A revolution called Calabria. What is happening in the region with the most native grape varieties

In less than a decade, the wine scene in Calabria has recovered part of the gap that separated it from all the other Italian regions. True, the vineyard area, although constantly growing, represents with its 9,000 hectares only 1.6% of the national figure and production in 2024 stood at just under 300,000 hectolitres, but these are economic factors with rather slow growth margins. The truly significant data are others: the increase in the number of wineries in the region but above all the exponential growth in the qualitative level of wines produced in the area.

Oenological renaissance

And on this point we at Gambero Rosso, from our privileged observatory – namely the work carried out in the field and the annual tastings – have no doubts: both the number of wines reaching our selections has grown considerably, and, significantly, the average score, that is the quality, attributed to them by our panels has risen.
If up to 10 years ago Calabrian wine was mainly identified with Cirò, this is no longer the case: the entire region is experiencing a renaissance of viticulture which, incidentally, thanks to the Greeks who arrived in the 8th century BC, is the oldest in the peninsula. It was they who introduced the alberello training system, wine vessels and their grape varieties to Italy.

A record in biodiversity

Calabria also holds another record: it is the Italian region with the richest ampelographic heritage, a fact certified by a long-term study carried out by Professors Scienza, Lanati, Fregoni and Schneider who, after extensive research across the region, catalogued around 200 native grape varieties – the germplasm, as one would say today – of the entire Calabria region. This is gathered in a striking spiral-shaped vineyard on the Rosaneti estate of the Librandi brothers, who at the time funded the research.

At present, Calabria is probably the most “fermenting” region in Italy – excuse the pun. Whereas up to ten years ago the wineries reviewed in the Guide barely reached a dozen, they have now more than tripled. They are largely recently established cellars that tell wonderful stories of returning to the land in every sense: women-led ventures, stories of redemption, but never improvised projects – even if born from emotions and pride, they are nonetheless well thought out. This is evident right from the almost universal choice to approach wine production with respect for the environment and biodiversity.

In conclusion, estimates for the 2025 harvest in Calabria indicate a quantitative increase of between 10 and 15%.