Guida Pizzerie d'Italia
Pies or cut in squares and sold by weight, Roman or Neapolitan, as part of a tasting menu or eaten in the street, as long as well crafted, pizza is always the protagonist of the Italian gastronomic scene, a product that––we will never tire of saying it––continues to intrigue a growing slice of the public. Not only the niche of pizza enthusiasts, but a host of consumers who have become more demanding and attentive, who ask questions, make pizzaioli accountable, talking about flour, grains and leavening. And the masters of the Italian pizza art respond, showing off their talent: those who master in the fried version, or those who excel in the airiness of their crusts, or in the sublime and perfectly harmonious condiments, those who bake pies with bulging rims, and those who who shine in the flatness of their discs. These pros continue to bring home great results, year after year: 600 venues, 62 Three Spicchi (maximum recognition for the pies) and the 10 Tre Rotelle (maximum recognition for the pizza sold by weight) of the latest edition of the Pizzerie guide of Italy 2019 confirm this
It doesn't stop at that: pizza pros are drawing an increasingly complex and articulated landscape, so structured that it requires close analysis. No more just Spicchi and Rotelle, therefore, but also scores, based on the quality of the offer, the ambiance and service. The result is an attentive snapshot of the world of pizza, divided into the various categories of the sector, from Neapolitan pizza to sample tastings pies. Before traveling through Italy to discover the best places, a clarification: the new score system requires an even more meticulous selection of the pizzerias, which in this new series will be included only if owning more than 85 points total. What follows is the best pizzerias (pies and squares) in the province of Verona.
Araldo Arte del Gusto
The consolidated duo formed by Vittorio and Sonia continues to reap success in the small Veneto town. Merit goes to the excellent ingredients and the great passion and expertise that the two pizza makers share, plus the intense research work done on their dough. At the base of everything are organic flours, sourdough starter and then tasty and balanced condiments, such as stracciatella and tomatoes or the vegetarian pie with crisp vegetables and a dusting of parmigiano. Service and the craft beer menu are equally interesting, as well as the commendable wine selection.
Araldo Arte del Gusto – Bosco Chiesanuova (VR) – c.da Carcereri, 22 – www.araldoartedelgusto.it
A couple at work and at home, Petra Antolini and Lorenzo Giacopuzzi have transformed the Settimo Cielo restaurant, completely renewing its offer after the Petra’s studies at the University of Pizza. Since 2016 the place has taken on a new appearance: Italian flours, sourdough starter, minimum leavening time of 48 hours and 4 different dough options, including one gluten-free cooked in an electric oven. Among the unmissable toppings are the "innovation" pizzas, such as Regina Pomo D'Oro, with fiordilatte cheese from Agerola, yellow and red vine ripened tomatoes del piennolo and basil, and then the classics revisited, starting from the bianca with tuna fillets and Tropea onions. The pizza creations can also be enjoyed in the sqaures sold by weight version in the nearby Casa Petra, where pizza lovers can also buy bread and focaccia.
Settimo Cielo – Pescantina (VR) – via E. Bernardi, 1 – www.pizzeriasettimocielo.net
Three Spicchi and 96 points for the sample tasting pizza of Simone Padoan, reference point for bread baking in Italy. He is a master of bread dough that has redefined the role of pizza with creativity, technique and a lot of research. Those who sit down at his table discover above all prime quality ingredients that meet a sliced crust made with selected flours and natural leavening procedures. Seven types of crusts, all topped with tasty specialties, such as red shrimp ceviche, or pulled guinea-fowl meat, combined with parmigiano and spinach. Not just pizza, but also excellent desserts, wines and beers, too, without forgetting the service, that is impeccable and able to enhance many of Padoan's creations.
