Where to have an aperitif in a Vineyard in Lombardy: the 8 best wineries chosen by Gambero Rosso

May 22 2024, 12:23
Although spring is slow to arrive, the days have lengthened, the weather is mild, and it is pleasant to be outdoors whenever possible, perhaps in an unusual setting, far from the city chaos, with a view of the vineyards

To satisfy the desire for an out-of-the-ordinary aperitif, just a few kilometres from the centre of Milan, there are various possible scenarios available, from Franciacorta to Oltrepò, to Valtellina. These are unique landscapes, areas where some of Italy's best wines are produced, especially sparkling wines. This fortunate condition is worth taking advantage of by tasting them right at the wineries. Here are the 8 best addresses.

Where to have an aperitif in a Vineyard in Lombardy


We are in the easternmost and greenest area of Franciacorta, in a model estate boasting almost half a century of activity under enlightened and solid family management, now carried on by Camilla, granddaughter of the estate's founders. Their Franciacorta Brut (including the Millesimato and Rosé versions) received 2 Glasses in the Vini d’Italia 2024 guide, indicating excellent work in both the vineyard and the cellar. By reservation, only on Fridays and only in the mild season, from 18:30 to 22:00, aperitifs are served to quench thirst and appetite, featuring the estate's sparkling wines (whether a single glass or an entire bottle) accompanied by various tasty treats. In this case, the price logically varies depending on how much and what is consumed.

Castelveder – Monticelli Brusati (BS) – via Belvedere, 4 – 030 652308 – www.castelveder.it


Since 1971, the Castoldi family has been at the helm of this estate, 17 hectares of vineyards not far from Lake Garda. From these, wines of great respect are produced, starting with Albis Dosaggio Zero Metodo Classico and San Martino della Battaglia Doc, both of which received 2 Glasses in the Vini d’Italia 2024 guide. The estate offers accommodation in 6 apartments, each different from the other and equipped with the most modern comforts, a wellness centre, and the opportunity to enjoy immersive experiences through guided tours of the cellar, tastings (don't miss the boat trip on the lake while sipping the estate's wines), dinners, and aperitifs both by the pool (obviously only in summer) and in the vineyard, the latter from May to September from 18:00 to 20:00 (reservation required). At a cost of 40 euros per person, house wine and snacks are included, along with romantic sunsets.

Cobue – Pozzolengo (BS) – loc. Cobue Sopra – 030 9108319 – www.cobue.it

Il Feudo Nico

This area is Oltrepò, and the passion is that of the Madama family: Edoardo, his wife Gabriella, and their enthusiastic young son Francesco. The 16 hectares of vineyards produce top-quality labels, foremost among them Maria Antonietta Pas Dosé 2018 and Maria Antonietta Brut Nature 2018, both awarded 2 Glasses in the Vini d’Italia 2024 guide. The estate, which also produces a good extra virgin olive oil from Leccino, Casaliva, and Pendolino cultivars, has offered excellent local cuisine in panoramic spaces since 1998, curated by Mrs Gabriella. By reservation on Fridays and Saturdays from 19:00, it is possible to enjoy an aperitif on the magnificent terrace with a view of the vineyards, featuring estate wines, delicious cured meats (personally handled by Edoardo), and tasty bites. The cost? Between 25 and 30 euros (excluding extras).

Il Feudo Nico – Mornico Losana (PV) – via San Rocco, 63 – 0383 892452 – www.ilfeudonico.it


A historic estate in the heart of Franciacorta, in a picturesque 16th-century village, has been in the hands of the Barboglio family since 1836, making it one of Italy's best sparkling wine producers. Among the various experiences to enjoy, approximately one Saturday per month (check the website and book in advance), there is the "Superlative Aperitif," set up under the covered loggia with a view of the vineyards from 17:00 to 19:30. The price – 35 euros per person – includes a tour of the cellars, a bottle for every couple of guests booked, along with a platter featuring a selection of cured meats, local cheeses, and vegetable frittatas, all accompanied by fresh bread, focaccia, and artisan breadsticks.

Mosnel – Passirone (BS) – frazione Camignano contrada Barboglio, 14 (ingresso da via G. C. Abba, 38) – 030 653117 – www.mosnel.com

Tenuta La Gatta – Triacca

Owned by the Triacca family since 1969, which also owns other estates in Tuscany (specifically in the Chianti area – where they also produce extra virgin olive oil – and in Maremma), this is an ancient, well-restored 16th-century monastery surrounded by the greenery of the vineyards, in the heart of Valtellina. Numerous initiatives welcome guests, from guided tours to picnics to lunches and dinners at the adjoining restaurant. On Fridays, from May to September, from 17:30 to 23:00, an apericena (aperitif-dinner) is served, based on local products and all the estate's wines (including the standout Sforzato di Valtellina San Domenico 2018 and Valtellina Superiore Prestigio 2019, both awarded 2 Glasses in the Vini d’Italia 2024 guide), at a cost of 25 euros per person. Reservations are also required here.

Tenuta La Gatta – Triacca – Bianzone (SO) – via La Gatta, 33 – 0342 701352 – www.triacca.com

Conti Thun

Twelve hectares of vineyards embodying a love for the land and sustainable agriculture, a project that has been ongoing since 2008, the year the first label was created. In the heart of Valtènesi, Ilona Thun and Vittorio Sommo cultivate native grape varieties, producing remarkable labels, starting with Chiaretto Micaela. Guests can stay in a charming relais with a pool, wellness area, and all comforts, but they can also shop at the wine shop, taste wines, and enjoy aperitifs (during the week from 18:00, on weekends from 9:00 am to evening), obviously by reservation. The cost depends on how many glasses of wine are tasted and what is chosen to accompany them (there is a dedicated menu of various snacks).

Conti Thun – Puegnago del Garda (BS) – via Masserino, 2 – 0365 651757 – www.contithun.com


Located on the eastern side of the Versa Valley in Oltrepò, it has been owned by the Fiori family since the early 1900s. The 15 hectares of estate vineyards, distributed between Santa Maria della Scala and Rovescala, produce respectable wines. Numerous activities are open to the public, from lunch at the agritourism restaurant (on weekends) to experiences among the vineyards (walks with tasting, lunches and dinners, picnics), including the dedicated aperitif offer, available only on Saturday evenings in the beautiful season, served from 19:00. For 20 euros per person, estate bubbles with local cured meats, plus a wine paired with a cold and hot starter. Extra dishes are also available if desired. Reservations are essential.

Valdamonte – Santa Maria della Versa (PV) – frazione Valdamonte, 58 – 333 8176256-334 78512225 – www.valdamonte.it

Conte Vistarino

Awarded 3 Glasses in the Vini d’Italia guide with the Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero Tavernetto 2020, the estate – which calls itself "the home of Pinot Nero" – has very ancient roots; it was indeed Count Giorgi di Vistarino who imported Pinot cuttings from France, thus starting sparkling wine production in Oltrepò. Among the various experiences offered by the estate, the "Aperi-Bike" stands out, ideal for nature and outdoor sports enthusiasts. Organized in collaboration with Ebike Travel of Montalto Pavese, it costs 65 euros per person and includes a tour of the cellar, bike and helmet rental, and a basket with the essentials for an aperitif, namely a bottle of wine and typical Oltrepò products.

Conte Vistarino – Rocca de’ Giorgi (PV) – frazione Villa Fornace, 8 – 0385 241171 – www.contevistarino.it

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