A glass instead of a passport. Let's start from a non-existent airport, the Montalcino airstrip. Then, we soar over the peak of Mount Ararat in Armenia, walk through the vineyards of Victoria in Australia, once a pilgrimage destination for gold seekers, immerse ourselves in a lesser-known corner of Napa Valley. Not content, we sprint to Slovenia, and then, to the rhythm of Grenache, we round the Rhone Valley and Catalonia. The last stop of our journey is not so far from Barcelona. We attended the tasting organized by Cuzziol on January 22nd at the Field Space of Palazzo Brancaccio in Rome. Here are the wines that impressed us: a true tour of the world in seven stages.
Rosso di Montalcino 2022 Ridolfi
A Rosso di Montalcino that behaves like a Rosso di Montalcino. Airy and fragrant, juicy and rhythmic, a delight to drink. It has a perfectly calibrated medium weight, a smooth and supportive tannic structure, and a long and continuous finish. Gianni Maccari's sensitivity shines through, even in a warm vintage, whispering to Sangiovese Grosso like few others. The 2022 version is among his best. Priced at 28 euros.
Heritage Sireni 2019 Zorah
This splendid red reminds us of another ongoing conflict. From 2022, it will no longer be produced, as Zorik Gharibian tells us, due to the ongoing ethnic cleansing by Azerbaijanis against Armenians in Nagorno-Karabakh. The main variety is sireni, with a 20% blend of another native white berry variety: arati. A very pure and fragrant nose of pomegranate, wild berries, and lemon. The palate is graceful yet incisive, with a spicy touch of white pepper and licorice. It finishes long and nuanced with toasted almond tones. Priced at 60 euros.
Cliff Edge Shiraz 2019 Mount Langhi Ghiran
From Mount Ararat to the remote Grampians region of Victoria, Australia. A cold area, the harvest takes place two months later than the national average, in April. This Syrah has vivacity and plenty of personality, offering deep and lively drinking instead of the usual burst of pepper and eucalyptus. The old vines provide delicate sensations of root and spices, with lively acidity giving tension and progression. A lot of flavor and vitality in the finish. Vinified with whole clusters and judicious use of both new and used barrels. Priced at 20 euros.
Promontory 2019 Harland
A wine that reconciles us with Napa. We move to California along the southwest ridge of Oakville, a remote and wild area that produces a high-class Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines were planted in the '80s and '90s. Fine with balsamic and ripe black fruit notes, the palate is tactile, warm, tense, with juicy fruit and a solid, continuous structure. Not exactly budget-friendly: around 1,000 euros per bottle.
Pinot Noir Opoka 2019 Marjan Simčič
Carrot and stick. This Pinot Noir from the Brda region in Slovenia has two perfectly intertwined souls. Pale and bright in color, it caresses with delicate sensations of oolong tea, pomegranate, and raspberries. The palate is well-defined, progressive, with a great acidic impact balanced by flesh and a deep saline matrix. Tonic and vital finish, with a delicate herbaceous sensation intertwining with fruits and mineral hints in a context of vivid freshness. The vineyard is about 50 years old, located in the Breg cru, just steps from the Italian border. Priced at 50 euros.
La Chapelle 2013 Paul Jaboulet-Aîné
We taste a legendary cru from the northern Rhone Valley. We are among old Syrah vines in Le Mal and Les Bessards. The aromas are warm and Mediterranean, of thyme and myrtle, with intense and articulated gusts. The palate is dense and generous, compact, with a beautiful spicy and velvety depth. Long but somewhat predictable compared to other vintages tested in recent years. Priced at 260 euros.
Les Crestes 2021 Mas Doix
Catalonia to conclude. Lightly skimming the plateaus of Priorat: a classic blend of Grenache with a balance of Carignan and Syrah. It presents itself austere with tones of dried fruit, black olives, and juniper. The palate excites with freshness and relaxation, the tannins are graceful, the flavor thrust is clear and deep, with darker notes on the finish and a long memory of toasted almond and small black fruits. What energy! Priced at 22 euros.
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