Eating in Milan: the best restaurants in the Isola area chosen by Gambero Rosso

Jan 17 2024, 15:03
To the north of Porta Garibaldi and bordering Porta Nuova, Isola has been one of Milan's coolest neighborhoods for some years now, a result of the gentrification of what the Milanese bourgeoisie once called Casbà de Milan due to its underworld associations. Today, it's a trendy area with its own charm, especially when it comes to food.

The name of the neighborhood, Isola, has ancient origins: already in the 1720s-23s, it appeared as Insola de Porta Comasina in the Cadastre. The area is defined by farm courtyards in the rural zone, bordered by watercourses (Seveso, Martesana, and Fontanili) adjacent to Comasina Street (now Corso Como). To the west, futuristic skyscrapers of Porta Nuova rise, "announced" by the Vertical Forest, where once there were watercourses and countryside; today, Liberty buildings and row houses stand alongside design structures.

Despite the disappearance of most social centers and post-war clubs, the "alternative" and barricading identity—fun fact: it was the only neighborhood to participate in the bread riots of 1898—is still evident. This is seen in the talking facades of Casa della Memoria (a civic space dedicated to commemorating victims of post-World War II and terrorism), mosaics reproducing photos of historical events important to the city. But Isola is also "cool" when it comes to food and wine. Between Via Borsieri, Via Volturno, and Via Pollaiuolo, there's a lively scene of restaurants, cafes, bistros, and contemporary pit stops for both quick bites and longer stays. Here are the best addresses according to us.

Eating in Milan: The Best Restaurants in the Isola Area Chosen by Gambero Rosso

Restaurants, trattorias, wine bars

Da Berti

Restaurant. The idea of the Di Paolo brothers—already protagonists in Milanese cuisine with the three 'A Riccione' group venues—has successfully revived a historic sign not far from Palazzo Lombardia. A sea of tables between indoor rooms, the veranda, and the outdoor area where period furnishings and contemporary taste immediately make guests feel at home. The menu is extensive: tartare, carpaccio, and cold cuts boards; risottos and homemade pasta; cutlets, steaks, and a large grill section; indulgent desserts. No style exercises, just absolute precision. An 800-label wine cellar at reasonable prices. The service never loses its thread even in crowded situations. The immediate success is not surprising.

Da Berti - via Francesco Algarotti, 2 - 02 6694627 - daberti.it

CRU

Wine Bar. Nomen omen. Jacopo Ercolani's passionate offer, both on the food and wine fronts, follows a philosophy that focuses on artisans working with respect for the land and products. Therefore, there's a fine selection of "natural" wines (from small productions in Italy and Europe) and gastronomic specialties (mostly from Marche and Parco della Valle del Ticino), each carrying its own story, which can be shared upon request or even by the producers themselves, who are sometimes guests in events. Another location in Piazza Sempione.

CRU - via U. Bassi, 24 - 342 3040081 - crumilano.com

Ratanà

Restaurant. Cesare Battisti is always there, an analog bug in Milan's skyscraper world, with his small and cultured "trattoria" steeped in a non-postcard Milanese identity, which is his definition of modernity. A farmer at heart, Battisti works with a light touch of respect for raw materials. The menu gives special attention to freshwater fish (smoked trout brick, wild arugula, molten yolk, green pepper, and radishes), but there are also classic dishes (Old Milan risotto) and contemporary classics (tomato 2.0 risotto). Noteworthy are the small array of starters, such as Russian salad, mondeghili (Milanese meatballs), whipped cod with crusco pepper powder, and desserts like peas, coconut, and pistachio. Wines from small producers, and you can take home the opened bottle. The service is increasingly attentive, and complimentary bread and cover are not insignificant.