I Tigli – San Bonifacio (VR) – via Camporosolo, 11 – www.pizzeriaitigli.it
His name is Renato Bosco, but everyone in the industry knows him as the "pizza-researcher". Because of the yeasts and doughs the Veronese master has worked with over the years. With the fervor of a true scholar and the consistancy of an enthusiast driven by unconditional love for his work. In recent years, he took many important steps: moving locations to the heart of the country, the addition of seats in a completely new environment in the premises that once was dedicated only to the take-out. The excellent quality of the offer however remains unchanged, even more varied and suitable for every palate. In addition to the now popular "double crunch", is a crispy stuffed version, it's impossible to resist a taste of the soft and light "aria di pane". Then, there's the new "bagel pizza", cooked in curry–, beer–, Campari or Amarone flavored water, and then baked in the oven again. Equally sublime are the appetizers and desserts.
Saporè – San Martino Buon Albergo (VR) – p.zza del Popolo, 46 – www.boscoorenato.it
Assaporito Guglielmo Vuolo Verona
Guglielmo Vuolo is not only one of the best pizza chefs in Italy, his Neapolitan style pizza Lungomare Caracciolo, made with fiordilatte, fried anchovies, crunchy seaweed and grated lemon, has won one of the special prizes as pizza of the year in the latest edition of the guide. The reason is simple: it's a light and digestible pie, perfectly flavored with a mix of first choice ingredients. It's a Neapolitan pie made in a modern key, and the result of a meticulous study on healthy dough, and more than 50 years of experience in the field. Others not to be missed: the Montanara Fusion with tomato sauce, the Fritta di Mare with cod and crispy escarole, and the Calzone stuffed with genovese, fiordilatte, radicchio and cheese.
Assaporito Guglielmo Vuolo Verona – Verona – v.le del Lavoro, 32 a – www.guglielmovuolo.com
Du De Cope
Change of look for Giancarlo Perbellini's place: new design furnishings that create a warm and familiar atmosphere, and an ever-growing menu based on a careful selection of ingredients that top long-rising dough discs with a well-shaped rim. An example is the "Capitelli" pizza topped with ham, or the Margherita with bufala, and also the pizza topped with cabbage, porcini mushrooms and tastasal powder, with lard, anchovies and confit tomatoes. Do not miss the schiacciate flatbreads, the salads and appetizers, as well as the desserts, coming directly from the Dolce Locanda, also by Perbellini. To accompany everything, a great selection of beers on tap and bottled.
Du De Cope – Verona – galleria Pellicciai, 10 – www.pizzeriadudecope.it
Pizza sold by weight
Saporè Pizza Bakery
Bosco is again the king in the Veronese pizza scene. Also in the sold-by-weight version, available in the take-out place with a beautiful in plain view baking laboratory, where pasta and bread are also made. A sign that, in addition to having changed its name, the place is presented with more seating that finally offer the opportunity to taste the specialties of the house directly on site. The most popular here is the "crunch", a high hydration and mixed leavening dough able to keep the inside soft, with the famous "cloud effect". Toppings change constantly according to the master's inspiration, ranging from vegan with pumpkin cream, Jerusalem artichokes, leek and taggiasche olives; to tomato with buffalo, tomato, crispy sourdough starter with thyme, oregano, sweet paprika and basil. Also present here are the actual pizza pies, as well as the oblong slabs baked in electric ovens. For lovers of dessert, try the house biscuits or the big leavened desserts.
Saporè Pizza Bakery – San Martino Buon Albergo (VR) – via Ponte, 55 a – www.boscorenato.it
The name of Bosco comes back in a dominant way, as a hallmark for every type of offer. In this case, it's a venue located a few steps from the medieval monument in the square San Pietro Incarnario, managed together with Luca Foggi of Caffè Coloniale, who manages the coffee shop and cocktail bar, as well as the overseeing the choice of beers and soft drinks. The pizza is the same, the "crunch" and "double crunch" are enriched with the most disparate ingredients (zucchini, gorgonzola and walnuts, or mortadella and chèvre, just to name a few). A multi-purpose local that's suitable for all hours, from breakfast, with homemade desserts and exceptional yeasts, to the evening aperitivo.
La Torre – Verona – stradone Scipione Maffei, 1 – www.facebook.com/latorreverona/
by Michela Becchi
Pizzerie d'Italia del Gambero Rosso 2019 | 395 pages | euro 8,90 | The guide can be purchased at newsagents, bookshops and online