Tre Bicchieri 2024: the best wines from Alto Adige awarded by Gambero Rosso

Sep 22 2023, 12:42
Bolzano’s producers stand out for their acute awareness as they confront new challenges. Here are the best wines from Alto Adige.

In the ever-evolving world of wine, where nothing remains the same from one year to the next, Bolzano’s producers stand out for their acute awareness as they confront new challenges. These challenges not only revolve around climate change or the sudden volatility of markets but most importantly, they center on managing the terrain, harnessing its potential, and transitioning from a production approach that caters to consumer demand to one that values the link between the many grape varietals grown and the plots best suited to them.

A. A. Chardonnay Kreuzweg Family Reserve 2019 - Castelfeder

A. A. Chardonnay V. Au Ris. 2019 - Tiefenbrunner

A. A. Gewürztraminer Auratus 2022 - Tenuta Ritterhof

A. A. Gewürztraminer Brenntal Ris. 2021 - Cantina Kurtatsch

A. A. Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2021 - Cantina Tramin

A. A. Lago di Caldaro Cl. Sup. Quintessenz 2022 - Cantina Kaltern

A. A. Lagrein Ris. 2020 - Untermoserhof - Georg Ramoser

A. A. Lagrein Taber Ris. 2021 - Cantina Bozen

A. A. Merlot Nussleiten Ris. 2019 - Castel Sallegg

A. A. Pinot Bianco Sanct Valentin 2021 - Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano

A. A. Pinot Bianco Sirmian 2021 - Nals Margreid

A. A. Pinot Grigio Giatl Ris. 2020 - Peter Zemmer

A. A. Pinot Nero Aton Ris. 2018 - Elena Walch

A. A. Pinot Nero Trattmann Ris. 2020 - Cantina Girlan

A. A. Santa Maddalena Cl. 2022 - Pfannenstielhof - Johannes Pfeifer

A. A. Sauvignon Lafóa 2021 - Cantina Colterenzio

A. A. Sauvignon Renaissance Ris. 2020 - Gump Hof - Markus Prackwieser

A. A. Spumante Brut M. Cl. Athesis 2020 - Kettmeir

A. A. Terlano Pinot Bianco Abtei Muri Ris. 2020 - Cantina Convento Muri-Gries

A. A. Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg Ris. 2020 - Cantina Terlano

A. A. Val Venosta Riesling V. Windbichel 2021 - Tenuta Unterortl - Castel Juval

A. A. Valle Isarco Grüner Veltliner Praepositus 2021 - Abbazia di Novacella

A. A. Valle Isarco Kerner Aristos 2022 - Cantina Produttori Valle Isarco

A. A. Valle Isarco Sylvaner R 2021 - Köfererhof - Günther Kerschbaumer

This renewed awareness has led smaller producers to specialize based on the disposition of their vineyards, a trend clearly reflected by urban wineries and the distant estates of the Eisack Valley. Similarly, cooperatives now reserve the varietals most adapted to their territory for their best wines. Thus, we see Girlan specializing in pinot noir, Tramin focusing on gewürztraminer and chardonnay, and Kurtatsch honing in on gewürztraminer and Bordeaux varietals. The land then plays its part, allowing vineyards to flourish from the valley floors at 220 meters to elevations surpassing 1000 meters in the higher regions. Hence we find areas like Oltradige, where many grape varieties find a premium habitat, blessed as they are with sun-drenched warm days followed by cool, breezy nights. Aided by a positive series of vintages (2020, 2021, and 2022), the entire province is performing well, with the crisp and fragrant whites of the Eisack and Vinschgau valleys resonating with the rich Lagreins of Bolzano.

Oltradige and Bassa Atesina spotlight pinot bianco, chardonnay, and sauvignon, making for wines that exude depth, elegance, and finesse. Meanwhile, Kettmeier once again proves that Alto Adige can also be a land of sparkling wines. Schiava, despite smaller amounts being cultivated year after year, is aptly represented in Santa Maddalena and Lago di Caldaro, the former leaning into richness and maturity, and the latter emphasizing finesse and agility.

A special note for pinot nero. In its best versions (and there are many) it has moved away from a fruity and approachable style to better express a deeper connection to its origins and the nuances the land bestows.

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