Ratanà - via G. De Castillia, 28 - 02 87128855 - ratana.it

Osteria dei Vecchi Sapori

Trattoria. This venue, about to celebrate its 30th anniversary, exudes a pleasant and relaxed convivial atmosphere. The cuisine is based on fresh and seasonal products, mainly from the region. Taragna polenta, made with plenty of butter and Branzi cheese, takes center stage, both as an accompaniment (with ossobuco, pot roast, pork shank, and various grilled cheeses) and served "absolute." The delicious homemade desserts are worth a taste. To complete the picture, house wine and a few discreet labels.

Osteria dei Vecchi Sapori – via Carmagnola, 3 – 02 6686148 – osteriavecchisapori.com

Bistros, breweries, pizzerias, Asians

BeerShow

Brewery. Five taps of Italian and foreign craft beer and well-stocked refrigerators with bottles and cans are the ingredients for the success of this lively neighborhood brewery entering its eighth year of activity. A reference point for genre enthusiasts, managed by friendly and helpful staff who periodically organize events dedicated to the best Italian breweries.

BeerShow - via P. Borsieri, 30 - 379 1824155 - Facebook

Berberè

Pizzeria. Salvatore and Matteo Aloe's brand (headquarters in Castel Maggiore) has multiplied its locations in Italy—and in London—maintaining the project of a high-quality pop pizza. The Milanese locations are five (Isola, Centrale, Navigli, Colonne, and Porta Romana).

Berberè - via Sebenico, 21 - 02 36707820 - berberepizza.it

The Botanical Club

Bistro. Complete with an in-house micro-distillery, it's a must for gin lovers and, in general, those who appreciate non-trivial drinks, now a reference point for mixed drink enthusiasts. Born in 2015, it offers mixology with well-executed classics and intriguing twists, as well as a menu of contemporary hot and cold dishes. The ambiance features industrial-style furnishings.

The Botanical Club - via Pastrengo, 11 - 02 36523846 - botanicalclub.com

Casaramen

Japanese. For those who love the specialty of the Japanese people, this is a "cult" place, inconspicuous from the street except for the long line during peak hours. Inside, a communal table and a counter where ramen is prepared in four variations: the classic tonkotsu (in a broth made with long-cooked pork bones and meat), the spicier "miso on fire," the vegan one, and a "dry" option. Simplicity in this case rhymes with perfection on the plate, with top-quality ingredients and maximum attention to technique. There are also bao buns, and the cellar offers some sake and a couple of Japanese beers.

Casaramen - via L. Porro Lambertenghi, 25 - 02 39444560 - casaramen.it

Casaramen Super

Japanese. For those not satisfied with the essential. Casaramen, a five-minute walk will reveal a more elaborate world in its spin-off. Here, apart from four ramen versions (the vegetarian one is a cult favorite), there's a small menu using many (good) Italian ingredients with Japanese techniques and an eye on trends, such as the bao section. Also interesting are real dishes like "trout on fire," fried red turnips, and chawamushi. The house's pride is famously the made-in-Italy soy sauce. The venue is pleasant, and the service is fast. And it's worth trying some sake.

Casaramen Super - via U. Bassi, 26 - 02 83529210 - casaramen.it

Opà Opà

Greek. A small tavern where you can explore Greek cuisine in Milan. In addition to gyros pita offered in many variations, including vegetarian options, you can discover the main specialties: souvlaki, moussakà, dolmades, and tasty house sauces to accompany the dishes. The extensive menu is passionately explained by the staff. Preparations can be taken away or consumed on-site.

Opà Opà - via Luigi Porro Lambertenghi, 19 - 02 52512298 - Facebook

Vurria Milano

Pizzeria. Here, aloe juice and gel, extracted from the fleshy leaves of aloe, combine with type 1 flours without altering the base flavor of the dough. The leavening, at least 30 hours, yields a light and digestible result. The menu is extensive, with classic or more original options. At lunch, a lunch menu with pizza or alternatives from the kitchen is available, also for dinner. Good desserts. Young and bright service and a valid wine list. Another location at Via della Moscova 27.

