11 Vermentinos not to miss between Sardinia, Liguria and Tuscany

There are some grape varieties that more than others have travelled through space and time. Among the vineyards that caress the Tyrrhenian coasts and climb the sun-drenched hills of Sardinia, Vermentino stands out as one of the most emblematic grapes of Italian winemaking. Behind its aromatic profile and saline freshness that captivate nose and palate lies a complex story, interwoven with ancient trade routes, genetic migrations and ampelographic controversies that still today stimulate the interest of the scientific community.

A journey to the origins of Vermentino

The story of these clusters is shrouded in an aura of mystery that reflects the restlessness of the vine and the peoples of the Mediterranean. Vermentino belongs to a genetic group akin to western Mediterranean grape varieties, but its precise origins remain controversial. One of the most accredited hypotheses places it in the Ligurian-Provençal basin, probably in Corsica or on the Ligurian coast, from where it would then have spread to Sardinia, Tuscany and eventually also southern France, where it takes the name Rolle.

Sardinia, the elective homeland of Vermentino

The elective homeland of Vermentino today is Sardinia, where it has found ideal soil and climate conditions and has reached the status of Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) with Vermentino di Gallura. Here, among granite soils and the constant mistral wind – with many differences between the coast and the more inland areas that rise up to 600 metres above sea level – the grape expresses at its best its minerality, often accompanied by notes of Mediterranean scrub, peach and white flowers. But this grape is widespread throughout the Island and manages to be a sort of litmus test of the various territories in which it lives.

In Liguria, Vermentino is mainly cultivated in the Colli di Luni, on the border with Tuscany, where the resulting glass assumes a citrusy and savoury profile thanks to the poor soils and the influence of the sea; but interesting labels are not lacking also from the Riviera di Ponente. Tuscany represents another important production area, especially with the Maremma and the Bolgheri district: the results range from fresh and immediate versions to more complex interpretations, aged in wood.

Vermentino beyond Italy

The success of Vermentino is not limited to Italy: in recent years it has also attracted interest in countries such as California and Australia. So much so that for four editions now there has even been a national wine competition (concors overmentino.com) in which labels from other parts of the world also participate.

Here is a selection of excellent Vermentinos.
In the following tasting notes (by William Pregentelli) the score is expressed in hundredths.

Sardinia

94
Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Kramori ’23 – Saraja

Among the various areas in which it operates, Saraja gives great importance to Gallura. From here comes one of the most interesting Vermentinos tasted this summer. The Kramori presents an aromatic profile reminiscent of citrus, white and yellow peaches and a salty breeze. The sip is cohesive and intact, savoury, dense with flavour yet able to move with agility.

92
Vermentino di Sardegna Tuvaoes ’23 – Cherchi

When Giovanni Maria Cherchi founded his company in the 1970s, he set himself the goal of telling the story of the Usini area, with its calcareous-clay soils. Also through the Tuvaoes, a Vermentino which, in the 2023 version, smells of sage, citrus peel, white peach, an elegant and well-calibrated register, fresh and with great sapidity.

92
Vermentino di Sardegna Su’Imari ’24 – Su’Entu

In Marmilla the vine roots sink into poor soils but the grapes manage to ripen excellently in this beautiful district. Here is born the Su’Imari ’24: citrus fruits, iodine streaks, yellow and white flowers frame a relaxed and fresh sip, endowed with fruity flesh, with a long, marine finish.

91
Vermentino di Gallura Sup. Thilibas ’24 – Cantina Pedres

The company’s 80 hectares lie in the Gallura area at about 300 metres above sea level. The emblem of the range, broad and multifaceted, is Vermentino, the protagonist grape of the area. And of this label: the Thilibas ’24 smells of lemon peel and mint, has a beautiful iodised mouth, fleshy in the fruit that recalls peach and melon. Very moreish.

Liguria

92
Colli di Luni Vermentino Et. Nera ’24 – Lvnae Bosoni

By now the Etichetta Nera of Lunae Bosoni has become a great classic when it comes to Vermentino. The 2024 version presents a wide floral bouquet, streaked with iodine and mineral veins. The palate is on the same register, very sharp but able to combine a juicy fruity sensation with a pleasantly savoury background.

91
Colli di Luni Vermentino Boboli ’24 – Giacomelli

The company was founded in Castelnuovo Magra at the beginning of the 1990s. At the helm is Roberto Petacchi, who over the years has transformed the family farm into a winery dedicated above all to the production of Vermentino. One of his flagship labels is the Boboli: flowers and white peach on the nose, subtle and elegant, fresh, with pleasantly herbaceous traits.

91
Colli di Luni Vermentino Vigne Basse ’24 – Terenzuola

The vineyards cultivated by Ivan Giuliani are distributed over several territories: some of these are in the Cinque Terre; others in the Colli di Luni DOC, a denomination on the border between two regions, Liguria and Tuscany. From here comes the Vigne Basse ’24: lively already on the nose which blends light citrus fruits and aromatic herbs, it has a tasty, spirited and delicious palate.

Tuscany

90
Bolgheri Vermentino Zizzolo ’24 – Fornacelle

Captivating in its delicacy, with subtle yet defined aromas of summer fruit, wild herbs, flint and a memory of hazelnut. Agile, sharp and saline, but not lacking in substance, with a linear finish, balanced between yellow-fleshed fruit and iodised reminders.

90
Perlaia Vermentino ’24 – Bruni

The Bruni family’s company has become one of the most interesting productive realities in the Maremma wine scene thanks also to labels such as Perlaia, a Vermentino which, in the 2024 version, smells of linden flowers, citrus and flashes of exotic fruit. The palate is juicy and well contrasted. It also knows how to age well.

89
Kalendamaia Vermentino ’24 – Sant’Agnese

Located on the Piombino promontory, the company is strongly focused on Vermentino. The Kalendamaia is produced with different clones, Tuscan and Corsican: the result is a white that smells of juniper, grapefruit, white-fleshed fruits and lavender. On the palate it is savoury, well balanced, with a rich gustatory texture, slightly almondy on the finish.

88
Maremma Vermentino Il Marmato ’24 – Terre dell’Etruria

The Terre dell’Etruria cooperative winery operates with a well-conceived approach, almost as if it were a private winery. Only the production of selected members who best interpret the local varieties, including Vermentino. The Marmato ’24 has a fine and floral profile, with touches of aromatic herbs. The sip is pungent and pleasantly lively.