Wow, what a Riesling! Ten unmissable wines tasted in Germany

For a serial taster, international fairs like Prowein 2024 are a godsend. In Düsseldorf, we focused on the home turf, exploring the Mosel and Pfalz regions, with forays into Austrian territory as well. Before we set off, we note a detail that struck us also at Wine Paris just a few weeks ago: the spirits pavilion was significantly more crowded than the vast majority of areas. Lines formed near gin with white truffle and avocado vodka. Yet, with a bit of searching, one can taste authentic gems at the fair. Like these.

The top 10 Rieslings at Prowein 2024

Riesling Marienburg Fahrlay GG 2021 Clemens Busch

The Mosel that we love. There's a wonderful intersection of marine notes and measured sweetness in this cru proposed by Clemens Busch. On the palate, it dances with savory embroideries, notes of thyme and helichrysum, in a tense and dancing profile. A spicy imprint and great vitality characterize the finish.

Riesling Abtsberg GG 2022 Maximin Grünhaus

We continue among the dizzying slopes of the Mosel, some even over 70%. The wood, fermented in 1000-liter barrels obtained from the surrounding forests, doesn't release aromas but shapes a thin and pressing wine. Aromas of peach and orange blossoms. On the palate, it has a texture and a classier progression, pure, creamy. It gives a feeling of astonishing lightness and harmony.

Riesling Briedler Herzchen 2022 Immich - Batterieberg

A barrage of little hearts signed by Gernot Kollman. The vineyard in question is very close to that of Clemens Busch. It insists more on breadth than on verticality, with inviting scents of lemons and toasted almonds. The mouth has a hint of tannin that gives remarkable depth to the sip, with a long and contrasting finish. In Germany, it sells in wine shops for around 20 euros.

Riesling Von 1000 Alte Reben 2019 Weingut Sorentberg

We conclude the tour in the Mosel with a new project, featuring Tobias Treis and Ivan Giovanett, already technical director of Castelfeder in Alto Adige. Thousand is the number of vines, pre-phylloxera, that have been recovered and replanted on slate-rich soils. It plays on a rich horizontal gustatory phrasing, between creamy tones of chamomile, mango, and licorice. The salinity is vivid to say the least: extremely refined and complex. 600 bottles.

Risling Sierdingen Von Muschetalk 2023 Rebholz

Hans and Valentin Rebholz have an extra gear. Regularly, the line-up of this Palatinate cellar ranks among the best tastings at the fair. "The 2023 was a tricky year, we learned from the 2014 so we anticipated the harvest. For Riesling, it's a good vintage, less so for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir," says Hans. The Sierdigegen (Village level, to be clear) is a glove of the finest cloth. Fresh as a mountain waterfall, scented with anise and white melon. The epitome of medium weight.

Forster Pechstein 2022 Margarethenhof

"What's special about Pechstein? I like it because it's a volcanic, basalt territory. It's like a punch in the face, direct, powerful but at the same time refined. You can feel a particular acidity and that crust of salt and lemon together with naturally toasted sensations. And the joys it gives with aging," explains Yvonne Libelli. It's a Palatinate cru that fascinates us more and more each time. In this case, it starts slow on the nose before delivering a blow with overwhelming salinity, caper, and a long and precise finish.

Riesling Meerspinne GG 2018 Christmann

You can feel all the cold winds of Gimmeldingen, still in the Palatinate, in the glass. The cru is just right, we prefer it to the glorious Idig, usually more full-bodied and material. Meerspinne '18 plays like a foil, it's an ode to anise and white flowers, with a measured and distinctly mentholated range. It glides away pure and crisp, extremely fresh.

Riesling Kirchenstück GG 2022 Von Winning

The parcel of parcels, the most coveted and highest-priced plot in Germany. In total, just over 3 hectares in Forst, in the Palatinate, divided among many producers. The Von Winning style involves fermentation in tonneau where it matures for 18 months. The toasting is not subtle at all, but underneath lies a white that stomps, rich, powerful, fat, wonderful on the tactile level: it tastes of almond, saffron, and cedar. Impressive for concentration and density, but also movement.

Riesling Ruppertsbrger Reiterpfad 2022 Bassermann-Jordan

A tradition that we would like to import to our events. In the last hour of the day, at Prowein, in the German pavilion, it's magnum time. There's also music, beer (the local Schumaker Alt), and the producers bring out the large formats. In this case, we didn't take notes because the mood around was very lively. The producer is very serious, usually we prefer the opulence of Reiterpfad to the freshness of Dedeisheim, with less clayey and more calcareous soils.

Riesling This is not a Love Song 2021 Heidelinde & Markus Lang

We conclude in Austria, in the Kremstal area. After two excellent Grüner Veltliner (especially Dritter Akt), they present the Riesling. "The label name? Actually, it's the opposite but I didn't want to be too pathetic," Markus smiles. The vineyard is quite mature, with an average age of around 100 years, also here monstrous slopes. The wine is made in underground terracotta amphorae. More about the palate than the nose, taut like a violin string but rocky, tenacious, with hints of Mediterranean herbs and graphite. Like all the wines recounted here, it will be in full swing in 20 years.