Vurria Milano - via P. Borsieri, 28 - 02 49423783 - vurria.com

Street Food, gourmet breaks, sandwich shops

ANCHE

Gourmet Break. Three locations (the other two are in Via Perugino 18 and Via Oxilia 7) characterized by simple and essential furnishings and a pleasant and informal atmosphere, but above all, by the presence of the original "wrong cutlet" on the menu. It's a Milanese cutlet made with pork meat and enhanced with various ingredients like almond granules and orange zest, pistachio and lime, or yogurt and chives sauce.

ANCHE - via Carmagnola, 5 (ang. via Pastrengo) - 331 8224002 - anche.it

Olo Olo

Street Food. The tiny Olo Olo has been active since 2018 in the heart of the neighborhood, just a stone's throw from the historic Blue Note Jazz Club. The house specialty is Chinese dumplings, six different types, strictly handmade. Each filling has a different-colored dough: for example, red for the addition of beet juice for those with beef, mushrooms, and ginger; green for the addition of spinach for those filled with tofu, Chinese mushrooms, and soybean noodles. Small inside, with outdoor seating, it's ideal for a quick break or takeout.

Olo Olo - via P. Borsieri, 41 - 02 66806909 - Facebook 

Porcobrado

Sandwich Shop. A pork sandwich that has been winning awards for years. What makes it so special? Certainly, a meticulously designed project and ingredients made in Tuscany, starting from Cinta Senese pork, raised in-house, which is first smoked and then marinated, finishing cooking with Cortona oak wood in a special barbecue designed for the brand. The rustic and flavorful bread is also made with a blend of ancient Tuscan flours.

Porcobrado - via J. Dal Verme, 17 - 338 3339120 - porcobrado.com

Sullenuvole

Gourmet Break. A multitasking address, a bit of a bar, to start the day with slow rhythms in welcoming spaces or when the weather is mild at outdoor tables. The venue is also suitable for a quick lunch, with proposals designed specifically for those who have to work afterward, or for an aperitif, with cocktails and glasses to accompany platters and snacks. The dinner moment features dishes of land and sea with seasonal ingredients and the right creative twist. Also, a wine bar.

Sullenuvole - via Garigliano, 12 - 02 69006955 - sullenuvolemilano.com

Ice Cream Parlors and Markets

Artico

Ice Cream Shop. For over a decade, this brand has been at the forefront with avant-garde proposals in terms of technique and taste pleasure. Absolute quality raw materials and no compromises on synthetic aromas, hydrogenated fats, and additives in general. Chocolate, a standout that fears no comparisons, is always available in several excellent alternatives (not to mention the annual Chocolate show apotheosis). There's ample space for pure nuts or to enhance many milk-based creams. For fruit enthusiasts, superb seasonal sorbets. Other locations: Via Dogana and Via Pacini.

Artico - via L. Porro Lambertenghi, 15 - 02 45494698 - gruppoartico.com

Mercato Comunale Isola

Market. A symbol of the neighborhood since 1946, open from 7 am to 12 am (on Mondays from 7 am to 3 pm), it is now a spacious and bright space with windows, Wi-Fi, and an environment that is also suitable for events and workshops. All the shops have a kitchen, so those passing by can buy or eat on-site: fish, meat, vegetables, fresh pasta, something exotic, drinks, desserts, and Io Sono Viva's ice creams, the female project by Viviana Varese, cook and owner of VIVA. All completely plastic-free.

Mercato Comunale Isola - p.le Lagosta, 7 - Instagram

Toldo

Ice Cream Shop. What might seem "only" a bar at first glance is an ice cream shop where classics are well made, starting from the creams. A taste for loyalists is the meringued semifreddo, ideal to accompany coffee. Seasonality mainly passes through fragrant fruit flavors, such as excellent strawberry. There's a good selection dedicated to lactose intolerants, especially for sorbets with extra virgin olive oil. Second location at Via Cesariano 8.

Toldo - via P. Borsieri, 7 - 02 24166540 - Instagram

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