. That means we had seen rightly.

Investing on Etna is now “cool”…

“Cool” is an expression that on Etna is a contraindication. The risk of investments that distort is there: we must take strong but not fast steps. Let’s stay firmly planted on our axes. This is not a territory that allows running. Land values rise, but slowly: we are still far from Langhe prices. In terms of production we went in four years from one and a half million bottles to 6 million in four years. But we cannot jump to 30 million bottles: that would be the massacre of the territory.

ViniMilo 2025

Beyond these risks and ‘temptations’, how do you assess the footprint of local producers today?

We no longer say that the credit for the growth of Etna goes to foreigners, to whom, like Frank Cornelissen, we must acknowledge great commercial skill. As Foti said, the forerunner of everything was Benanti: at a time when nothing was clear he decided to invest, he made his mistakes and gradually got there. He remains a 200,000-bottle producer. For me the strongest resource of Etna winemaking is the arrival of people from the world of business, from pharmaceuticals to construction. I am talking about about twenty entrepreneurs from Catania who also demand organised processes from wineries and who have brought know-how that was previously lacking. Thanks to these contributions today we can boast a high level of materials used – for example, those who make wine on Etna in 99 per cent of cases use the Burgundy bottle –, attention to sustainability, better relational skills, an entrepreneurial culture which, together, represent the corollary of reputational growth.

Meanwhile, from ViniMilo reaching its 45th edition comes a message: Etna Bianco DOC is growing, also in the ‘superiore’ version specific to the Milo area, and is a candidate to play a leading role in the national wine scene.

Etna Bianco can become an iconic Italian wine: I am among those who said so precisely in Milo and who have thought so for a while. I think of the great whites of Trentino Alto Adige, I think of Piedmont’s Timorasso. But apart from those there are only single great grape varieties, from Grillo to Fiano. But a white wine of territory that stands out as representative of a country does not yet exist: Etna whites can become that, they have all it takes also for the diversity and longevity they manage to demonstrate. I myself in my production have three types of whites that are expressions of the diversity of the volcano, of the place where the vineyards are located and of the way of vinifying the grapes. The compliment I liked most is this: “Your wines are interesting because they are at the same time wines of the sea and of the mountain.” It is the territory that allows it.

Seby Costanzo

The Etna Days are coming. You are no longer on the consortium board but have retained the delegation for promotion and events. Where are we on this path?

The Etna Days were born in 2018–19 from the discussions of that board with Antonio Benanti, Alberto Aiello, Graziano Nicosia and myself in 2018–19. I am a great supporter, but I believe that Etna is a particular territory: due to its diversity producers do not always have the latest vintage ready. That’s why I don’t know if holding the event every year makes sense, since there are so many other occasions, it might be appropriate to make the Etna Days biennial. I believe it will go in that direction.

Etna is growing. But you have argued that there is a lack of central coordination: what do you mean?
I find we are exaggerating with events everywhere and at all times, creating confusion. On Etna there are twenty municipalities: many organise their own event and now the wine attraction has become rampant. Is it right? Does it work? I have some doubts. Journalists are always looking for news but with this inflation of events often there is no news.

Catania

Could this be solved with the implementation of your project: the recognition of Catania as a “City of Wine”?

I can say with pride that Catania is already formally a “City of Wine” thanks to a recent city council resolution and thus becomes part of the national association of wine cities. But this entails a responsibility: if Catania is the wine city of Etna as soon as you arrive at the airport you must already understand it, you must feel inside the vineyard. Catania is experiencing exponential growth in tourism: those who visit should experience a place in the way closest to the residents. This means that a welcome at the entrance and signs in the streets are needed.

And could this be where unified coordination comes into play?

Of course. The Region of Sicily provides contributions for the promotion of individual Etna towns. But rather than investing €10,000 for every small event, wouldn’t it be better to give €200,000 to an event involving everyone? We don’t need banners, but a travelling reality with a single mood, in which everyone speaks the same language. Catania, as the metropolitan city that encompasses all municipalities, can play this role.